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| Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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#1 |
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Member
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Auto or Manual for FI?
I've always been a manual guy but... I'm getting rid of my 6mt 997 turbo and planning to get a BRZ. I'm sure I won't be very happy with the power for long so I think a turbo will be in my future. I'm curious about how good the clutch options are for FI applications (I dunno, 300ft/lbs tq?).
Does the auto withstand decent power gains at all? After having a modded 2011 Mustang GT w/ all sorts of clutch shittiness and replacing the clutch in my 997TT to the tune of $3500 only to end up with a jumpy car, I'm wondering if an AT might be better for increased HP applications... |
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#2 |
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It's proven and confirmed by Tada himself that stock vs. stock the AT holds higher torque than MT. However, I doubt it's designed to hold twice as much torque vs. stock w/o any issues at all.
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#3 |
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Junior
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For a small fee (uh think like 1500ish?) you can upgrade the valve bodies and torque converter on the AT with the addition of a tranny cooler, aiding in the longevity of the unit itself. I was told by @Jason@DSG that it would 400-450 whp (assuming 320-370 wtq) fine.
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#4 | |
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Quote:
I'm just waiting to hear back from SSP with the final testing results before I make any number claims. |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Jason@DSG For This Useful Post: | JonAvalon (07-02-2014), Knickstape (07-03-2014) |
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#5 |
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in orbe terrum non visi
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seems stock manual transmissions explode around 400wtq(which depending on turbo is over 500whp), alot less if you actually have traction. Clutches arnt a problem, I have an act streetlite at 380wtq no issues (but I have no traction) and exedy makes some pretty awesome clutches as well. They also make the oem clutch which is good for around 300ish. You could always swap in the v160 from fullblown and that will hold over 1000whp
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#6 |
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What are your goals? Straight line or track? If you want to go fast in a straight line, I suggest another car. If you want to go fast on the track, the manual probably provides more potential. If you want more engagement with driving, get the manual. If you face traffic, the auto is better. If you want really insane power, you'll probably have to replace either one with something beefier. I've not seen many complaints about the manual, and I have seen plenty of positive things said about the auto, but I think the car really is manual-focused.
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#7 | |
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If there's decent clutch options then I'll probably stick with the MT. The shifter blew my mind when I took one for a test drive. I'll probably check out an auto though, just to be sure.. |
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#8 |
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NASA SpecE30 Racer
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You won't like the auto. Get the manual.
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#9 |
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it's a very good question IMHO, since there are pros and cons with both options ....even though I have a manual with SC, I feel that a really good auto might be even better for track use especially with the FI..
Many people think that the manual is better suited for track use and auto is better for street use, it's quite the opposite if you take everything into consideration,.. manual is one for twisty backroads and the three pedal feel is nice but it will definitely cost you when it comes to lap times Most of the time people neglect the fact that good autos shifts a lot faster and more accurately than any human, I didn't get a chance to drive an auto with paddle shifters in FRS or BRZ but people seem to like it.. with FI, it would be easier to maintain the car in power band and definitely help for rev matching(blipping the throttle) ,,let's take a look at the GT-R, without the robotic manual the car would never be able to upshift and keep the boost steady.. in addition, it is a lot easier to use left foot brake (for those who want to utilize trail braking) .. so there are always compromises in each scenario and manual transmission is not always the best option for all the time..
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#10 |
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I just wish the 6th gear wasn't so f'n long in the auto
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#11 |
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Just the tip
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I wish 6th gear in the manual was as long or longer than the auto's 6th gear as I'd prefer to get 2k rpm when on the freeway instead of 3k+.
Manual trans = more fun, work, time spent changing gears, holds less power. Auto trans = less fun, less work, less time spent changing gears, holds more power. Thus if the same power is getting to the wheels, the auto will be faster and a better daily driver. I go with manual as I fall asleep when driving an auto as I get bored. If you go over 300whp you'll need clutch, injectors, fuel pump, basically a lot of stuff. Stay around 250whp and you won't need anything but the supercharger or turbo kit. This is one reason why I have the Innovate kit, that and I got it used for super cheap.
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#12 |
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AT or MT doesn't matter. Your interest in either platform requires dedicated builds and goals. Either has its perks and either one will be built differently. Balance and reliability is the systematic integration of all the components working in perfect harmony on the car. We have a certain lust over the AT setup simply due to the insane traffic we have in California, but we have also developed potent MT setups that seem to be reigning at the podium for track driving and daily comfort.
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#13 |
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For me, this car is all about fun through involvement while being cheap enough that I feel I can push it. A manual is more fun because of the involvement. With a good automatic, a novice like me has less to worry about on the track and can often go faster. Still, I found that, with my BMW, it was hard to power out of turns because the auto was too slow on the downshift. I don't know what the FR-S auto is like. Like I said, I hear good things.
If you want to cut the torque dip, I'd get a header and tune, and maybe the Crawford Power Blocks. A tune alone is great. An e85 tune alone is greater. A header is even more awesome. I haven't tried the Power Blocks, but I only hear good things, and the dyno curves look fantastic. You'll still have to downshift, though, if you want torque.
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