Phantom FTS Electric Supercharger Owners Thread

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by Namuna

2 questions:
1. What is this Procede ESC Controller that Shiv is talking about? I Google'd it and what I found is that it will basically electronically control the boost from 0-100% within a certain RPM range (instead of it being just either on or off). Is this right?

2. Is there anyone that has (or had) the Crawford BPBs installed when you got your ESC? Did you keep the BPBs, are you still happy with the results? Or did you uninstall the BPBs?

I have the BPBs and from what I read a few pages back is that they'll actually LOWER the overall power curve vs not having them...Except for a small gap between 6,000-6,500rpm, which you actually get a little boost, but that defeats the purpose of gaining the power at the low-end for me in the first place.

I'm just trying to figure out if there's enough of a power loss to justify the cost/effort to get rid of the BPBs.

1. yes. So you could have 10% boost at 10% throttle, 20% boost at 20% throttle so on and so on. But, you can tune it to your liking. 40% boost at 75% throttle etc. Have complete control over when you have boost, to make the car behave more like n/a...but with a lot more power haha.

Once its release there will be a lot more info.

2. The BPB's don't help out much, unless your N/A. If you have an ESC, I'd probably sell the BPB

[l0aded]

Exciting times. Any word on ballpark pricing for the procede controller?

[07jazzrs5gt86]

For those who is running e85
Few days ago I finally switched to e85
First thing I notice on 1st tank is response is pretty good and noticeable vs 91 pump but the culprit is cold start is a problem. Those couples days is roughly 60-70 f degree and seems like the car is struggling to start/fire up. Even when the engine turn it'll have a few blimps/hiccup before it actually started.
I know there's a simple fix to it as to add 1-2 gallon of 91 before fill with e85 but I wonder are there's anything else I can do like changing the crank values on the ESC e85 map?
Now I'm on my second tank and wooooow this corn juice is just amazing the car felt much stronger before ESC and after ESC is just simply fantastic. Just this morning I out run a 2013-2015 mustang v6 by a car length and I was shock how this thing is accelerating now

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by 07jazzrs5gt86

For those who is running e85
Few days ago I finally switched to e85
First thing I notice on 1st tank is response is pretty good and noticeable vs 91 pump but the culprit is cold start is a problem. Those couples days is roughly 60-70 f degree and seems like the car is struggling to start/fire up. Even when the engine turn it'll have a few blimps/hiccup before it actually started.
I know there's a simple fix to it as to add 1-2 gallon of 91 before fill with e85 but I wonder are there's anything else I can do like changing the crank values on the ESC e85 map?
Now I'm on my second tank and wooooow this corn juice is just amazing the car felt much stronger before ESC and after ESC is just simply fantastic. Just this morning I out run a 2013-2015 mustang v6 by a car length and I was shock how this thing is accelerating now

Simple fix like you said is add a gallon of 91. As for modifying the tune: @Shiv@Openflash

[Gums]

Originally Posted by Shiv@Openflash

I've been running the new computer controlled set up in a customer's Miata for a couple weeks now. No issues at all to report. It's pretty awesome actually

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=567709

Hi Shiv, a couple of questions if I may, prompted by your post on the miata forum.

1) From your comment "I wouldn't bother upgrading to the new lightweight compressor updated controller." are you saying that the procede will adapt to both the single and 2 stage throttle switch versions of the controller or are some modifications required?

2) "the Airflow Straightener. It's is HIGHLY recommended." will their be an airflow straightener for the 86?

[Sojhinn]

Hopefully, whoever hooks up with shiv has the 2.0 setup. It just makes sense to setup the system with the latest retail release.

[Sojhinn]

@Shiv@Openflash any news on the procede front? Anything we can do to help? (I noticed on the Miata forums you are waiting for the enclosures)

[l0aded]

Feel like this is a good thread to bring back that is more focused on the people who have the ESC rather than the tons of people asking if they are on the wait list.

I just wanted to share my recent experience where I somehow snagged the power wire (the one that goes into the driver's fuse box) off of the voltbox reader. The wire is only connected by a drop of solder so it is not difficult to remove. From here everything that went wrong could have. In order to receive a brand new wire harness and voltbox it would have been 75 dollars with no guarantee it would work unless I sent in my controller so I decided to attempt the fix myself.

Having a solder kit I decided to take off the box to bring it in and resolder the connection. When pulling off the 3.5 aux cable out of the voltbox, it got stuck somehow and would not release. Eventually I managed to take it out, bring it inside, resolder the connection, reconnect it to the car and for some reason it did not work. Upon further investigation, the female side had broken when I pulled the 3.5mm out of it. At this point I remade the whole voltbox with a new 1/8" audio TRS connector (the female connector side) and tried again. This time when plugging it in the solder immediately started to melt and the wire intensely hot. Luckily I managed to unplug it after half a second and only the wire was damaged since the rubber insulation melted. Turns out the insulation on the MALE side of the 3.5mm cable had broken as well when the wire got caught and shorted.

After all this I got Rob's input on what wires do what in order to reconstruct the entire harness and fix the ESC. I'm a mechanical engineer but have electrical knowledge so was able to fix everything but I would not recommend someone attempt to fix it if they are unsure of what they are doing. The electrical systems have a ton of energy and can easily hurt yourself or your car.

After losing the ESC for a few days I am greatly appreciative of having it again. The car feels incredibly slow without it, especially since it creates drag at the high end when the ESC is not active.

So key takeaways:
1. Be very careful when debugging issues with the system.
2. I recommend taping or putting a drop of glue where the voltbox power wire comes out of, the connection is not the best and can pull out easily.
3. Be careful when messing with the voltbox as the parts are fairly cheap and can easily break.
4. For users: Consider an in-line fuse on that 24V wire going from the controller to the voltbox. For Rob: maybe in future revisions assuming Procede doesn't completely phase it out

[Robftss]

Originally Posted by l0aded

Feel like this is a good thread to bring back that is more focused on the people who have the ESC rather than the tons of people asking if they are on the wait list.

I just wanted to share my recent experience where I somehow snagged the power wire (the one that goes into the driver's fuse box) off of the voltbox reader. The wire is only connected by a drop of solder so it is not difficult to remove. From here everything that went wrong could have. In order to receive a brand new wire harness and voltbox it would have been 75 dollars with no guarantee it would work unless I sent in my controller so I decided to attempt the fix myself.

Having a solder kit I decided to take off the box to bring it in and resolder the connection. When pulling off the 3.5 aux cable out of the voltbox, it got stuck somehow and would not release. Eventually I managed to take it out, bring it inside, resolder the connection, reconnect it to the car and for some reason it did not work. Upon further investigation, the female side had broken when I pulled the 3.5mm out of it. At this point I remade the whole voltbox with a new 1/8" audio TRS connector (the female connector side) and tried again. This time when plugging it in the solder immediately started to melt and the wire intensely hot. Luckily I managed to unplug it after half a second and only the wire was damaged since the rubber insulation melted. Turns out the insulation on the MALE side of the 3.5mm cable had broken as well when the wire got caught and shorted.

After all this I got Rob's input on what wires do what in order to reconstruct the entire harness and fix the ESC. I'm a mechanical engineer but have electrical knowledge so was able to fix everything but I would not recommend someone attempt to fix it if they are unsure of what they are doing. The electrical systems have a ton of energy and can easily hurt yourself or your car.

After losing the ESC for a few days I am greatly appreciative of having it again. The car feels incredibly slow without it, especially since it creates drag at the high end when the ESC is not active.

So key takeaways:
1. Be very careful when debugging issues with the system.
2. I recommend taping or putting a drop of glue where the voltbox power wire comes out of, the connection is not the best and can pull out easily.
3. Be careful when messing with the voltbox as the parts are fairly cheap and can easily break.
4. For users: Consider an in-line fuse on that 24V wire going from the controller to the voltbox. For Rob: maybe in future revisions assuming Procede doesn't completely phase it out

Good to hear your DIY repair worked.

Voltbox,Fuse line, 11 lb block of steel.

[Target70]

Is your shop in a high g turn?

[l0aded]

Originally Posted by Robftss

Good to hear your DIY repair worked.

Voltbox,Fuse line, 11 lb block of steel.

I'm assuming it caught onto my leg or shoe when I got into the car which would put much more than 11 pounds if it stays fixed. I attach mine with 3M double sided tape so it stays on pretty good. Thanks again for your help with the DIY.

[qitorr]

Hi,
I have been following this ESC throughout its development and just recently signed up on the growing waitlist. It has been great to see the progress Rob and Shiv have made with the help of a passionate group of owners.

I had a question as I get ready. On the owners stats list I see some of you are running more extensive exhaust mods than others. I was looking at a JDL EUL header, Nameless OP/FP combo with highflow cat and resonator, and Q300 or something to keep the sound from being too loud. What I didn't know was how much of the gains from the header in particular are additive with the ESC. Either should get rid of the torque dip but how much could I expect the overall curve to move by the addition of the header? Thanks a bunch for any help you can give in keeping me busy while I wait these long upcoming months.

Quetzal

[raven1231]

Originally Posted by qitorr

Hi,
I have been following this ESC throughout its development and just recently signed up on the growing waitlist. It has been great to see the progress Rob and Shiv have made with the help of a passionate group of owners.

I had a question as I get ready. On the owners stats list I see some of you are running more extensive exhaust mods than others. I was looking at a JDL EUL header, Nameless OP/FP combo with highflow cat and resonator, and Q300 or something to keep the sound from being too loud. What I didn't know was how much of the gains from the header in particular are additive with the ESC. Either should get rid of the torque dip but how much could I expect the overall curve to move by the addition of the header? Thanks a bunch for any help you can give in keeping me busy while I wait these long upcoming months.

Quetzal

Header I think adds maybe 10hp when coupled with the ESC. Nothing crazy to be honest, sound great though.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by qitorr

Hi,
I have been following this ESC throughout its development and just recently signed up on the growing waitlist. It has been great to see the progress Rob and Shiv have made with the help of a passionate group of owners.

I had a question as I get ready. On the owners stats list I see some of you are running more extensive exhaust mods than others. I was looking at a JDL EUL header, Nameless OP/FP combo with highflow cat and resonator, and Q300 or something to keep the sound from being too loud. What I didn't know was how much of the gains from the header in particular are additive with the ESC. Either should get rid of the torque dip but how much could I expect the overall curve to move by the addition of the header? Thanks a bunch for any help you can give in keeping me busy while I wait these long upcoming months.

Quetzal

It also smooths out the hp curve and has some gains through the mid range.

The header will also make your exhaust extremely loud during cold starts. Make sure to snag an exhaust that will mellow out the noise. I have the q300 with the high flow cat in the front pipe and I think it's the perfect balance of sound.