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| Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires. |
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#1 |
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Tire Destroyer
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yeah
Last edited by Readytoxplod; 11-07-2014 at 10:35 AM. |
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#2 |
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Wider in the rear will increase understeer. If you don't want to upset that balance, get square wheel/tire sizes.
Out of the two options, the 8.5F will have less understeer than the 8F, but both will definitely add understeer. IMO, you're better off with 9" all around.
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#3 |
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#4 |
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Sometimes I'm wrong.
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What tire size were you going to run on each wheel? In the past I have picked my tire width and then chosen wheel from there. Plus wheel selection for 5x100 has gotten much better the past two years, so you should be able to find whatever size you need.
Go with a square setup either way unless you are making big power. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to murdoc For This Useful Post: | Readytoxplod (09-24-2014) |
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#5 |
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Sometimes I'm wrong.
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#6 | ||
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Quote:
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Tell me, how do you dial out the understeer? What settings will you run? Or will you rely on the expertise of the various armchair engineers on FT86Club (myself included)? I ask this because you already answered your own question, yet you don't even know how the staggered setup will affect the car without all the extra mods. How can you know the answer to the chicken without knowing the answer to the egg? Keep it simple. -alex |
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#7 | |
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i kill cones.
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With how small the offsets are on car wheels I doubt you notice it... Especially in day to day driving
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| The Following User Says Thank You to BRZ21 For This Useful Post: | murdoc (09-23-2014) |
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#9 | |
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It does, very slightly, change the roll center... but since we're talking about ~10-20mm per side it's not enough to really notice it in the handling balance. IMO, you're better off with spacers in the rear than a different offset on the wheels because at least that way you can still rotate your tires. Running staggered offsets means the wheel is stuck where it is.
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#10 | ||
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Tire Destroyer
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If I do 8.0 I can do Nexen n3000 235/40 r18. Also 255/35R18 in rear. Someone's ran 245/35 in Michelin PSS in the rear with the same wheels also Last edited by Readytoxplod; 09-24-2014 at 10:53 AM. |
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#11 |
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If you're set on 9.5 in the rear, get 8.5 in the front. You could do 225/255 or 235/265.
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#12 | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ZDan For This Useful Post: | wparsons (09-24-2014) |
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#13 | |
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OP, we can all call you out: You can tune anything out of whatever wheel setup you are going to run, but... why? Why are you putting more in and taking some out to get to an optimal setup, when you can put less in and get to that SAME optimal setup without spending more money? The goal is isn't what you can do with all these parts and bits. It's to tell you that you are building it in a way that is counter-productive to your end goal of improved handling. You can make the right decision in this case by not making the expensive purchase. The sway bars and rear camber adjustment is totally not needed unless you are 1) too low for stock camber adjustment, or 2) your driving style dictates more roll stiffness in the rear. -alex |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mav1178 For This Useful Post: | wparsons (09-24-2014) |
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