A discussion on improving ride quality
 

So what have you tried? Please share your mods.

I'd also like to take a moment to note the following:
One of the biggest flaws with the online world of suspension reviews is that the person reviewing can only speak to their universe and their experiences. Please don't tell me the KW V3s ride comfortably because they are firm at any setting and also a bit jarring on rough roads. Same with the Bilstein B14s in varying degrees. Even in stock form the car is still firm.

Before I throw in the towel, I'm hoping to ask the community for ideas on areas I may not have thought about.

FYI: I've gone thru 5 different suspension setups in the BRZ. With my limited research, I've concluded that the rear suspension travel is lacking (i.e. too short) after exhausting all the options.

I'm ready to install offset rear LCAs that increase rear damper stroke by 20mm. I'm not sure that's enough and would also cause the need to screw around with spring heights and potentially helper springs.

I like to be around 15-20mm lowered which isn't asking for a lot I thought. I recently rode in a stock BRZ and realized the ride isn't really too much more comfy even in a stock car. Its been so long I had forgotten that..

What are you currently using? Whilst I agree that comfortable isn't the right word to describe the ride on these cars (let alone on coilovers regardless of brand), people's perception of a comfortable ride would vary from yours. I guess my question is, what sort of ride quality are you chasing in order to be deemed acceptable your liking?

Raceseng 2 inch rear tops and some higher end coilovers will be your best bet if you want something really comfy.

um......sounds like you bought the wrong car? Nameless was using a longer travel rally setup you could try that but it wont get you lower. If you drop 20mm and add 20mm more suspension travel you will need to raise the hood up to drive around. Kidding, but seriously you will have clearance issues all around if you increase stroke much at all. Have you done anything with the subframe to correct suspension geometry in the rear after lowing? manji is working on a kit to fix that.

So, you asked for looks and comfort. Don't care about grip/handling, just put some very soft springs... but you will bottom out all the time if you don't take it easy... There are no miracles, you can't both cut suspension travel and ask for more. Perhaps some adaptive dampers can do the job, or even air ride, but that remains a compromise.

I use stock suspension, 27lbs* 16" forged rims with soft-sidewalled tyres. Rides great on bad roads and keeps the tires tied to the asphalt on bumpy roads up to the grip limit with excellent grip feedback. I even think it looks good, but most people don't share that opinion....

*that is for the rim AND tire together...

I'd go talk to Robispec. I think he had tophats that increased rear travel by about 20mm. Then you could keep the stock stroke while lowering. The car does have relatively cheap rear suspension, so you're never going to get perfection. Maybe someone can raise the rear spring perches and give you custom-valved Ohlins on stock spring rates. Or Penskes. Maybe the coming Manji tubular rear crossmember so you can raise suspension up for more clearance. Just be prepared to pay. The car is not a 911. It's a cheap sports car. It has limits.

We we understood your goals for the car. The car rides great with respect to how well it handles, clearly the engineering goal of this car was not a cushy ride, I really would have gone with a different platform if this car is too stiff.

Euro cars tends to handle well and still provide good ride quality.

If you find it too firm stock, buy a Camry. Sports cars ride firmer because they need to for handling, not because they want it to feel like a race car.

I can only speak to my experience with stock suspension and RCE yellow springs.. I find the progressive compression of the RCE's makes the ride smoother. The car feels a tad firmer on small bumps, but it never hits the bump stops for those big jarring bumps like it used to on stock springs.

V3's are not that firm... Good ride is ALL in the valving. If dialed in right they ride perfect. I realize that it's all subjective but still. You don't buy a sports car and expect it to ride like a luxury car. I mean they have small rattles the day you get them. Buy something properly vavled for the rates you want or sit on a pillow?

I should have clarified further. The front damping has been fine. It's the rear I feel has a very short stroke and can be improved.

I've looked into the higher top mounts by increasing the height of the tophats. The problem with this setup is you're not really increasing overall stroke. You're simply repositioning the damper piston in a more optimal spot as to not bottom it out within the damper. You spring height and motion ratio stays the same. While this will help a little bit i'm not sure yet it will solve the problem.

I've tried the following
* Stock BRZ
* Stock with RCE Yellows
* Eibach Multi-Pro R1
* RS*R Sports-i
* KW V3
* Bilstein B14

I've also driven a car with Tein SRCs. Although better it still felt like a lack of travel when hitting the big bumps. I've also considered Ohlins R&T but they appear to be firm as well.

Basically, I don't think this is a damping problem. It's a short stroke/damper travel issue.

I have not read if people have experienced good results from these various offset LCAs and was hoping to hear from the community before proving my theory.

I'm an old guy relatively. I've owned (and tracked) several vehicles including an S2000 AP1, AP2, 911 930 Turbo, E36 M3, GSXR750, CBR600, NSX and even a Pantera and 66 Chevelle. I'm familiar with basic suspension tuning (but not an expert).

What else have you guys done?

BTW... this car is ok on normal roads. But my commute in downtown LA requires 16 miles of driving on Olympic or Pico blvd. For those who know these roads...I know you feel sorry for me now. The thing is.. my NSX, E36 M3, and S2000 take these roads perfectly fine. The BRZ suspension must just suck in these situations.

It's both travel and valving. You do still need a better quality damper.

On roads with a continuous stretch of broken pavement, valving is right there with travel in terms of importance. Poor valving can't handle long stretches of jumbled pavement.

I think you need a ride in a car with Ohlins, or JRZ RS1 which have tons of travel.

I live in downtown Baltimore and the roads are crap. Perpetual construction, huge heaves and dips, manhole covers that stick up a few inches, cobblestone streets, sharp edges, etc. It's terrible.

But it's tolerable in a stock BRZ for me and better than some other cars. With KWs or our RCE T2s it's still fine except for some of the really sharp big bumps, which still aren't completely awful. With Ohlins it's a little better. JRZ a step better than that.

- Andy

Haha this made me laugh. I've driven down Olympic before and you're absolutely right, it's got some rough patches.

Good thread topic btw.

Also wanted to say...yes it is definitely tough to get a high quality damper in a package with mild spring rates and plenty of travel. The market just isn't set up to offer that at a decent price. The high end damper market is geared towards race set-ups with high spring rates and not a ton of travel needed. Yes you can do it with an expensive custom set-up. That would definitely work well if you can stand to spend that much.

The Ohlins do kind of split the difference. They are a very good quality damper with medium spring rates. Not a huge amount of travel, but not bad.

I think that a custom valved for comfort Bilstein HD set-up would be great on stock springs or our RCE Yellows. More travel would be helpful but a BMW M3 doesn't have a ton of travel either.

- Andy