Clutch Engagement Improved! - Page 4 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

subiestyle · 03-10-2014, 02:43 PM

i'm down for 1 as well.

brzadmir · 03-10-2014, 09:36 PM

Count me in as well!

J.C. · 03-10-2014, 11:34 PM

@JDKand527 I'm in for a kit as well.

Wepeel · 03-11-2014, 10:11 AM

I'm in for $10.

Quote:

Originally Posted by regal

Is the clutch rlease switch down there, could be playing with fire if the ecu does see the switch and doesn't switch to the transient ignition retard table?

From what I remember of the logic I believe the transient tables were cued off of throttle pedal activity, not clutch (on/off/on rapid full throttle).

sanmarcosfrs · 03-12-2014, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enjoyminutemaid

Damn, I guess I got in before the lock on that guy. Even at $40 it would still be worth it to me, regardless of its home depot origins. Maybe contact Works directly?

That's what i wound up doing... Just bought if from works directly

imom · 03-12-2014, 09:05 PM

I still don't get it with the clutch stop...even on my M roadster I removed the clutch stop to get better shifting. I also got rid of the CDV (clutch delay valve) on it and it improved. I haven't tried to remove it on the BRZ... but why limit the clutch travel....wouldn't you want the clutch fully engage? Is there some kind of bell curve where the travel to an optimum depth gives you the best shifts and going over makes it more difficult to shift? Educate me. thanks

tomaszjanczak · 03-12-2014, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by imom

I still don't get it with the clutch stop...even on my M roadster I removed the clutch stop to get better shifting. I also got rid of the CDV (clutch delay valve) on it and it improved. I haven't tried to remove it on the BRZ... but why limit the clutch travel....wouldn't you want the clutch fully engage? Is there some kind of bell curve where the travel to an optimum depth gives you the best shifts and going over makes it more difficult to shift? Educate me. thanks

The clutch stop stops the travel to the back earlier, when you're pressing the clutch pedal. The clutch will still fully engage, the stopper doesn't affect that. The reason you would want the stopper is to shorten the distance between the spot when you fully press the clutch and the point when the clutch starts to engage. The clutch stop really helped me with shifting, I am much smoother now and can shift fast but still smooth. It feels much more natural. Of course, a good driver can probably drive great without the stopper, but I like having it a lot.

JDKane527 · 03-19-2014, 02:48 AM

Attached is the photo of the factory clutch pedal travel stop, circled in red. The second picture is of the new clutch pedal travel stop. It is a harder rubber (70A Durometer) than stock.

Included with my kit are 4 washers, 1 thick (0.125 inch) and 3 thin (0.05 inch) so there is more range of adjustment. I have chosen to include a serrated flange nut as opposed to a nylock nut as the bumper stud is only 0.375 inches in length, and with washers installed, the threads may not thread into the nylon portion of the nut. The serrated portion secures the assembly to the metal bracket.

Recommended no more than 0.13 inch total height of washers installed. Personally I use no washers since I have adjusted the height of the clutch pedal already and removed the spring.
If the washer height is too tall, it may even make it impossible to start the engine. The sensors for the clutch pedal may have to be adjusted as a result of this. With 0 washers installed, it should cause no issue with starting the car. Everyone's car is different and some may be able to use washers, some may not, depending on the clutch.

It won't necessarily make your car any faster, just changes the feel of the clutch pedal. I found it is more predictable with this stopper in place.

You don't need to pay $24 for a kit like this.

JDKane527 · 04-01-2014, 12:40 AM

Posted DIY

86prime · 07-30-2018, 01:05 PM

The pathetic piece of rubber from the factory disintegrated in 3k miles. The Works Kick clutch pedal stop is awesome, should be a factory part (ya know, like a supercharger). It gets rid of the dead zone at the bottom AND largely negates that mushy region where the pedal spring is working against you, so you don't even have to remove that spring. Much better clutching experience!

gpvecchi · 07-30-2018, 01:56 PM

Subscribed...

86prime · 11-07-2018, 06:31 PM

Sadly, as you can see here, the rubber stop is dying after a few thousand miles. What's a better solution? Metal?

03-19-2014, 02:48 AM	#50
JDKane527 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Drives: Asphalt Scion FR-S Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 499 Thanks: 274 Thanked 215 Times in 136 Posts Mentioned: 10 Post(s)	Attached is the photo of the factory clutch pedal travel stop, circled in red. The second picture is of the new clutch pedal travel stop. It is a harder rubber (70A Durometer) than stock. Included with my kit are 4 washers, 1 thick (0.125 inch) and 3 thin (0.05 inch) so there is more range of adjustment. I have chosen to include a serrated flange nut as opposed to a nylock nut as the bumper stud is only 0.375 inches in length, and with washers installed, the threads may not thread into the nylon portion of the nut. The serrated portion secures the assembly to the metal bracket. Recommended no more than 0.13 inch total height of washers installed. Personally I use no washers since I have adjusted the height of the clutch pedal already and removed the spring. If the washer height is too tall, it may even make it impossible to start the engine. The sensors for the clutch pedal may have to be adjusted as a result of this. With 0 washers installed, it should cause no issue with starting the car. Everyone's car is different and some may be able to use washers, some may not, depending on the clutch. It won't necessarily make your car any faster, just changes the feel of the clutch pedal. I found it is more predictable with this stopper in place. You don't need to pay $24 for a kit like this. Attached Images __________________ Asphalt Build Last edited by JDKane527; 03-20-2014 at 04:39 PM.

04-01-2014, 12:40 AM	#51
JDKane527 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Drives: Asphalt Scion FR-S Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 499 Thanks: 274 Thanked 215 Times in 136 Posts Mentioned: 10 Post(s)	Posted DIY __________________ Asphalt Build

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03-10-2014, 02:43 PM	#43
subiestyle Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Drives: 2014 Monogram FR-S White MT Location: San Francisco Posts: 433 Thanks: 62 Thanked 106 Times in 68 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s)	i'm down for 1 as well.

03-10-2014, 09:36 PM	#44
brzadmir Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Drives: 13' BRZ, 05' 325xi, 02' RAV4 Location: Queens Posts: 203 Thanks: 6 Thanked 29 Times in 24 Posts Mentioned: 2 Post(s)	Count me in as well!

03-10-2014, 11:34 PM	#45
J.C. Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Drives: '13 Raven FR-S Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 227 Thanks: 57 Thanked 62 Times in 44 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s)	@JDKand527 I'm in for a kit as well.

03-12-2014, 09:05 PM	#48
imom Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Drives: BRZ sold Location: CAL Posts: 158 Thanks: 29 Thanked 22 Times in 18 Posts Mentioned: 2 Post(s)	I still don't get it with the clutch stop...even on my M roadster I removed the clutch stop to get better shifting. I also got rid of the CDV (clutch delay valve) on it and it improved. I haven't tried to remove it on the BRZ... but why limit the clutch travel....wouldn't you want the clutch fully engage? Is there some kind of bell curve where the travel to an optimum depth gives you the best shifts and going over makes it more difficult to shift? Educate me. thanks

07-30-2018, 01:05 PM	#52
86prime Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Drives: 18 BRZ tS Location: NorCal Posts: 108 Thanks: 21 Thanked 51 Times in 29 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s)	The pathetic piece of rubber from the factory disintegrated in 3k miles. The Works Kick clutch pedal stop is awesome, should be a factory part (ya know, like a supercharger). It gets rid of the dead zone at the bottom AND largely negates that mushy region where the pedal spring is working against you, so you don't even have to remove that spring. Much better clutching experience!

07-30-2018, 01:56 PM	#53
gpvecchi Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Drives: Toyota 86 GT Limited PP (Model G) Location: Italy Posts: 1,052 Thanks: 414 Thanked 359 Times in 202 Posts Mentioned: 14 Post(s)	Subscribed...

11-07-2018, 06:31 PM	#54
86prime Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Drives: 18 BRZ tS Location: NorCal Posts: 108 Thanks: 21 Thanked 51 Times in 29 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s)	Sadly, as you can see here, the rubber stop is dying after a few thousand miles. What's a better solution? Metal?

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