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Old 11-23-2015, 08:10 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by puma View Post
we have the same problem on our race car with RCE tarmac2 (KW) and stock end link. We had to grind as much material as possible on the endlink so it doesn't touch the body of the car. They have been holding on fine so far for the whole season.
Alright thanks guys, I have Whiteline adjustable endlinks on order hoping they'll be slimmer on the strut-side for more clearance, I'll let you guys know how it goes.

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Originally Posted by solidONE View Post
how much lower than stock are you guys?
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:57 PM   #30
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^ Neither of your cars seem "too low," but it's hard to say especially when you're trying to eyeball it while they're both using larger diameter wheels than stock.
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Old 11-24-2015, 08:57 AM   #31
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we are not running really low, i would say 1-1,5" lower than stock

I have checked the whitelines and they are pretty much the same thickness as stock so i am afraid these won't work for you either.
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:16 AM   #32
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I have exactly the same problem. Lowered 1" on Swift Sport springs. Have RCE camber plates up front. When I maxed out camber at -3.2, I seriously damaged the wheel well with the endlinks. After backing off the camber to -2.6, everything seemed fine. After driving for couple weeks I checked again yesterday and my driver's side is completely fine, however I can see some rubbing marks on the passenger side. I confirmed with RCE that camber plates were installed correctly so no clue why this is happening.

Any suggestions for a low profile endlink?

I also started hearing some noise when I turn the wheel lock to lock, also from passenger side. Almost like smth is stuck and is forced to move, making tuck, tuck, tuck sound lol. Possible that 1" lowering is too much for stock endlinks?
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:37 AM   #33
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I have this same issue, no solutions yet other than running less camber. Searched for lower profile end links but no results. The washers on the stock end links seemed pretty thick, I'm wondering if removing them or replace them with thinner washers might just help a slight bit?
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:01 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by e1_griego View Post
I'm hitting on both sides I think. And I'm going to a shorter and lower profile setup. Will post after it works. I didn't buy off the shelf frs stuff.
Did you ever find a solution that eliminated the endlink clearance issue? I'm running MCS singles, too, and would appreciate the guidance.

Last edited by RJasonKlein; 08-12-2016 at 01:01 AM. Reason: Corrected a typographical error.
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Old 08-12-2016, 02:34 AM   #35
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I went with shorter whiteline endlinks. I think my 17x9 +42 wheels with 245/40/17 tires may catch on the lock here and there, but the 17x9 +35 with 255/40 setup caught pretty regularly.

Narrower tire seemed to fix most of it.
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Old 09-26-2016, 08:19 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e1_griego View Post
I went with shorter whiteline endlinks. I think my 17x9 +42 wheels with 245/40/17 tires may catch on the lock here and there, but the 17x9 +35 with 255/40 setup caught pretty regularly.

Narrower tire seemed to fix most of it.
Did you go with the KLC180-195??
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:39 PM   #37
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Yup.
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:44 PM   #38
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i have adjustable end links as well. the driver side is adjusted wrong and i never fixed it. i rubs 2. probably not good for it but what ever
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Old 09-28-2016, 01:43 AM   #39
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My rub on the sway and inner wall nearly full lock , -3 camber , Tein SRC , super pro 20mm front sway , megun tie rod . Rubbing since I have the tie rod ...


I thought it wasn't that bad , just leave it like that over a year .
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:02 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dango1 View Post
Seen this happen once. Coils were installed wrong left/right. Caused too much castor and endlink to make contact. Maybe check that?
Has anyone with rubbing actually checked this? The front struts are definitely not symmetrical, and putting the left on the right could cause issues.
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