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Old 08-20-2013, 06:47 AM   #43
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Holy crap, two pages in this thread and nobody has mentioned...

What are your intake air, oil, and coolant temperatures? Do you see signs of the coolant boiling?

intercooler sprayer isn't a bad thing but the intercooler has minimal heat transfer in the system relative to the oil, coolant, and exhaust. Try heatsoaking an STi or Evo with factory intercooler sprayer, hitting the button, and see how much your coolant temperatures go down.

Last edited by arghx7; 08-20-2013 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:02 PM   #44
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http://m.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30102029

These look promising
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:54 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by arghx7 View Post
Holy crap, two pages in this thread and nobody has mentioned...

What are your intake air, oil, and coolant temperatures? Do you see signs of the coolant boiling?

intercooler sprayer isn't a bad thing but the intercooler has minimal heat transfer in the system relative to the oil, coolant, and exhaust. Try heatsoaking an STi or Evo with factory intercooler sprayer, hitting the button, and see how much your coolant temperatures go down.
driving around on average my intake air temp is around 5-10 deg above ambient (so usually 105-110f), oil is around 220-230f, and coolant is 195-200f.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:58 PM   #46
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driving around on average my intake air temp is around 5-10 deg above ambient (so usually 105-110f), oil is around 220-230f, and coolant is 195-200f.
Yup, that's an expected range. In this case OP is reporting significant coolant loss. The main causes, besides headgasket issues, are going to be a leak or boiling. The way you diagnose a leak is with a pressure test. The way you address boiling is to either 1) raise the cooling system pressure or 2) improve the cooling capacity, especially of the engine coolant circuit, to keep the temperatures down.

Another thing that would be interesting to see are signs of engine failsafe modes kicking in due to high temperatures. You could see changes in AFR and timing at least. If we could see a log of a cold start, warm up, and basically normal around-town drive cycle for like 30 minutes it would give a good idea of what's going on with the engine.
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:14 PM   #47
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FBM Turbo Thirsty

Before I did the rad and oil cooler you noticed a significant drop in performance when the coolant temps rose to almost 3/4 on the gauge (sorry i don't have a way to tell the exact temp yet). It felt like the ecu was pulling timing to try and cool the engine.
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:51 PM   #48
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Our middle eastern climate sucks ass in summer you guys in the rest of the world can't imagine how bad it is !


Attachment 48396

This was yesterday , about 115f (46c) a normal summer day
I don't mind suffering in a Ferrari
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:50 AM   #49
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@Djen What oil & coolant temps are you seeing? And what do all your temps get to during stops/heat soak, including IAT?

Water-oil is a great plan to avoid the heat soak from air-oil lines/core. 1 quart per drive is so much, that thing must be cooking. With the stock fans on a Koyo radiator and AVO turbo kit I made it through the Aussie summer including a couple track days. Temp range 35-47c.

51c / 70 % humidity is another level of heat though!!
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:41 AM   #50
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atm im trying to figure out the AC issues I cant enter go stop traffics on this hot without AC you know.. swating etc im using cusco water to oil cooler. temp guage looks fine after done burp the rad. once we fix the sluggish idle. changing fans rad need a bit tune. if I switch AC on idle drop at times once the fans start pulling. RPM drop till it feel wanna stall the car. without AC switchd on idle stay on it position.. shit happen.
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:43 AM   #51
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@Djen What oil & coolant temps are you seeing? And what do all your temps get to during stops/heat soak, including IAT?

Water-oil is a great plan to avoid the heat soak from air-oil lines/core. 1 quart per drive is so much, that thing must be cooking. With the stock fans on a Koyo radiator and AVO turbo kit I made it through the Aussie summer including a couple track days. Temp range 35-47c.

51c / 70 % humidity is another level of heat though!!
yeah its end of season here in Kuwait suns rises its heat... damn even my dialy drive car had some heat issues sounds common and turbocharged cars will have more heat
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:55 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Dipstik-sportech View Post
Before I did the rad and oil cooler you noticed a significant drop in performance when the coolant temps rose to almost 3/4 on the gauge (sorry i don't have a way to tell the exact temp yet). It felt like the ecu was pulling timing to try and cool the engine.
yup your correct I can tell that after 1-2hour of driven in hot like this. I can feel slightly drop in performance but in highr RPM the car responde.

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Old 08-21-2013, 04:46 AM   #53
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@Djen
Today I tried my car for the first time with FBM rad, oil cooler and slim fans. as well as the turbo blanket. That set up worked much better than the factory rad with the slim fans. I can tell you its about 30% more effective. still am facing some heat according to the gauge but AC working fine. now the heat goes down very quickly unlike before.
sounds good ali, main faces trouble on stops ac cant keep up because of idle droping once AC compressor pulley start spinning it make. dropping to stalling point. me and LJ@Fullblown we goin fix it sooner

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Old 08-21-2013, 08:29 AM   #54
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three bottle of coolant additive should help little bit
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:18 PM   #55
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sounds good ali, main faces trouble on stops ac cant keep up because of idle droping once AC compressor pulley start spinning it make. dropping to stalling point. me and LJ@Fullblown we goin fix it sooner
hope so =)

btw, I told you that I will send you the link for the carbon fibre hood:

http://www.brz-parts.com/hd1213scnfrs-fa.html

I am gonna get one of these within two coming months.
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:26 PM   #56
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sounds good ali, main faces trouble on stops ac cant keep up because of idle droping once AC compressor pulley start spinning it make. dropping to stalling point. me and LJ@Fullblown we goin fix it sooner
when you have the latest map your car will idle correctly. however, the pulley will work fine. but mine idles normally but when the heat was going up, 3/4 approx straight away the AC doesnt work. same as my other car I use to have the same issue with heat and it effects the AC. I am just telling you what I faced on this car and previous I might be wrong.
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