Phantom FTS Electric Supercharger Owners Thread

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by PantsDants

I've got the lightened compressor wheel and updated controller without the drag reduction hose thing, so I think that's V2?

For yours you would need to cap the .5 pack connectors and just use the main lines.


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[stevo585]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

For yours you would need to cap the .5 pack connectors and just use the main lines.


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Exactly what I did. I have the 1.5 dump wires as well. The plastic sheet with the connectors you won't need that at all.

[l0aded]

Originally Posted by DAEMANO

Oh definitely triple check the 3 connectors going to the compressor. I have them connected, very gently crimped (i mean GENTLY), then taped individually to seal, then zip tied so there is nothing pulling on them.

Interesting... what batteries are you on? Some logging will easily confirm/deny su dyno de culo. Post em when you get a chance, that'll be valuable info.

I tried crimping down the wires and it didn't do much but they were pretty right to begin with. I began experimenting seeing what happens when I remove the colored wires one by one but stopped immediately when it started making funny noises. Most likely it is not an issue with the connection at that specific point.

I am using "2x Big Crank ETX16 Battery", after seeing my purchase order it's been about 1 year and 1 month on these with a majority on Procede. I'll see if I can get some logs and voltage readings tomorrow (forgot my voltmeter at work). The motor itself sounds OK without any unbalanced sounds so hopefully it's not the issue (https://goo.gl/photos/KfBUP2WJtu7QsgXz5).

A few questions for owners/electrical experts,
1) When the car is off and you turn on the ESC, does it do anything like this? (https://goo.gl/photos/M8SqymBo2zzTmxEHA). On mine, it dropped down to 26 briefly and returned to 28 while it was still spinning (full throttle still on). After releasing the pedal, it jumped up to 30 before beginning to descend to the ~28.3!

2) How does the recharging work? Seems like the voltage returns to ~28 regardless if the car is on or off. I assume voltage =/= battery "power"

3) How do the 3 colored wires work? Are they all power wires powering parts of the ESC motor? I recall when one of my wires was loose, the ESC would spin with a terrible unbalanced sound.

And thank you to the community for the support. .

[Target70]

Originally Posted by l0aded

A few questions for owners/electrical experts,
1) When the car is off and you turn on the ESC, does it do anything like this? (https://goo.gl/photos/M8SqymBo2zzTmxEHA). On mine, it dropped down to 26 briefly and returned to 28 while it was still spinning (full throttle still on). After releasing the pedal, it jumped up to 30 before beginning to descend to the ~28.3!

2) How does the recharging work? Seems like the voltage returns to ~28 regardless if the car is on or off. I assume voltage =/= battery "power"

3) How do the 3 colored wires work? Are they all power wires powering parts of the ESC motor? I recall when one of my wires was loose, the ESC would spin with a terrible unbalanced sound.

And thank you to the community for the support. .

1. nope, mine doesn't do that. I have the switch so proceed may be different. Mine sits at about 28.5v when turned on but car not started. Switch pushed drops down to about 24v with a slow decrease in voltage as I hold it. Release throttle it instantly jumps back up to about 27v and slowly increases for a few seconds(even with car off).

2. I believe* the voltage drop on the gauge is due to the potential difference between the + and - terminals being "shorted" through the motor. As the current flows, the electrons even out(become more equal) between the two polls of the battery. When you let off the the switch, the path between the polls opens. When the path opens and the electrons have no way to even out between the polls, the acid in the battery slowly strip the electrons from one poll and move them into the other, until the battery returns to it's maximum voltage, however now it's capacity is now slightly depleted. (note my last electronics class was almost 15 years ago so I may be wrong)

3. the motor is a 3 phase motor, think of it like a geo metro (3 cylinder) motor. If you have a bad connection on one of the wires, it is like the engine trying to run on only 2 cylinders, which will run fine for 2/3rds of the rotation, but will have no power for the last 1/3rd of the rotation and only continue to spin due to inertia, until it reaches phase 1 again.

[l0aded]

Originally Posted by Target70

1. nope, mine doesn't do that. I have the switch so proceed may be different. Mine sits at about 28.5v when turned on but car not started. Switch pushed drops down to about 24v with a slow decrease in voltage as I hold it. Release throttle it instantly jumps back up to about 27v and slowly increases for a few seconds(even with car off).

2. I believe* the voltage drop on the gauge is due to the potential difference between the + and - terminals being "shorted" through the motor. As the current flows, the electrons even out(become more equal) between the two polls of the battery. When you let off the the switch, the path between the polls opens. When the path opens and the electrons have no way to even out between the polls, the acid in the battery slowly strip the electrons from one poll and move them into the other, until the battery returns to it's maximum voltage, however now it's capacity is now slightly depleted. (note my last electronics class was almost 15 years ago so I may be wrong)

3. the motor is a 3 phase motor, think of it like a geo metro (3 cylinder) motor. If you have a bad connection on one of the wires, it is like the engine trying to run on only 2 cylinders, which will run fine for 2/3rds of the rotation, but will have no power for the last 1/3rd of the rotation and only continue to spin due to inertia, until it reaches phase 1 again.

Thanks that was extremely helpful. It seems like the ESC activates for a second or two and and then hits a wall and cannot draw any more power. There is still enough juice to keep the momentum of the turbine spinning but it can no longer accelerate any faster. I feel more confident in the belief that there is something causing increased resistance (maybe corrosion on the terminals) or more likely a bad battery. The voltage in a bad battery would still read similar, especially if paired with a healthy one, but wouldn't be able to hold a charge which seems to be the issue here.

[KoolBRZ]

New tunes are now available for A00D, A01D, B00D, B01D, D00D, and 900D CAL ID's. I call this latest tune "The Shredder" because of what it does to my back tires. AT's need much more consistent power, more like two power peaks instead of one. I've been working hard to get a consistent power band for the taller geared AT's to use. This is a great tune in my AT with a UEL header and open exhaust, even with the ESC turned off. It's a lot more fun with it turned on though.

Here is a zipped folder. I also included the "cool" procede map that the tune is made to work with. It will need extraction before you can use the tune though.

PS. Don't ask me for all the changes made, there have been too many to count.

[shaynek]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

New tunes are now available for A00D, A01D, B00D, B01D, and D00D CAL ID's. I call this latest tune "The Shredder" because of what it does to my back tires. AT's need much more consistent power, more like two power peaks instead of one. I've been working hard to get a consistent power band for the taller geared AT's to use. This is a great tune in my AT with a UEL header and open exhaust, even with the ESC turned off. It's a lot more fun with it turned on though.

Here is a zipped folder. I also included the "cool" procede map that the tune is made to work with. It will need extraction before you can use the tune though.

PS. Don't ask me for all the changes made, there have been too many to count.

So you can have the ESC off and it won't cause an issue even at red line?

[KoolBRZ]

A mighty serious issue, yes. Losing my patience with how long it takes to get there.

[mike_ekim1024]

A few questions that aren't covered in the Info section of the web site. Btw, the FAQ says "In development"

I understand it can be run without a tune, because the stock tune will always fix AFR. One, is that safe? Can it go too lean for a split second? Second, if you do get a tune, how would you incorporate the phantom?

I understand it uses a two state switch to enable the phantom at 75% and at 100%. Is there any plans to connect to the CAN BUS to read throttle data for a smoother delivery?

And a general comment.. It doesn't look too complicated to install, but the polished look of it is not quite there. I'd like to keep the stock batteries in place, mount new ones and maybe split off the alternator? And enclose the motor in a housing so it looks more packaged. I'm a fan of "stock looking" (no random cables and things that look out of place), but that's just my taste.

I've always been interested in the project, and have been watching from the start. I hope the development continues and gets even better!

[KoolBRZ]

There is a way to tap into the throttle. it's called the procede controller and it's mappable. As far as wires go, they are pretty hidden, but the power drops drastically the longer they are, so they're kept pretty short. as far as trunk batteries, I'm working on it, it's a great place to stick the car battery while using the usual battery tray to hold more batteries for the supercharger . You see, I need to relocate my car battery before I can use the 4 low-resistance quick-dump audio batteries I got. As far as running it without a tune well, it's just going to make a wooshy noise when it comes on, and your car's going to slow down. The stock tune can't handle pressure. It doesn't know what to do with it. It is designed to handle varying amounts of vacuum. There are more than a few tables to change in order for it to handle pressure, so running it without a tune is going to be disappointing to say the least.

[WNDSRFR]

I wonder what tune silent runner is using on his '93 Camry?

[mike_ekim1024]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

As far as running it without a tune well, it's just going to make a wooshy noise when it comes on, and your cars going to slow down. The stock tune can't handle pressure. It doesn't know what to do with it. It is designed to handle varying amounts of vacuum. There are more than a few tables to change in order for it to handle pressure, so running it without a tune is going to be disappointing to say the least.

Are you referring to the Procede, or the ESC in general? I get a different vibe when reading the Pantom site:

"The Phantom FTS works with MAF fuel controlled engines, the more air into the engine the more fuel it injects. The Phantom FTS is engineered to work within the limits of the ECU, as a result there is no tuning required."

Just curious...

[l0aded]

Update: I took everything apart and measured the voltages of my two batteries. After resting about an hour, one measured 12.60 and the other 12.53. When combined (reading from the two terminals of the large black and red cable), my batteries read 25.17 which makes sense since they are in series.

Video of voltmeter full throttling (car on, engine off): https://goo.gl/photos/yfWGG1KY9udLJY4o8
It goes from 27.91 to only 25.25

Not really sure what to make of this. The resting voltage of the batteries is about right on the money (12.6). The discharge, for whatever reason, isn't causing a large enough voltage drop. I'll see if I can bring both batteries in to Autozone to definitively rule out batteries.

[WNDSRFR]

I took some measurements to compare to. Keep in mind that I have the original 1.5 dump batteries and the original starter battery. And my starter battery is getting weak. About every forth time I start the car, my radio turns off. I never turn it off so it should always be on when the car starts. but apparently it doesn't have enough power for both the starter and the radio, so the radio is sacrificed.
key on-engine off---Dump pack 27.02, Starter---13.0
key on-engine off-ESC engaged---less than 23.0
at idle---Dump pack 27.8, Starter---14.3
3000 RPM---Dump pack 28.0, Starter 14.4

The Phantom meter meanwhile stays at 28.3 the whole time except for when the ESC is engaged when it drops below 23.0.

It looks like your blower is just not drawing the proper amount of current for whatever reason. I would check all the connections again. And if you have an amp clamp....no never mind that would only work on AC.