Sheared/Siezed ARP stud (after having 3 stock studs strip)

[stugray]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

GOOD NEWS: There is enough thread left on the stud to get a lug on there with plenty of threads... means I don't have to immediately deal with this.

WAIT! WHAT???

You managed to break off the stud, using the lug nut, but had enough of the bolt left to still put the nut back on?

That means the bolt broke even though the nut was not seated in the wheel. If the nut was fully seated on the wheel the stud would have broken below the nut with it fully seated.

The only way I see that happening (if I am understanding this) is that you cross threaded the bolt and then overtorqued it.

OR you are changing between different sets of wheels and one set is thicker in the bolt pattern area than the other.

[buddy32]

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=30
@bpracer torqued to 65 ftlbs. Perhaps @Dave-ROR could chime in on what he torques his to?

[industrial]

Originally Posted by FRSpappa

New torque wrench...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This. Your torque wrench is probably out of cal. They really need to be recal'd anytime you drop it or after 2 years. That's what all our air force wrenches (snap on click style) were scheduled for and some would be pretty far off. An easy way to check is to have a friend with a newer torque wrench torque a lugnut down then put your wrench on it. If it doesn't click at the same spot well...there's your answer.

I've never used anti-seize on lugnuts. A little grease maybe.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

I went out and bought some anti-sieze and applied to to the lugs, found another rear lug/stud that was starting to seize/strip so I stopped trying to take it off and just retorqued it for later...

Ugggg

Ordered more ARP studs too...

Your torque wrench is off or something.


I've *never* broken an ARP stud, even on the race car pulling in after 1.5 hours, yanking the lugs off with a impact, replacing wheels/tires, and impacting them back on and then checking torque to 95ft/lbs. All while they are hundreds of degrees in temp.


I've had them on the BRZ for awhile also with a lot of wheel swaps and no issues at all. I torque the BRZ to 90ft/lbs and I never use anti-seize.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

It was the lack of anti-seize. But if it happens again, its the lugs.

Torque wrench is fine, no damaged threads, no cross threading (hand tightening first as I mentioned), not over or under torqued.

Unless you live in the snow belt I don't see any reason to use anti-seize. Hacing to remember new torque values based on the thread lubricant used is annoying.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by sshole

If you put anti-seize on the threads and torqued the nuts to 89 ft-lbs, you're over torqued.

^^ by up to 25% if using Moly 50... which you shouldn't use on lugs.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

Well I don't want the lugs to fall off, and its what a couple of actual RL mechanics not in this thread and have experience with ARP studs recommended, so ya...

Then it proves that they have done little research. Not all anti-seize is the same. You have to reduce the torque spec based on the lubricant used.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by FRSpappa

Been in the auto industry for 30yrs, never herd of anti seize on studs...

Been using it on every vehicle I have owned for 15+ years now including my race car. We used it when I worked at Walmart Tire Lube Express as well.

[King Tut]

Has anyone asked the OP what wheels he is actually using? Perhaps this is a wheel/hub issue. I would also like to know how you snapped that stud/nut off at that location yet you still have plenty of thread engagement with a new nut.

[Andreas83]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

Well I don't want the lugs to fall off, and its what a couple of actual RL mechanics not in this thread and have experience with ARP studs recommended, so ya...

I might not be a RL car mechanic, but I do make a living of wrenching stuff for the oil industry and I am certified to use both manual and hydraulic torque tools.
You must be doing something wrong to shear those ARP straight off.
They might all be damaged (stretched) if you have over tightened them past the tensile strength of the material.

There are ways to check for damage.
-Measure the studs OD in various places, they are damaged if they are shaped like a woman.


-You can also measure the thread pitch, the studs are M12x1,25.
That means that 10 threads should be 1,25cm, 20threads 2,5cm and so on.

What sort of nuts are you using? Quality or cheap chinese ones?
If might be the nuts causing this as well, a bad material combo can do that.
Are the nuts seizing and shearing when you try to un-sqrew them?

[Pacific Auto]

Originally Posted by FRSpappa

Been in the auto industry for 30yrs, never herd of anti seize on studs...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Family owns a mechanic shop since 1970. Dad loves anti seize! Never had a problem.

I torque mine at 85 with anti-seize. Had the wheels off close to 10 times, no problems yet!

[Kostamojen]

Ok, you guys didn't read the whole thread...

I broked the bolt off in order to get it off. It was SEIZED and would not come off. It wasn't turning without using a giant breaker bar, and it did go quite a few turns (about 1/2") before finally breaking off.

It was that or drill it off and possibly ruin the wheel. Either way it had to come off somehow.

Note: The stock studs/lugs that stripped were handled by both me and mechanics at various points. These ARP studs were installed originally by a shop and two shops have had the wheels/tires off with these studs, but the current lugnuts I installed myself one at a time to spec but without the antisieze.

[Kostamojen]

Muteki SR48 lugs in silver are the ones on the car:

[Kostamojen]

Also, I did use my other set of Muteki SR48's in black chrome for a short period of a couple weeks to a month last year (including an Autox) with the stock studs, and after that put the stock wheels back on and didn't remove them until the new wheels/tires went on this year. A couple of those lugs are actually stripped now, but I used a new set with the ARP's...