JDL Auto Design - 2014 Exhaust Products

[digital_assassin]

Originally Posted by Jesse@JDLAutodesign

I'm gonna get my car on the lift over the weekend and check it out. We've been slammed getting orders out. I'm anxious to know.

I'm anxious to hear if the EL will work with the KW as well. I'm in the market for Header and 3" all the way back. Need to talk to you guys about 3" OP and FP at a minimum since you dont have a CBE yet.

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by DAN_BRZ

how accurate are virtual dynos? those number are impressive considering you still have the stock op/fp.

Depends on driving conditions, how flat the road is, accuracy of car data etc. I was doing virtual dyno set to 'dynojet' on a specific piece of road before putting my car on a MAHA (reads quite low) and with the settings I was using it was within a few %. But I was using slightly different settings than others and it seems now that it is colder it may be less accurate. If the pulls are on the same road, and in the same climate conditions fairly close together then it can actually show a realistic difference. I have used it from time to time on street tuning but doesn't work for very minor adjustments.

So using it as before & after, as long as temperature is the same (verify your atmospheric pressure & temperature and take notes) if its more than a few % difference than it can be seen as a positive way to check for gain. But using it for actual WHP #'s is not very dependable.

I also notice that your running a good half a point and or more AFR richer in the "after" plot. If by chance it is fuel trim related then once it leans out gains may be better.

[SpatulaCS]

Installed the UEL headers today and took the car for a quick spin. Initial impressions were good. I haven't received the OFT yet so this is based just on the header but the difference in power is noticeable. Revs through the powerband much quicker and the torque dip definitely feels smaller.

The sound though.......wow! The car is a little louder than I was hoping for but I was expecting this due to removing a cat from the system. That subie rumble is fierce. Still no drone but open up the throttle and prepare to change your pants! Sounds very clean and crisp with no rasp. Definitely happy with it.

Unfortunately, I have a leak somewhere. I'm assuming it's due to the inner bolts connecting the header to the engine as, even with an elbow joint, they are difficult to tighten down. The car didn't throw any codes though but I'm not entirely sure if it would with a small leak there. I'll give all the bolts a once over tomorrow and hopefully that'll take care of it.

Once the OFT shows up and I get the new tune on there, I'm sure this car will really come alive!

[IAmNotTheDriftKing]

I think I also have a leak in the headers. I hear a slight ticking on partial throttle but not at WOT or idle. I am not 100% sure if it is leaking or not though. Anyone know how to tell for sure, and is it bad to drive a few hundred miles on a leak, I can't get to it til next weekend!

Also, I got a CEL for a missing cat. I have heard that this shouldn't cause issues, but is it true? I am planning on getting a tune in May sometime.

[Pen.suhl]

Originally Posted by Jesse@JDLAutodesign

What is you're order number? We have 6 shipping tomorrow. I'm betting you're probably one of those if its been 6 weeks.

#1306?

[JDLAutoDesign]

Called the coater on that today. Will be shipping tomorrow

[BatStig]

Originally Posted by JDLAutoDesign

Called the coater on that today. Will be shipping tomorrow

Anybody else shipping tomorrow?

[JDLAutoDesign]

A bunch of UELs. We have the ELs being built

[SpatulaCS]

Originally Posted by IAmNotTheDriftKing

I think I also have a leak in the headers. I hear a slight ticking on partial throttle but not at WOT or idle. I am not 100% sure if it is leaking or not though. Anyone know how to tell for sure, and is it bad to drive a few hundred miles on a leak, I can't get to it til next weekend!

Also, I got a CEL for a missing cat. I have heard that this shouldn't cause issues, but is it true? I am planning on getting a tune in May sometime.

I also have the ticking (mine is fine at idle and low partial throttle but starts ticking at maybe 50-100% throttle) along with exhaust smell from the engine bay. I'm hoping I'll be able to tighten the bolts more but if not I'll be SOL.

I have an o2 spacer and haven't gotten the CEL so you may want to look into that if you don't want the light.

[IAmNotTheDriftKing]

Originally Posted by SpatulaCS

I also have the ticking (mine is fine at idle and low partial throttle but starts ticking at maybe 50-100% throttle) along with exhaust smell from the engine bay. I'm hoping I'll be able to tighten the bolts more but if not I'll be SOL.

I have an o2 spacer and haven't gotten the CEL so you may want to look into that if you don't want the light.

You are usually supposed to retighten the header bolts after a week or so. I can't do it this weekend, but next weekend I definitely will! Try getting some thicker gaskets as that can fix the problem as well.

And doesn't a spacer mess with AFR readings?

[SpatulaCS]

Originally Posted by IAmNotTheDriftKing

You are usually supposed to retighten the header bolts after a week or so. I can't do it this weekend, but next weekend I definitely will! Try getting some thicker gaskets as that can fix the problem as well.

And doesn't a spacer mess with AFR readings?

I put new Grimmspeed gaskets in for the engine/header connection. The provided gasket for the overpipe doesn't instill much confidence. I don't believe that is the source of the leak though but I'll check anyway.

I'm pretty sure the primary o2 sensor is for the AFR readings, not the secondary, so a spacer on the secondary o2 sensor should be fine. I'm not an expert though so somebody else may have a better answer. A lot of people seem to use them without issues though.

[FR-S Matt]

That ticking noise you hear on cold start I believe is normal. I have all Grimmspeed gaskets on the header, OP in both spots. I get the noise only on cold start. 0 exhaust smell. I believe it's due to the thinner walls of the header.

Wish there was a better tool to use to torque the bolts on the header. I was using knuckle joints to get to some of them.

[JDLAutoDesign]

We had a similar ticking with a local car. I loosened the nuts on the head flanges, torqued the pass side first (stating with the single nut then working to the 2 rear), then the same thing on the drivers side. That cleared up the ticking.

[FR-S Matt]

Originally Posted by JDLAutoDesign

We had a similar ticking with a local car. I loosened the nuts on the head flanges, torqued the pass side first (stating with the single nut then working to the 2 rear), then the same thing on the drivers side. That cleared up the ticking.

Looks like you gave me something to do this weekend. I thought it was my gaskets so I got the best ones. May just need a good proper torquing. The 20 ft lbs sure feels light connected to the block. I'll give this a shot and report back. If there is a leak, it is extremely minor and I cannot smell anything at all. Only occurred during cold start.

Also Ronnie/Jesse, what tool are you guys using to torque these nuts around the crazy bends on the runners? 0 issues getting to two of them, but there's one on both sides that is rough to hit with an extension and knucklejoints.