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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#15 |
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If you really want to follow manufacturer's recommended shift points for maximum gas efficiency, you can turn on the gear display / shift indicator...
With car OFF - hit the "ODO/TRIP" button until you see "G-off", press and hold the "ODO/TRIP" button until it says "G-on". Now when you drive, you will see the gear you're currently in displayed as a number, and little triangles pointing up when it's time to shift for maximum fuel efficiency. With that being said, I gave up watching for those little triangles. Spent too much time staring at instruments and not enough time having fun. Don't worry about slipping the clutch to get smooth N-1-2 shifts, the clutch can take it - just take it easy if you start noticing a burning smell. IMO 1st gear is only good for 3 things: 1) Stalking people with loaded shopping carts heading back to their cars 2) Starting from a stop 3) Parking on a hill Oh. I forgot one more thing. 4) Burnouts. OH WAIT. 5) Figure 8's. |
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#16 |
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Getting into first should not make any grinding noise... but if you are still rolling, it will be very hard. I usually leave it in 2nd as long as the car is moving, but if you want to drop it to first, tap the throttle to get some revs, and don`t force the shifter, it should go in pretty smooth when you get the revs right.
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#17 |
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I roll through the gears stopping even if I'm coasting... I want to be able to move again in a pinch!
I also revved past 4k during break in, but not for extended periods. More important is varied rpm, I think. And, lugging the engine will be harder on it than a few moments above 4k. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to cjd For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (09-10-2015) |
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#18 |
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Depending on your climate first and second gear can be pretty crunchy. A good fluid swap helps leaps and bounds with this issue. Being very deliberate with your shifts for the first 5-10 minutes on the road is mandatory even after a good redline, or your brand of choice fluid change. after the break in it will get smoother as part of the initial break in period is the gears creating a good seating face by eating into each other. The odd noise you hear when you put it into first from a stop is just drive line slap, if it concerns you then the best way to minimize it is going N-2-1 from a stop before actually starting, as it is less abrupt on the slap for some reason, but in my eyes wont help the longevity of any parts.
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#19 |
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I agree with the Fakestig. I always use the sequence N-2-1 when going into 1st. From a standstill .... I do this. I never shift into 1st to slow the car down. As I approach a stop ... I shift down, but never into 1st. The N-2-1 seems to work best for this balky 1st gear.
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#20 | |
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#21 | |
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#22 |
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All these simultaneous tasks of worrying about clutch position, looking at revs while shifting, wondering if you are in the right gear etc. is going to further complicate your manual learning process.
Take it easy and get used to the car first. Once you and the car gets comfortable with each other, you will know what is the best to do based on the situation. Enjoy the learning experience |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to berkbrzfan For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (09-10-2015) |
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#23 |
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Commit the engagement point to muscle memory, and it will become second nature (to the point that you won't need the handbrake except for the steepest inclines).
Just get out there and drive. Incidentally, the whole break-in thing is one where there's a split in opinions. Some have advocated a hard break-in instead of the traditional method.... Ymmv |
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#24 | ||
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I say again. When I teach my grandson to drive this car there are two things I will be doing: I will be taping over the tach. The rev limiter will protect the car on the up shifts and knowing what your RPMs are if you badly screw up a down shift just gives you the info for the service guys. Learn from the onset when to shift by sounds and feel not by watching a gauge. I will tape a tack to the top of the shifter. None of this grab the knob F&F style and manhandle it through the gears. He will learn to lightly push and pull the lever with his finger tips and palm butt or bleed all over my car one or the other. There is no big mystery to driving MT even though some would like people to think there is. There is also no one set method that is used all the time (I do not drive the same at WOT as I do in traffic) but there are some very basic skills that all drivers need to have.
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Tcoat For This Useful Post: | daiheadjai (09-10-2015), strat61caster (09-10-2015) |
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#25 | |
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#26 |
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A few questions for the people who say don't downshift to first...
Engine starts to bog down as soon as you get under 10mph, so why would you let the engine lug around instead of downshifting? If you're doing a spirited canyon run and you're coming to 15mph corners you're not going to have any power to exit the corner in second. First is the way to go here. So my main question is, why is it so bad to downshift into 1st? |
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#27 | |
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Last edited by GotMunchies?; 09-11-2015 at 02:20 PM. |
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#28 |
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If I'm at 7 or 8 mph I clutch in and gas it up back to speed. I have no idea if this is correct but I'd rather slightly wear the clutch then damage my tranny or lug
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