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#1 |
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Koni Yellow Rears - Top Hat Drill size
So I did one side of the Koni Yellow rears yesterday. Couldn't finish the other side as it was getting late. Anyway, one of the steps required is drilling the rear top hat. Koni says we should drill a 12mm hole. I don't have a metric set and I read somewhere that a 1/2" would work, so I just went with 1/2" without thinking of trying anything different. 1/2" is 12.7mm, so pretty close, the hole will have a larger radius by .35mm over the Koni shaft.
After reading more about the Konis this morning, I realize a few folks are going with slightly smaller bits, going with 31/64ths (12.3mm) or 15/32nds (11.9mm + some slight grinding/boring). Now I'm questioning whether the 1/2" bit was too large. It didn't really occur to me that the top hat would have any side load from the strut's shaft that would require an exact fit. I figured the hole was there just to get the thicker adjuster through. Anyway, what I did has been done and there is no turning back on this top hat, but I can certainly buy another if I had to. Need some input on whether this should be a problem or not. Also would like to hear if anyone else has done 1/2" and what their experience has been. Car seems to drive just fine, no weird noises or anything, but want to prevent any future problems. Thanks. |
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#3 |
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#4 |
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Just don't put the front lower perch on upside down.
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#5 |
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Thanks but I'm not sure what you mean by the front lower perch. Did you mean the circular metal ring that holds the rubber gasket that sits right on top of the spring and under the top hat? The circular thing next to the triangular top hat in this photo?
I installed it the way it came off the OEM strut with the rubber facing downward on the spring. Wider part towards the bottom. ![]() Funny enough, I actually put the rear spring perch in upside down. I'll have to uninstall tonight and flip them over. Explains why I had such a hard time with the spring last night. |
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#6 |
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Oops, I meant rear. Too late lol.
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#8 |
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31/64" would have been slightly better, but those rubber bushings are going to deflect a hell of a lot more than the 15 thou difference between 31/64" and 1/2". You'll survive.
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#9 | |
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![]() ![]() You mean how it's illustrated in the Koni drawings? (though the front perch is part of the OEM shock-body, so I assume you meant rear)Quote:
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#10 |
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"Why is my car 2" higher in the back!?!??!"
It didnt handle very well thats for sure. |
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#11 | ||
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LOL, wish I had known about it prior to the 1st install. Oh well, all is fixed now.
Thanks for your input. I appreciate it. Quote:
Quote:
Haha, I was actually only able to finish one side that night. So it did look a little weird. Must admit, through a quick test drive, car seemed to drive fine. Rear was a little stiffer, probably because the spring was compressed more than usual, but overall it did drive OK. |
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#12 | |
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Quote:
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1jz salvaged brz build thread brought to you by visconti tuning --> Pipe dreams and poor life choices
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#13 | |
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Quote:
Given how the strut sits in structured 'assembly' consisting of bushings, perches, springs, spring pressure, top hats, nuts, mounts, etc and the primary movement going up/down the control arm and strut, I'd just have to wonder how much lateral force actually leads up to the strut's shaft. And if so, what level of movement generates a meaningful side effect? Given they're two separate pieces, even from the factory there is always going to be some level of 'play' between a top hat and strut. Anyway, after seeing the responses here and doing a bit more research the 1/2" hole seems to be fine. Car was put together last night and went out for a test drive, felt good, no weird noises! |
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#14 |
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Off topic from the thread, but since I messed up...
Wrong way - ![]() Right way -
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