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Old 03-27-2014, 08:14 PM   #1
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Question How to achieve -2.0 front Camber with stock suspension (if possible)?

I just wanted to see if there is a way to achieve -2.0 front and similar rear camber with stock suspension. I've searched and many people claim that the camber bolts help that as well as the camber plates and/or aftermarket control arms but I would rather not to use anything besides the camber bolts.

What kind of camber bolts did you end up using with the stock setup and how much of camber you gained?

I think the best route would be coilover and lower ride height to do that but I just want to be able to use my R compound tires (235/40/17 Nitto Nt01s with Enkei RPF1 17x9 +35mm wheels) with stock suspension for now to and upgrade it gradually.

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:35 PM   #2
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Maybe lowering springs and camber bolts? Then save up for coilovers if that's what you want.
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:48 PM   #3
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Impossible to gain -2 at the front with just bolts. Lowering springs won't work either because the front doesn't gain camber under compression. Max camber I've seen with just bolts is -1.5. You could slot the strut, which would give you more camber.
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:03 PM   #4
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What kind of camber bolts can I use on this car?
Any bolt is required for the rears?

Thanks
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:18 PM   #5
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It seems that most people get about -1.3 with just one set of camber bolts. Not sure how far a second set of bolts will take you, but I doubt it'll get you to -2.0.

Edmunds got -2.0 max on stock suspension using HVT camber plates, so that might be the route to go if that's your target.

http://www.edmunds.com/scion/fr-s/20...er-plates.html
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:32 PM   #6
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I've been searching this topic myself for a few days now and came across this thread:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44660

Looks like running camber bolts on both the top and bottom can get you the camber you're looking for.
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamcem View Post
What kind of camber bolts can I use on this car?
Any bolt is required for the rears?

Thanks
I use the OEM crash bolts. I just prefer OEM. Some people use SPC bolts, and I believe they can get maybe a tenth more.

No bolts for the rear. You'll need adjustable lower control arm or upper control arm bushings to get rear camber. You could also lower the ride height to gain negative at the rear.
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamcem View Post
I just wanted to see if there is a way to achieve -2.0 front and similar rear camber with stock suspension. I've searched and many people claim that the camber bolts help that as well as the camber plates and/or aftermarket control arms but I would rather not to use anything besides the camber bolts.

What kind of camber bolts did you end up using with the stock setup and how much of camber you gained?

I think the best route would be coilover and lower ride height to do that but I just want to be able to use my R compound tires (235/40/17 Nitto Nt01s with Enkei RPF1 17x9 +35mm wheels) with stock suspension for now to and upgrade it gradually.

Thanks in advance
I would have thought top and bottom camber bolts would get you there. But you will get better answers in the CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything! thread.

Also I am 90% sure the front struts do gain camber as they compress or are lowered.
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:06 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Turdinator View Post
I would have thought top and bottom camber bolts would get you there. But you will get better answers in the CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything! thread.

Also I am 90% sure the front struts do gain camber as they compress or are lowered.
It's very little if it does. Plus, you don't want to lower the car too much on OEM dampers or you'll run out of shock travel and/or ruin the suspension geometry.

Increasing positive caster will also increase negative camber when the wheel is turned. There's no factory caster adjustment, but I thought it's worth mentioning.
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:47 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayau View Post
I use the OEM crash bolts. I just prefer OEM. Some people use SPC bolts, and I believe they can get maybe a tenth more.

No bolts for the rear. You'll need adjustable lower control arm or upper control arm bushings to get rear camber. You could also lower the ride height to gain negative at the rear.
Do you have a part number or any link ?
Thanks again
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkSunrise View Post
It seems that most people get about -1.3 with just one set of camber bolts. Not sure how far a second set of bolts will take you, but I doubt it'll get you to -2.0.

Edmunds got -2.0 max on stock suspension using HVT camber plates, so that might be the route to go if that's your target.

http://www.edmunds.com/scion/fr-s/20...er-plates.html
Thanks but like I said I'd much rather use camber bolts or go with an affordable coilovers instead of camber platers due to NVH
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:51 AM   #12
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I can confirm for certain that -2.0 front camber is achievable with doubled up SPC camber bolts. Although every car will be different, also might be different side to side. It's probably more like -1.9* camber (+- .2*) You'll likely get more if you just slotted your mounting holes tho... but I have no experience with slotting the holes.

And yes you do gain a tiny bit of camber lowering the front end. I can confirm that certainly as well.
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:55 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by glamcem View Post
Do you have a part number or any link ?
Thanks again
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...11&postcount=1
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Old 03-28-2014, 02:11 PM   #14
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I bet you could get -2 up front (and possibly more) by doubling up on the OEM available crash bolt. Someone else with a more structural background would have to comment on how advisable that is.

But I'd feel better with the OEM crash bolt vs. aftermarket - the threaded portion is still the same dia/pitch and the torque/clamping force is still the same as stock. The aftermarket ones (at least the SPC) are narrower and have a lower torque spec.
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