Sheared/Siezed ARP stud (after having 3 stock studs strip)
 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...606_115647.jpg

I'm getting tired of this...
:barf:
I had ARP studs installed a couple months ago because I had 3 stripped stock studs, but today I went to take off my front wheels to swap out the camber bolts and one stud was siezed on, would not rotated...

So it was either keep trying to rotate it off or drill it off. Not wanting to possibly ruin my new wheels I just kept roating it knowing the Muteki lug and ARP stud were going to be in bad shape no matter what... popped right off.

Now I need a new stud and will have to use a mismatching lug for awhile, but the worst thing is I'm not made of money and this shit keeps happening and im getting pissed...

I've been doing my own wheels for almost 15 years now and never had issues until this car, not one stripped stud ever. So either I'm doing something horribly wrong or something else is going on...

Advice?

what are you torquing your wheels to? any anti-seize on the threads? i always torque to 80ft lbs on this car and my gti. i have never had a stud break (gti was converted to studs). also a slight coating of anti-seize on the treads maybe once a year.

what are you torquing your wheels to? 1 snapped stud could be a defect, 2 is pushing while possible i would bet user error. but 4?

The stock studs are garbage but how did you manage to strip them? I've had my wheels on and off this car probably 20 times without issue (just put my ARP studs on last night). The only time I ever stripped a stud in my life was when I tried to run a lug on my WRX with an impact before starting it by hand.

The broken stud I would guess has to be because it was over torqued. Sometimes they might start to stick but after just a couple months you shouldn't have that problem. The lugs aren't aluminum, are they?

If you aren't already, start torquing them to 80ft lbs with a quality torque wrench. Not Harbor Freight.

No power tools, hand tighten then torque wrench to 80ftlbs (craftsman)

I've never used anti-seize, never needed it but It looks like its time to start.

The stock lugs were mostly to blame for the stock studs getting stripped. These Muteki lugs might be the cause of the sieze on the ARP studs due to being open ended but IDK

Never stripped a stud on my Impreza nor had anything seize up, and that was a '95.

GOOD NEWS: There is enough thread left on the stud to get a lug on there with plenty of threads... means I don't have to immediately deal with this.

The stock studs really are junk it sounds like. I think in this case you might have just had bad luck with that one stud. I've never used antiseize either but I have been using those same open ended Muteki lugs for a year. No issues with binding or anything and in fact they're the best lugs I've used.

So your lugs are "pass-through" type? If they are "closed" I can see why your stripping/breaking. But if it's a pass through lug, you shouldn't be.

Are you lubing the threads? if so, you are breaking them by applying more force than necessary. Your torque wrench wont stop at 80 ft/lbs if you lubed your threads.

Why do you guys recommend 80ft-lb? The manual states 89ft-lb for lug nits.

Haha, I'm just basing this on the value given earlier in the thread.

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Oh, ok. I wasn't sure if that was the recommended amount of torque for the muteki's specifically.

I went out and bought some anti-sieze and applied to to the lugs, found another rear lug/stud that was starting to seize/strip so I stopped trying to take it off and just retorqued it for later...

Ugggg

Ordered more ARP studs too...

New torque wrench...


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It may be worth your time to bring this up with ARP.