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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Drives: 1993 Impreza w/ WRX Swap + FWD!
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Uh, my Strano swaybar never clucked, nor did any of the Whitelines or other swaybars I've had on my previous Subaru's.
If there was a clunk, it was usually an install issue or an endlink failure of some kind. |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Drives: BRZ Limited
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I want three months with no noise, had my worried when I started hearing it. But I didn't tighten up with the wheels lefted. About to start working on the fix now! Thanks people!
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#17 | |
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Alexandrino_Auto
Join Date: Apr 2014
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Quote:
As has already been mentioned, you need to have the full weight of the car on the suspension before you tighten down the sway bar. Everything should be bolted together loose. Put the wheels on and put it on ramps and then you can tighten everything up. The only other way to do it is to put all LCAs on jack stands, but it's not very safe, and if the car isn't flat/balanced, you'll have the same problem as before. If your nuts are backing off, they need to be replaced. Sway bars use nylock nuts for a reason. Sway bars and the endlinks are under constant stress and rotation. You need a good locking nut to stop them from loosening up.
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#18 | |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Drives: 2015 Subaru BRZ
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Quote:
I was getting clunking with the whileline end links until I pulled off one of the jam nuts. I tightened that side all the way down, used the other side for alignment and they've been quiet ever since. |
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#19 |
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Mountain Runner
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited 6MT
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Consider changing your bushings out or regreasing them. My swaybars clunked like crazy and my friend (suspension tech for a Porsche Cup team) took one look at it and immediately said to replace the bushings. Worked like a charm. They were worn to the point where they had a bit of play.
Last edited by Keenercarguy; 03-01-2016 at 05:36 AM. |
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#20 |
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Senior Citizen
Join Date: May 2012
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If you have adjustable endlinks, check the preload on the sway bar from the endlinks.
If they are too long or too short, they can make noise. On a level surface, put the end of the car you want to check on ramps. Check by unbolting the endlink from the bar, then try to slide the endlink out. If you get resistance, then you have preload. Shorten or lengthen the endlink until the threaded portion can move in and out of the sway bar hole with minimum or no resistance. Repeat for other side. Tighten up and your done. Make sure your endlink adjustment lock nuts are tightened too. GL! Last edited by simpleisbest; 03-01-2016 at 11:08 AM. |
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#21 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: whiteout FR-S
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I have the hotchkis rear sway bars and I love them, no noise at all. I'm getting a clunking noises after I upgrade the inner and outer tie rods though
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