Clutch install questions
 

I'm replacing my clutch and flywheel tomorrow. Looking over the DIY, everything looks straight forward. I just wanted to double check what I want to lubricate and what I want to avoid lubricating? It looks like I want light lube on the transmission shaft and the inside of the release bearing on said shaft. Also a small amount on the contact points of the fork. Does that all sound correct?

Also, can I get the flywheel bearing out of the flywheel without a press? Rubber mallet and socket? Or something else more clever?

Your aftermarket Flywheel should have a new pilot bearing to press in, shouldn't need to remove the stock FW one (socket and rubber mallet is fine).

Also light grease on the disk hub.

The inside of the hub where it will go over the trans shaft? Or am i mistaken?

Yes, the inside of the hub that will slide back and forth the transmission input shaft.

Anyone have a trick to get the transmission back on? I have the lower studs lined up but can't seem to drive it in. Top of trans is about 3/4" out, bottom is about 1/4" out. Can't seem to drive it home....

Don't let it hang by the input shaft. That's bad in a few ways.

Should never have to "drive" it home. More like "slip it in."

Did you use an alignment tool while bolting down the pressure plate? That's critical.

Support it with a jack to get it lined up. Something is wrong if it doesn't just slip in with a bit of jiggling.

I just did this job a week ago. I had the same problems getting the transmission back in.

Jack the engine up, don't just do it for support, jack it up as high as you can, you can even leave the motor mounts on.

You'll notice your engine noses up as it pivots on the motor mounts, which points the transmission bolts down, allowing you to slide it in.

It should be VERY easy going in. DON'T try to force it by tightening bolts. You could damage your clutch splines.

Thanks. I wondered about that. Do you mean jack up the front of the engine so it pivots to the back?

Yes.

I just jacked it up from the oil pan with a piece of wood and a microfiber over the wood to protect paint. I used the OEM bottle jack since I had the transmission on my shop jack.

It probably went up 4-6 inches with the motor mounts on. All the DIYs say to jack up the engine for "support." Which I did, but it wasn't until I jacked up the engine to align the transmission bolts that I successfully rejoined them.

The way things are going for me it seems I want the oil pan side to stay and jack the front of the motor up so it tilts backward...

word

just a little more than how it normally sits

That's what happened to me, jack the engine up from the oil pan, you can lift it up several inches and it will give you a better angle on the bolts.

Finally got it in. Had to have a jack on the transmission and another on the front of the engine. Played with each to get it lined up and then removed all the skin of my back shaking and wiggling it in place. It was a tough one for whatever reason. But I didn't force it and all the bolts line up and thread in. Yay.