BPU questions about what to get!!

[wparsons]

EcuTek is just the tuning software, they don't provide actual tunes. You need to work with a tuner to get an appropriate tune for your needs.

[TjAlmeida]

Originally Posted by wparsons

That's just not true for all headers... where they make power depends on the design, just look at the nameless headers that make the bulk of their power increase in the midrange. Yes there are gains up top as well, but they're primarily designed for usable power in the midrange, not a couple extra hp at the very top of the RPM range.

Typically 4-1 headers shift power higher into the RPM range while 4-2-1 give a big bump in the middle, but that's not even always true until you compare if they're stepped or not, what diameter tubes and what length the tubes are.

Also, if you look at dynos pre/post manifold spacers, you'll see that you aren't really losing much power up top, it just seems that way because of the big bump they give around 6500 rpm. Forget about peak numbers, area under the curve is what makes the car faster.

Ok your choice in headers for what you would like. ButI look at other people's dyno graphs with similar mods. Don't tell me I didn't lose that much power when there is close to a 20whp difference after 6500rpm. I know Canadian fuel is garbage but from what i have seen our fuel is not giving that same drop as other people around here with similar mods except the spacers. Guess the only way to know for sure will be a dyno graph after I remove them.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by TjAlmeida

Ok your choice in headers for what you would like. ButI look at other people's dyno graphs with similar mods. Don't tell me I didn't lose that much power when there is close to a 20whp difference after 6500rpm. I know Canadian fuel is garbage but from what i have seen our fuel is not giving that same drop as other people around here with similar mods except the spacers. Guess the only way to know for sure will be a dyno graph after I remove them.

Do you have a before and after dyno showing you actually lost 20whp after 6500rpm?

Most dynos I've seen show that you'll lose like 3-5whp above that point, it just looks like a bigger drop because of the big gain before then.

Look at this thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62007

and specifically this dyno:



You can clearly see that you don't lose a ton of power up top, it just doesn't carry the gains past ~7000rpm. The area under the curve gained before that more than make up for the tiny loss above there though.

[newports]

Man now I am really confused.

So I should get the spacers or no?

If I need to keep the cat, should I keep the stock front pipe or is it worth upgrading to aftermarket catted front pipe?

Why did someone tell me to tune the car before I install anything..?

[Luis_GT]

Originally Posted by newports

Man now I am really confused.

So I should get the spacers or no?

If I need to keep the cat, should I keep the stock front pipe or is it worth upgrading to aftermarket catted front pipe?

Why did someone tell me to tune the car before I install anything..?

Catted 3" FP, Catback and drop in filter netted me 12 WHP over stock

[newports]

Originally Posted by Luis_GT

Catted 3" FP, Catback and drop in filter netted me 12 WHP over stock

That's without a tune?

[Luis_GT]

Originally Posted by newports

That's without a tune?

yep

[Maverickgear]

Originally Posted by wparsons

EcuTek is just the tuning software, they don't provide actual tunes. You need to work with a tuner to get an appropriate tune for your needs.

Yup! Looking at a vendor which does tuning through the ecutek platform. Most probably should be heading in that direction and see what they can offer.

[Dephective]

Originally Posted by newports

Man now I am really confused.

So I should get the spacers or no?

If I need to keep the cat, should I keep the stock front pipe or is it worth upgrading to aftermarket catted front pipe?

Why did someone tell me to tune the car before I install anything..?

Most tuners offer free updates for N/A as long as you stay N/A. You didn't say when you were planning on doing all of the stuff, so I assumed it wasnt going to be at the same time. You said you wanted reliability, so the first thing I personally would do is get the tune. Stock tune, meaning from the factory, is terrible, makes no power and knocks like crazy. If your tuner offers free updates, then just have it retuned after you get your header. Talk to @jamesm

[newports]

Originally Posted by Dephective

Most tuners offer free updates for N/A as long as you stay N/A. You didn't say when you were planning on doing all of the stuff, so I assumed it wasnt going to be at the same time. You said you wanted reliability, so the first thing I personally would do is get the tune. Stock tune, meaning from the factory, is terrible, makes no power and knocks like crazy. If your tuner offers free updates, then just have it retuned after you get your header. Talk to @jamesm

I'm gonna need ecutek for the tune right?

Is there a reason why toyota tuned it so crappy stock?

[Robert@Openflash]

Get a tune and header and you will achieve the greatest performance gain with the least amount of money spent.

Frontpipe, overpipe, mid pipe, and catback configurations are more for the sound you are trying to achieve. You will get gains from these parts but not substantial.

If you want something reliable and have different maps that are available to you free of charge. Check us out: http://openflashtablet.com/products/OFT/index.html

Any questions let me know and I will be able to assist you.

Cheers

Originally Posted by newports

Hey guys,

I've decided not to go FI and just end it with upgrading suspension,tires&wheels, axleback(sp elite), maybe header, front pipe, overpipe, mid pipe?

Would ending with just the header be ok?

As in extra money for down pipe, over pipe, and mid pipe not worth the gains?


I don't even want to tune it as of right now want it to be very reliable. Just worried about running E85

thanks

[Dephective]

Originally Posted by newports

I'm gonna need ecutek for the tune right?

Is there a reason why toyota tuned it so crappy stock?

Either ECUtek or OpenFlash Tablet.

Toyota didn't tune it, Subaru did. They are notoriously shitty tunes, and it's no surprise ours is too. They knock bad, and they are rich too. Most OEM tunes are bad in general because they aren't personalized to your environment of operation. They have to be able to operate in arid desert climates, and icy tundra temperatures, all sorts of humidity levels and altitudes. They can't be perfect AND be adaptable... Especially at our price point lol