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#29 |
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I'm not sure what exactly causes the lights to flash but since I posted in that other thread from a year ago I have had the light flash during autocross but I didn't notice any other affects. I do not pedal dance, just hold the button for 3 seconds. Maybe it's different on the track or with better tires etc. As far as I can tell from personal experience, the light just flashes sometimes during slides but doesn't intervene
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#30 | ||
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THAT was the topic of the thread. You clearly believed (incorrectly) that it would NOT respond when off. Have you changed your opinion on that matter or not? I merely pointed out facts, and used you as an example of a person who does not understand the system. YOU started with the insults first NOT me. |
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#31 |
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Maybe there is a difference between the model years/ software?
The only twin I got out of shape a lot was a BRZ I co-drove at Dixie a few years ago. The car's owner had an alignment shop set the car up with toe-out on the rear and the throttle was almost unusable with the back end kicking out like the car had 800hp. He got the alignment fixed between day 1 and day 2, and the car was great then. However, neither of us noticed any blinking lights in real time or on the over-the-shoulder video we reviewed afterwards. |
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#32 | |
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#33 |
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While remaining on topic: I have had the system disabled with the 3 second button press and had it come back on and spin the car in the snow/ice.
During the spin, the lights were blinking and when the car came to a stop the VSC & TC lights were OFF (meaning re-enabled) This thread has others' experiences about this topic (and more examples of Ashikabi being a prick): http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107910 BTW - on my car you CAN disable VSC&TC when moving at any speed, while others have questioned this. Just a data point for noting differences. |
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#34 | |
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#35 |
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Mine can be disabled at any speed as well. Although when moving, nothing happens for a few seconds...then both lights come on. When stopped, the TCS light comes on the moment you press down and the other light comes on after a few seconds of holding it down.
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#36 |
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Spinning the tires won`t light it up, Spinning out won`t light it up, but if you flick it aggressively or get bumps while turning and the inside rear wheel loses enough traction, it will dab the brakes to activate the rear diff like a limited slip... Only it would be better not to sometimes. The torsen works if both tires have grip, if one gets lifted, it works as an open diff. To counter this, the system applies brakes to the wheel with no grip to give the other wheel the power and also lights up the traction light on the dash. It can cause so weird problems I imagine at track speeds, and I think the better the tires, the more often it happens as it unloads the inside wheels even more. I get it to blink at 3000 rpm at 1/4 throttle on a street I turn on to everyday because of humps crossing the road.
I haven`t had a single problem while autocrossing with the 3 seconds button press, but they are 2nd gear courses only. |
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#37 | |
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. I have noticed it happen with many others on youtube
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2013 silver frs, injen intake, agency power header, hks exhaust, no kitties, ecutek tune
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#38 | |
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Your car stayed relatively straight that whole run. In relation to front and back wheels. If your tail was whipping out wveey corner like 45 +degrees i have a feeling shed have blinked at ya
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2013 silver frs, injen intake, agency power header, hks exhaust, no kitties, ecutek tune
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#39 | |
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I totally get what Toyota/Subaru were addressing here. I may actually be thankful for it in some conditions. If/when it becomes a problem, I will look at alternatives that do not involve an elaborate routine, and disabling EBD. (I think I can remove the rear sway bar in CS) If my car gets out 45 degrees, the run is already shot...and it's my own fault, before any electronic response the car might have. |
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