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Old 12-28-2014, 08:04 PM   #15
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Finally got it in. Had to have a jack on the transmission and another on the front of the engine. Played with each to get it lined up and then removed all the skin of my back shaking and wiggling it in place. It was a tough one for whatever reason. But I didn't force it and all the bolts line up and thread in. Yay.
Awesome. Take your time finishing up. Don't start running for the barn.
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Old 12-28-2014, 08:19 PM   #16
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Awesome. Take your time finishing up. Don't start running for the barn.
Yes sir. Car won't be running for another week anyway so no big hurry.
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Old 12-28-2014, 08:48 PM   #17
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Yes sir. Car won't be running for another week anyway so no big hurry.
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Old 12-28-2014, 09:52 PM   #18
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My next question is: how do I adjust the clutch pedal after I get the car on the road again?
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Old 12-28-2014, 10:39 PM   #19
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I hate that shitty clutch adjustment DIY. I disagree with the method. Have you read it?
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Old 12-29-2014, 11:45 AM   #20
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I hate that shitty clutch adjustment DIY. I disagree with the method. Have you read it?
Ya. He basically just says "turn these bolts her to make it better." So how do I do it properly?
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Old 12-29-2014, 11:58 AM   #21
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[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw[/ame]
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Old 12-29-2014, 02:09 PM   #22
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This is closer. That guy is talking about setting up the clutch to get as much stroke out of the system as possible. It's the way our clutches come from the factory and it's also why so many complain of an uncomfortably high engagement point.

The self-adjustment valve shuts really quickly on our master cylinders so there's nearly zero dead travel up top. I recommend against any pre-compression of the piston.

It comes down to personal preference for how far from the floor you want your clutch pedal to be at that first touch/grab point.

Somewhere else in that DIY thread people express concern for turning the rod and leaving the clevis connected. That's bullshit. Perfectly ok to do that.

Do you think you have enough from that video? It's not bad.
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Old 12-29-2014, 03:23 PM   #23
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This is closer. That guy is talking about setting up the clutch to get as much stroke out of the system as possible. It's the way our clutches come from the factory and it's also why so many complain of an uncomfortably high engagement point.

The self-adjustment valve shuts really quickly on our master cylinders so there's nearly zero dead travel up top. I recommend against any pre-compression of the piston.

It comes down to personal preference for how far from the floor do you want your clutch pedal to be at that first touch/grab point.

Somewhere else in that DIY thread people express concern for turning the rod and leaving the clevis connected. That's bullshit. Perfectly ok to do that.

Do you think you have enough from that video? It's not bad.
I defenetly picked up some good ideas. I guess I'll have to play with it. I was hoping someone could say "do this and this and this" to make it right....."
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Old 12-29-2014, 03:43 PM   #24
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I defenetly picked up some good ideas. I guess I'll have to play with it. I was hoping someone could say "do this and this and this" to make it right....."
yeah but then you'd just be doing the same thing 3 times.
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Old 12-29-2014, 03:56 PM   #25
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Do this on a level surface where the car can roll a little either way and nothing will hang up on a fully-opened driver's door.

1. Test to make sure you can compress the slave piston into the cylinder.
y - 2
n - Back out the cruise control switch until the pedal gets to the top, 2
2. Sitting in the car with transmission in neutral and one foot on the ground, release handbrake and push the car backward a little. Does it move?
y - 3
n - Stop. Something is wrong.
3. With the transmission in reverse and the other foot depressing the clutch, can the car be moved without any additional resistance?
y - 4
n - Stop. Clutch is binding.
4. Rocking the car with one foot and incrementally lifting the other, find the point at which the clutch begins to engage; where it touches.

Is it at least 2-3 cm? Do you like where it is? I like mine low so I can just engage the clutch by rocking back on my ankle after I've lifted a little. I have sasquatch feet so...
y - 5
n - Adjust the rod accordingly and make sure the master cylinder piston can extend completely, 5
5. Adjust the cruise control switch so it takes up the slack in the clevis. Make sure everything is tight. Clean up. Drive.
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:18 PM   #26
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yeah but then you'd just be doing the same thing 3 times.
Lol
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