A discussion on improving ride quality

[NissanGuy]

Originally Posted by solidONE

That's a good way to assess ride quality, but... I've seen some chicks put on makeup in some really adverse road conditions. I'm talking while they're in the drivers seat steering with their kneecaps, watching the road, the vanity mirror, and eating breakfast simultaneously like it ain't no thing. I suppose these girls aren't the ones you'd pick to do the test with.

I usually put a paper cup of water in the cup holder...

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

My litmus test?

Will ladies in the car complain that the car is bumpy? Can a lady apply makeup in the passenger seat? Can I text while driving on the highway?

Do not try at home obviously; all tests conducted by professionals on a closed course.

Haha!

How long do the JRZ's last? Would I need yearly rebuilds on a daily driven car? How about the Tein SRC's?

Trying to figure out what route to go that won't leave me with the car on blocks for a few weeks every year while the shocks are rebuilt.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Haha!

How long do the JRZ's last? Would I need yearly rebuilds on a daily driven car? How about the Tein SRC's?

Trying to figure out what route to go that won't leave me with the car on blocks for a few weeks every year while the shocks are rebuilt.

Not sure about the Tein SRC's but I have read multiple accounts of JRZ's (and the likes of MCS, Ohlins, Penske) going 5 years or more without a rebuild and still working like new

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Haha!

How long do the JRZ's last? Would I need yearly rebuilds on a daily driven car? How about the Tein SRC's?

Trying to figure out what route to go that won't leave me with the car on blocks for a few weeks every year while the shocks are rebuilt.

General rule of thumb is inspect the dampers at 30k, and then every 15k after.

If the dampers aren't working, you'll know.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Not sure about the Tein SRC's but I have read multiple accounts of JRZ's (and the likes of MCS, Ohlins, Penske) going 5 years or more without a rebuild and still working like new

The problem with looking at number of years is that it doesn't tell you anything about how much the car is driven. I've heard some motorsports quality dampers are only good for a couple thousand miles before needing a rebuild. Fine for a race car, totally useless for a daily driven car.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

General rule of thumb is inspect the dampers at 30k, and then every 15k after.

If the dampers aren't working, you'll know.

Perfect, sounds like they last long enough for me.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by wparsons

The problem with looking at number of years is that it doesn't tell you anything about how much the car is driven. I've heard some motorsports quality dampers are only good for a couple thousand miles before needing a rebuild. Fine for a race car, totally useless for a daily driven car.



Perfect, sounds like they last long enough for me.

I should also add the JRZs typically mentioned here are considered entry level dampers...

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I should also add the JRZs typically mentioned here are considered entry level dampers...

The RS1's correct? I havent heard anything past their RS Pro for their clubsport damper. Is that equal to a penske double adjustable race shock or a Öhlins TTX?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

The RS1's correct? I havent heard anything past their RS Pro for their clubsport damper. Is that equal to a penske double adjustable race shock or a Öhlins TTX?

RS1/RS/RS-Pro are JRZ's entry level dampers.

The RS-Pro are roughly equivalent to a Penske/Ohlins TTX; the behavior of all 3 are different due to the construction and how exactly they work internally. The TTX is technically a twin tube, but only on a very basic level.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I should also add the JRZs typically mentioned here are considered entry level dampers...

Should I just have my direct deposit set to go to CSG now???

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I should also add the JRZs typically mentioned here are considered entry level dampers...

Purely for curiosity's sake because I certainly don't need them for daily driving, but how much would a set of JRZ 14 31's go for? Are they even made for this car, or would it have to be a custom order?

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

RS1/RS/RS-Pro are JRZ's entry level dampers.

The RS-Pro are roughly equivalent to a Penske/Ohlins TTX; the behavior of all 3 are different due to the construction and how exactly they work internally. The TTX is technically a twin tube, but only on a very basic level.

Assuming you've ridden on all three, which would be the best for this platform, high spec monotube or high spec twintube? it sounds like most of the top end guys go with the monotube style, why did Ohlins choose the TTX as a twintube?

how would you categorize them?

[Kostamojen]

I'm here for the Squirrel Tuned Suspension™

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Assuming you've ridden on all three, which would be the best for this platform, high spec monotube or high spec twintube? it sounds like most of the top end guys go with the monotube style, why did Ohlins choose the TTX as a twintube?

how would you categorize them?

I have not yet experienced all three on this specific platform.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Purely for curiosity's sake because I certainly don't need them for daily driving, but how much would a set of JRZ 14 31's go for? Are they even made for this car, or would it have to be a custom order?

They do not exist for this platform, but they're typically 15k +-1200