A simpler spring/strut install DIY -- no compressor needed

[ron_n_tx]

This worked great - installed Eibach Sportlines today @DIY Austin.

[psk]

were there any photos to your original post @jeebus ?

[jeebus]

Originally Posted by psk

were there any photos to your original post @jeebus ?

whoops...I dropped that old web host. I just uploaded the pics directly to the forum now.

[psk]

thank you! i'll be looking to throw a set of eibach pro's on this month.

[F1fletch]

My Swifts are on their way, this will help greatly with the install.

Does anyone know the correct torque Values for top nuts F&R, bottom shock/strut bolts and sway bar links?

Thanks

[Stevo22]

Originally Posted by F1fletch

My Swifts are on their way, this will help greatly with the install.

Does anyone know the correct torque Values for top nuts F&R, bottom shock/strut bolts and sway bar links?

Thanks

I think all the torque values are in the DIY darrendriven did that is linked in the first post of this thread. Here is the link again

[Scion F ARE S]

How would you torque the top hat nut that requires the allen tool? Do you just estimate the amount of torque with your best judgment?

[Fizz]

With a socket (for a pass through socket set), crow foot and torque wrench. And an Allen key to hold the piston rod in place.

[bryan767]

Originally Posted by CaptainSlow

One additional plus about doing it this way (at least this worked for me...I make no guarantees) is that you don't actually have to remove the front struts. You disconnect the lines and the sway bar and you can pull the strut down and rotate it out far enough to swap the springs and bump stops without removing the strut at all!

I was hoping this was the case. I figured it was possible! Thanks for confirming

[no chrome]

Bumping to top for everyone!

[flashburn]

Originally Posted by Fizz

With a socket (for a pass through socket set), crow foot and torque wrench. And an Allen key to hold the piston rod in place.

I'm confused by this... how does the torque wrench and the crow foot come into play? At first I thought it would go on the allen key, but since that's for keeping the piston for spinning, that can't be what it's for I don't think?

[was385]

Originally Posted by flashburn

I'm confused by this... how does the torque wrench and the crow foot come into play? At first I thought it would go on the allen key, but since that's for keeping the piston for spinning, that can't be what it's for I don't think?

I believe the people doing it have been grinding down a socket to fit in to the crow foot, so you use it to torque the nut with the Allen key holding the piston still. I didn't want to deal and ended up torquing a bolt to the correct torque and then estimating that feel on the strut with a normal pass through socket wrench.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[flashburn]

Originally Posted by was385

I believe the people doing it have been grinding down a socket to fit in to the crow foot, so you use it to torque the nut with the Allen key holding the piston still. I didn't want to deal and ended up torquing a bolt to the correct torque and then estimating that feel on the strut with a normal pass through socket wrench.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ah, okay. Yeah I think I'd just be better off doing it by feel then too. Thanks!

[oaroyale]

You don't have to grind the socket with these pass through sockets.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F3ZY4Y0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395064388&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40"]BOSTITCH BTMT72287 Pass Through Socket Set, 65-Piece:Amazon:Home Improvement[/ame]

Use these sockets with a 19mm crowfoot. Make sure to adjust the torque value based on the added length of the crowfoot. You can find the formula on the internet easily. For example, instead of 42ft-lb, I ended up with 38ft-lb for the front.