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#141 | |
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Senior Member
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#142 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Yo, I may as well ask again, what are the part number for the 2 hoses, 4 clamps, 2 bolts and the pipe that you used but CARNZ didn't?
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![]() Last edited by s2d4; 11-17-2013 at 08:20 AM. |
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#143 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
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The other 2 numbers you have listed only covers one hose and one pipe so it doesn't cover all of what I've been asking for the last 2 weeks. |
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#144 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 SWP BRZ
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upper hose: 807609071 Hard pipe: 21328AA230 Clamps (4): 092315002 The bolts you don't need. They are already present on the side of the block. I didn't know that though so I ordered them (808206010). If you are looking to buy this stuff, I purchased all of it (minus the lower hose) but didn't use it. PM me if you want em. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to xxscaxx For This Useful Post: | s2d4 (11-17-2013) |
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#145 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Its brass. I actually found a 3/4x3/4x3/8 plastic tee, but the 3/4 side was too big. it must have been 3/4 OD. I was pretty bummed because I thought it was going to work perfect lol. Heres a pic of it for reference (disregard the other barb fitting in the line. I had bought a 1/2-3/8 barb reducer but didn't use it): ![]() Doesn't look pretty (and it bothers me a LOT), but no leaks so whatever. I thought i'd bought the right clamps but the ones on that stock line are bigger, but i was able to get the clamps i bought on there. was very tight but it got the job done. ![]() ![]() I also looped my heater hose around the lower rad because using a straight fitting makes it hard to bend the line and i didn't want it to kink.
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#146 |
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CHECK ENGINE
Join Date: Aug 2013
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Thats one of the main reasons why I didn't do a t-fitting.
I wanted it to look and fit like stock. Props for getting it done though. Glad to see a lot of input from others on this topic, plenty ways to put this application to reality.
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i don't cry about crickets
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CARNZ For This Useful Post: | Turkish (11-17-2013) |
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#147 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Thanks again for the initial DIY. One thing I hate, is the exit line. It legit sits on the damn injector cover. I was looking at the STi concept and noticed on that cooler that the exit off the cooler is further towards the front of the car. |
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#148 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 SWP BRZ
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Just a little update:
No leaks, everything is good. Just from taking a peek at my P3 Gauge, oil temps are a few degrees cooler. I usually see a high of 206 when cruising on the highway (and this is in colder temps, it was like 55 today on the way to work), and today I saw nothing higher than 203. Normal driving around town it sits under 200, 198-199. Coolant is also 2 degrees down, was ALWAYS on 194, now its at 192. Nothing crazy, but its doing something. Can't wait to see how it reacts in the summer, as I saw 215-219 then. I can imagine once it gets even colder that the oil temp will not touch 200 degrees. |
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#149 |
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Professional Smartass
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: White Out FRS
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I need to do this. My track temps for oil were over 250F. I plan on doing this at the same time as the mishimoto radiator.
edit: I can't read... Last edited by post_break; 11-18-2013 at 03:33 PM. |
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#150 |
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CHECK ENGINE
Join Date: Aug 2013
Drives: 2004 STi
Location: White Marsh, MD
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There's a step by step diy in the first post.
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i don't cry about crickets
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#151 |
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Professional Smartass
Join Date: Jul 2012
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#152 |
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Professional Smartass
Join Date: Jul 2012
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#153 |
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CHECK ENGINE
Join Date: Aug 2013
Drives: 2004 STi
Location: White Marsh, MD
Posts: 158
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Thanked 235 Times in 63 Posts
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strange, I use Chrome and everything shows up for me
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i don't cry about crickets
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#154 |
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Professional Smartass
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: White Out FRS
Location: Houston TX
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| brz, fxt, oil, oil cooler |
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