Inexpensive DIY Big Brake Kit

[SomeoneWhoIsntMe]

man, those are THIN rotors. they look like rear brakes, lol.

[200hp/tonne]

This might turn out to be more of a pad review than the system review, but bite characteristics are noticeably different.
the stock pad bit hard initially as I pressed the pedal, and then plateaued quickly too.
now it is much more linear on bite as well. It is easier to modulate braking as it feels like the harder I press, the harder I stop.
It definitely feels like stopping distances have shortened substantially. Of course I don't have any data to back this up.

[DustinS]

What pads are you running?

[200hp/tonne]

Originally Posted by DustinS

What pads are you running?

Wilwood BP 10 on front, stock rear.

I will most probably shift to EBC Yellowstuff all around shortly.

[200hp/tonne]

Also, i think i have air in my brake system.

Can anyone point me to a good reputed place that can bleed my brake system properly?
I am in Erie PA, hopefully something nearby would be good.

Thanks in advance

[BRZZZZZZZZZZ]

I am pretty sure those are the same calipers I have on my Civic RT4WD. Interesting.

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by 200hp/tonne

Also, i think i have air in my brake system.

Can you describe the issue?

When I switched to the Wilwoods I noticed the pedal was hard at first, but over a few days of driving, the pedal would get soft as if it was leaking air into the system. I could pump the pedal once to get it to firm up. Bleeding the brakes would net a decent amount of air.

I found tapping (w/ rubber mallet) on the Caliper before and during bleeding got a decent amount of air out, but I am still having the problem. It only gets to a certain point that is fine for driving, the pedal travel is just a bit too far for my liking. I was hoping that switching to the smaller piston area and better sealing of the connections should help. Though it sounds like you are having the same issue

[200hp/tonne]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Can you describe the issue?
Though it sounds like you are having the same issue

My pedal engagement is the same every time, just feels a bit spongy. It has always been spongy, but it hasn't gotten better or worse in the past few days.
I hope that helps...

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by Jesse36m3

How are those calipers so cheap?

Because many of the cheaper Wilwood calipers are modular. The two outside halves are fitted with different spacers to fit a variety of rotor widths.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by 200hp/tonne

My pedal engagement is the same every time, just feels a bit spongy. It has always been spongy, but it hasn't gotten better or worse in the past few days.
I hope that helps...

Did you properly bed the brakes in?


Also, I hate pressure bleeders. I always do the old school way with someone in the car pumping the brakes and someone at the caliper for the bleeder screw.

[200hp/tonne]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

Did you properly bed the brakes in?

I think so. Followed the procedure they gave me.
One thing i did not do was bang on the calipers with a mallet while bleeding, which i shall do shortly, once i get delivery of more fluid.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by 200hp/tonne

I think so. Followed the procedure they gave me.
One thing i did not do was bang on the calipers with a mallet while bleeding, which i shall do shortly, once i get delivery of more fluid.

Of all the Wilwoods and other brakes I've installed, I've never had to beat on the caliper to get a good bleed. Just took plenty of fluid and using the 2-man method.


As for bedding, you may try again. Go find a lightly used piece of road and literally just do 75-5 mph stops until you can smell the brakes and the pedal gets nice and soft. Drive home using minimal brake to let them cool, then re-bleed.

[GotBRZ1691]

Somebody say plates?

This is the ESAB plasma / Water jet cutter combo at our facility