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#29 |
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I swapped all the fluids in the car today, 300V in the engine, Gear300 in the transmission and rear end. Happy to report the shifting feels much smoother and less notchy.
The job was very easy too once you take the transmission guard plate off. To do the differential and rear end all you need is a 10mm allen socket. The Motul bottle has a little filler built into it, that makes the job pretty easy. Adam |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to No Limit Motorsport For This Useful Post: | MattR (09-26-2012) |
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#30 | |
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Love Boost!!!!!!!!
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Quote:
__________________
༼ つ ◕_◕ ༽つ I LOVE BOOST ༼ つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
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#31 |
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AutoX Addict
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I was wondering the same thing.
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2013 BRZ Limited- GBS - 6MT -VIN #0937 ~~NYR SCCA # 18 C Street R (CSR)~~ "But there’s no mistaking the noise. This car is loud, and not in a particularly nice way. There’s no crisp exhaust note, no induction wheezing. It’s just the sound of petrol exploding in a metal box." - Jeremy Clarkson |
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#32 |
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If you can get the car high enough in the air, it should be straight forward
Last edited by No Limit Motorsport; 09-26-2012 at 07:57 AM. |
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#33 |
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Member
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Has anyone used GL 5 75W90 in their transmission? Or subaru special - S STI oil?
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#34 |
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Senior Member
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I would try to avoid a GL-5. GL-4 should be safe.
I did mine on jackstands...no problems. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to roddy For This Useful Post: | Skye (09-25-2012) |
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#35 |
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Posted a couple questions on your facebook page, how do you like the 300v now that you have put it in the car? I'm probably going to try it next time at 7500 miles and do the rear diff fluid at 10k.
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#36 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Last edited by No Limit Motorsport; 09-26-2012 at 08:22 AM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to No Limit Motorsport For This Useful Post: | F1point4 (09-26-2012) |
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#37 | |
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Photo Specialist
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Despite the differences, I'd put my faith in Subaru's technical writers since they build the cars. Here is the page from my FR-S manual. ![]() FRS_MTF_Recommendation by VictorN07, on Flickr |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to F1point4 For This Useful Post: | roddy (09-26-2012) |
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#38 |
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I read the manual and mine reads like the 2nd one posted... As I said above, GL4 should be fine. SOME GL5s are ok, while others contain additives that are not friendly to "yellow metals" (like brass) that are used in transmission synchros. To be safe, I would only use a GL5 oil in the differential.
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#39 |
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Banned
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search the forum for pentosin
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#40 |
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Banned
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Bringing a thread back from the dead,
But, its funny how every one attacked OP , yet TRD fluids being supplied in NZ, are pretty well bang on with what OP was thinking of using. Seeing as TRD oils are basically a premium factory option, it would take a fair bit of confidence to say that TRD are wrong. Link for reference http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29022 Last edited by diss7; 07-31-2013 at 08:43 PM. Reason: Link added |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to diss7 For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (07-31-2013) |
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#41 | |
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Senior Member
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I think you're just showing off that Kiwi's get this new special API SN Motul 0W-20, while we still have the old API SM Motul Eco-lite 0W-20. ![]() -Dennis |
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#42 | |
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Banned
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And so we should get the best stuff here, after all they charge us 50-100% more for things that you guys get! Ha ha $45k for car, $2.50/L for gas etc. |
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