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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#15 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Emmanuel Baako: NASA-Southeast Race Control & NASA Florida Race Director
![]() RaceCar:2013 Scion FR-S #986 NASA PTD || Tow:2011 Dodge Durango R/T ![]() |
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#16 |
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But not starting with FI so will be stock MA and will need to move up as needed
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#17 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
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You asked for suspension advice. Here's mine. Read through the forums, any well received coilovers setup will meet your needs. You've got some time before you bother with anything around 5k. RCE T2, Ohlins, KW v3, Mann Engineering, TEINs, etc. There are tons to choose from. Just pick one. Unless you just pay for a racing school, you won't be racing for at least a year. In that time, you'll learn enough to make a more informed decision on your own.
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Emmanuel Baako: NASA-Southeast Race Control & NASA Florida Race Director
![]() RaceCar:2013 Scion FR-S #986 NASA PTD || Tow:2011 Dodge Durango R/T ![]() |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to phastafrican For This Useful Post: | wparsons (03-04-2015) |
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#18 |
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I agree. Take your time, get familiar with the car at track days, read as much as you can, and when you're ready...budget out your full car build AND the costs of racing. Then add a lot more on top of that because that's how racing works.
For just the suspension, $5k can get you a very nice track day and time attack level suspension. Wheel to wheel racing on hoosiers is a different beast. It will ask more of you and some level of ability in tuning the car is highly recommended. A year of getting familiar with the car could be pretty useful in the long run. - Andy |
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| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: |
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#19 |
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NASA SpecE30 Racer
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Nope. He is looking to go straight to the pointy end and run in ST1 with those weights and power levels. OP might want to look at the kind of competition and budgets he will be facing in ST1. I would download the NASA CCR and the ST1 rules documents as a starting point:
https://nasa-assets.s3.amazonaws.com...282/2015.1.pdf https://nasa-assets.s3.amazonaws.com...er-Touring.pdf
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Street/Track Car: 2006 Honda S2000 TT3 || Race Car: 1987 BMW 325is SpecE30 || Tow Vehicle: 2014 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Sold Cars: 2012 BMW M3 || 2013 Subaru BRZ || 2012 Porsche Cayman R || 2009 Chevrolet Z06 || 2009 BMW M3 || 2004 BMW M3 || 2004 Nissan 350Z |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
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IMO, get a good set of coilovers that will work on street tires and get comfortable with the car. Take a year or two to gain some experience, and plan on taking at least a couple racing schools.
Spring rates that will be optimal for full slicks won't be ideal for street tires, same the other way around. Jumping straight into a class like that without extensive experience is going to be a frustrating experience. If you're determined to go full out from the start, budget at least $10k on suspension. That'll include control arms, bushings (or spherical bearings), etc plus the springs/shocks/upper mounts.
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Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak... flickr |
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#21 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
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Leaving the power aspect along, and downgrading the tires while your learning will be much more productive. As for the suspension components, I think I have a pretty good idea of what would be safe for you. Send me a PM. -Mike |
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#22 | |
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Frosty Carrot
Join Date: Jan 2013
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![]() Just sayin'... that guy probably knows track cars better than any of us. Use solid quality parts, set up your car, and enjoy!
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