How to achieve -2.0 front Camber with stock suspension (if possible)?

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by glamcem

Ok , so as I understand I can use OEM camber bolts for upper hole and SPC camber bolt for the bottom so that should get me ~-2.0 negative camber for front. What kind of camber adjustment and number I can get for the rear @solidONE?

Thanks again

Originally Posted by glamcem

How do you know this ?

With the OE crash bolt and the SPC lower camber bolt, I doubt you will get -2.0. Maybe -1.8 if you are lucky.

H&R TC112 or TC212. either one will work. The TC112 has a longer cam, so they're presumably stronger. I ordered the TC112 and received one of each in the package... The adjustment range is less than +- 0.5* when mounted on the inner rear lower control arm mount.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by glamcem

Ok , so as I understand I can use OEM camber bolts for upper hole and SPC camber bolt for the bottom so that should get me ~-2.0 negative camber for front. What kind of camber adjustment and number I can get for the rear @solidONE?

Thanks again

Im installing this setup this weekend and will get an alignment next week I'll will report back what i can get out of it.

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[Krispeee]

couldn't you run the bottom bolt up top (in place of OEM camber bolt) and run spc camber bolts on the bottom? My fronts are set up this way and it looks like I got some additional negative camber from doing so, but no alignment yet to validate my claims.

[solidONE]

Just a side note on alignment. I just installed a track pipe and my rear toe went from 1/8" toe in to slightly toe out. I went to Sears for a free alignment check to confirm my numbers and my toe changed unexpectedly. Only thing I did was remover the factory muffler and install a track pipe I just fabbed up. Also my front toe went from slightly toe out to slightly toe in when they redid the alignment check after I got out of the car.

Lesson: Do your alignment fully weighted(or unweighted) to get accurate 'fight' alignment numbers.

Also my rear camber is lopsided.

[solidONE]

Friggin eh man... Got to redo my alignment with my spare and jack out the trunk and a 150lbs ballast on the seat.

[Wepeel]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Just a side note on alignment. I just installed a track pipe and my rear toe went from 1/8" toe in to slightly toe out. I went to Sears for a free alignment check to confirm my numbers and my toe changed unexpectedly. Only thing I did was remover the factory muffler and install a track pipe I just fabbed up. Also my front toe went from slightly toe out to slightly toe in when they redid the alignment check after I got out of the car.

Lesson: Do your alignment fully weighted(or unweighted) to get accurate 'fight' alignment numbers.

Also my rear camber is lopsided.

Hmm.. that sounds peculiar - I wouldn't think a net ~25 lb reduction in the rear would change rear toe that much. The difference between a full tank and the fuel light on is probably a 70 lb swing. How did you verify?

(I've always wondered about laser alignment racks - I get they are accurate but it's completely dependent on the operator. I've talked to people who have done the alignment, removed the wheel laser bracket thingies, put them back on, and it read quite differently)

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Wepeel

Hmm.. that sounds peculiar - I wouldn't think a net ~25 lb reduction in the rear would change rear toe that much. The difference between a full tank and the fuel light on is probably a 70 lb swing. How did you verify?

(I've always wondered about laser alignment racks - I get they are accurate but it's completely dependent on the operator. I've talked to people who have done the alignment, removed the wheel laser bracket thingies, put them back on, and it read quite differently)

Verified by Sears laser alignment. Maybe you're right. I will try to take it to another sears before I make any changes and get another alignment check.

My front toe was at 0 when I manually checked it without ballast. Rear camber was lop sided about the same amount every time. I did that purposely because I did not want to give up any negative camber just to even it out. There is a 0.5* difference left to right from the factory.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Krispeee

couldn't you run the bottom bolt up top (in place of OEM camber bolt) and run spc camber bolts on the bottom? My fronts are set up this way and it looks like I got some additional negative camber from doing so, but no alignment yet to validate my claims.

Exactamundo! The OE 'crash bolt' is simply the OE bottom bolt. so just buy the SPC camber bolt to replace the lower one and save some cashish.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by Krispeee

couldn't you run the bottom bolt up top (in place of OEM camber bolt) and run spc camber bolts on the bottom? My fronts are set up this way and it looks like I got some additional negative camber from doing so, but no alignment yet to validate my claims.

I must have heard you talking about it at a meet and thats where I got the idea, cuz thats what I did. Lol

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[glamcem]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Verified by Sears laser alignment. Maybe you're right. I will try to take it to another sears before I make any changes and get another alignment check.

My front toe was at 0 when I manually checked it without ballast. Rear camber was lop sided about the same amount every time. I did that purposely because I did not want to give up any negative camber just to even it out. There is a 0.5* difference left to right from the factory.

FYI, I've had so many bad experiences with Sears alignment and so-called professional Corvette shops (was going sideways at drag strip once because of the incorrect toe!!) Then I started using a Firestone shop.. I would highly advise you to make a friend there

BTW, I have ordered my FA 500 series coilovers with Swift spring (9k/9k), radial bearing and extenders upgrades so hopefully passing -2.5_-3 camber won't be a problem once I install them

[acx23]

If the top of the camber bolt (the dial part) isn't facing/pointing toward the front of the car, then it's on backwards.
For your reference, I'm on stock springs/height with proper camber bolts on the bottom strut slot, and I got -1.2* out of it.

Originally Posted by leicaboss

FYI, I bought SPC camber bolts thinking I could achieve the advertised -1.75 camber.

Instead I was maxed out on -0.3 on the driver side, meaning I had to do the same on the passenger side to stay even. I'm lowered on Swift BRZ springs, stock struts, and only one set of those bolts.

[sshole]

Originally Posted by ayau

The bottom bolt IS the crash bolt.

I didn't know that. Looks like I need to make an appointment with my alignment guy.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by solidONE

With the OE crash bolt and the SPC lower camber bolt, I doubt you will get -2.0. Maybe -1.8 if you are lucky.

H&R TC112 or TC212. either one will work. The TC112 has a longer cam, so they're presumably stronger. I ordered the TC112 and received one of each in the package... The adjustment range is less than +- 0.5* when mounted on the inner rear lower control arm mount.

I bought a set of TC112's end of last year and getting ready to install them now that the weather is better up here - did you have to modify them to fit? I.e. grind down some threads - I've read mixed reports on this. Thx

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[solidONE]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

I bought a set of TC112's end of last year and getting ready to install them now that the weather is better up here - did you have to modify them to fit? I.e. grind down some threads - I've read mixed reports on this. Thx

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Nope. TC112 are the longer ones and will not require modification. TC212 may have a couple threads caught on the subframe, but i didnt mod it and it still works fine.