207whp… NA Full Bolt On E85

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

I'll dig up some pics tomorrow and post them up (finally)!

shiv

I would like to see this as well! I planned on building a snorkel as well and testing it on the dyno back to back (with tuning to compensate). We were going to try OEM snorkel, no snorkel, cut snorkel.

[vgi]

@FrsDuke @nelsmar search, there lots of pics on OFT threads. this is one of them:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=500
some people do slightly wider opening too.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by nelsmar

Most people will come to defend E85. I am an absolute hardcore E85 fanboy. I push it to everyone I can. And I daily drive on it. However due to the young age of this platform there is no telling how E85 will handle on this platform long term. Check back in 1-2 years. Our sleeves can rust, our lines can corrode, and our filters are paper based. Other subaru's have had long term testing including submerged lines for extended periods of time for testing and showed fine. So hopefully it is the same with this car.

And when it comes to cold start, I have had no problem tuning on E85 for cold start in my region. However "cold" in my region is 30-50F. So I can't say much in regards to the more snow covered regions.

You are more than welcome to PM me if you have any questions. I am unbiased and have put ~8k miles in the last 3 months of my FRS on E85 (while it was running).

Recap: E85 is awesome. It may cause damage but time will tell. But from my point of view? Enjoy the living hell out of it!!

I've *read* that running a tank of gasoline every so often would potentially mitigate any potential corrosion issues from water on E85, but as you say it's really all conjecture until we have some history with our cars on E85. That said, I'm a fan too!


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[w00t692]

E85 is great. But it does some wacky stuff to aluminum.

Aluminum oxide, everywhere!

The listed temperatures for your cold start tuning are basically the lowermost limit for cold starting with E85. You're not starting a car on E85 when it's 15F outside very reliably. That's why once winter rolls around northern e85 stations move to a lower blend like E60.

Ethanol has a much higher evaporation point than gasoline, so it doesn't atomize well at low temperatures. Meaning it's very hard to ignite at very low temperatures. If it was E100 it literally wouldn't start without heating the fuel beforehand.

[alexand3r]

I just run about 2 Gallons of Gasoline in my tank when I fill up and don't have any issues at all. The only thing I've seen change in my logs are my LTFT goes a bit negative, which is to be expected. Timing stays full-on and my Adv. Multiplier never changes from 1.0.

I was just researching Fuel Additives for E85 to add protection/lubrication. Do you guys have any thoughts and/or recommendations on this?

Ones I was looking at were: Gold Eagle Sta-Bil and Lucas Safeguard

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

I've *read* that running a tank of gasoline every so often would potentially mitigate any potential corrosion issues from water on E85, but as you say it's really all conjecture until we have some history with our cars on E85. That said, I'm a fan too!


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Originally Posted by w00t692

E85 is great. But it does some wacky stuff to aluminum.

Aluminum oxide, everywhere!

The listed temperatures for your cold start tuning are basically the lowermost limit for cold starting with E85. You're not starting a car on E85 when it's 15F outside very reliably. That's why once winter rolls around northern e85 stations move to a lower blend like E60.

Ethanol has a much higher evaporation point than gasoline, so it doesn't atomize well at low temperatures. Meaning it's very hard to ignite at very low temperatures. If it was E100 it literally wouldn't start without heating the fuel beforehand.

I also add 1-2 teaspoons of 2 stroke oil or lucas e85 additive every few tanks. The DI system uses a fuel pump that is lubricated by the fuel system. E85 is not a good lubrication.

I also rev my car up slightly and kill the engine in hopes of getting any fuel vapors out as it could sit in the cylinder. Our engines are flat, so the fuel would sit on the sleeve not the piston.

[Shiv@Openflash]

Originally Posted by vgi

@FrsDuke @nelsmar search, there lots of pics on OFT threads. this is one of them:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=500
some people do slightly wider opening too.

That is exactly what I did. In addition to what is shown in that link, I heated the piece up with a heat gun and stretched the opening wide by putting a bottle in it and keeping it there for 20 minutes.

[FrsDuke]

Originally Posted by vgi

@FrsDuke @nelsmar search, there lots of pics on OFT threads. this is one of them:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=500
some people do slightly wider opening too.

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

That is exactly what I did. *In addition to what is shown in that link, I heated the piece up with a heat gun and stretched the opening wide by putting a bottle in it and keeping it there for 20 minutes.

What about the sound tube and resonator under the bend? I've heard peole claim low end losses from removing resonator, but I'm unclear if they mean the one on the box or the bend. Thoughts?

[vgi]

Originally Posted by FrsDuke

What about the sound tube and resonator under the bend? I've heard peole claim low end losses from removing resonator, but I'm unclear if they mean the one on the box or the bend. Thoughts?

i beleive it was the one on the box

[FrsDuke]

My thought as well, but forgive me if I want it verified by folks that have extensive Dyno time playing with setups of the stock intake

My questions remain. Is deleting the resonator under the bend going to impact things positively or negatively. Is deleting the sound tube with a plug on the bend good bad or negligible?

[Robert@Openflash]

Here you go: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=24

Hope this helps

Originally Posted by steve99

Do you have any photos/diagram of modified snorkel ?
Read some posts saying it was cut and then expanded with heat gun. Not sure where it was cut.

thanks

[FrsDuke]

I wonder if simply removing the resonators on the snorkel would help it at all. Upshot is it's reversible. If you keep the little resonators you can just rivet them back on.

[Robert@Openflash]

Resonator is for sound. Either you leave it for remove it shouldn't effect the performance in this case.

Originally Posted by FrsDuke

I wonder if simply removing the resonators on the snorkel would help it at all. Upshot is it's reversible. If you keep the little resonators you can just rivet them back on.

[FrsDuke]

Originally Posted by Robert@vishnu

Resonator is for sound. Either you leave it for remove it shouldn't effect the performance in this case.

For the snorkel I'm inclined to agree, but I'm not so sure about the one after the maf. Same goes for the sound tube it's got enough volume to act as another resonator. Wondering what if any impact is on flow/turbulence is all. I guess there would be no effect in terms of what the maf sees, but do they impact flow of the elbow. Y'all running sound tube delete and that little resonator deleted?