Safe/reliable amount of Hp range for BRZ

[AVodka14]

Originally Posted by lexusb3

as soon as i did 4+ it lasted like a week and i was like ok i think i need more hahaha its like the att&t commerical with the little kids "we want more we want more "

Ahhh, to be a human being. Will we ever be satisfied

[AVodka14]

Originally Posted by suaveflooder

Exactly what I'm doing. The car will be paid off in about two years. I will give it until then to let all the FI companies come up with a reliable boosted setup. So far, the kits available seem pretty stout and well built! If they hold up like they are so far, I will be good to go! I fully plan on running 300 to the wheels on a daily driven FRS.

I am on the same boat. Lots of good results thus far. I am going to build the motor first so I can add enough boost to put it in the high HP and TQ ranges. I want to to drive away after installation giggling like a little girl about how bad ass the car is

[AVodka14]

Definitely something I did not experience after driving away with the TURD supercharger installed on my 05 tC. I felt quite deflated. It has taken some good amount of work to put the car where it should have been after installation. Centrifugal SCs work best on higher displacement applications. Turbos are perfect for 4 cylinders!

[cf6mech]

For the OP, 400whp yields a very short life for OEM rod bearings. Personal experience. That was on a Mustang dyno,E85, and 17 to 20 psi of boost. If its your daily I wouldn't go over 10 psi until King or ACL comes out with a race bearing for this engine, there are a few shops ,very few, machining rods to except ACL's in the mean time for the bigger higher horsepower engines.

[lexusb3]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

For the OP, 400whp yields a very short life for OEM rod bearings. Personal experience. That was on a Mustang dyno,E85, and 17 to 20 psi of boost. If its your daily I wouldn't go over 10 psi until King or ACL comes out with a race bearing for this engine, there are a few shops ,very few, machining rods to except ACL's in the mean time for the bigger higher horsepower engines.

How long did you drive it I'm beating on 400+ hp and its still going hard I'm at
10,000 miles !?

[WRBRZ]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

For the OP, 400whp yields a very short life for OEM rod bearings. Personal experience. That was on a Mustang dyno,E85, and 17 to 20 psi of boost. If its your daily I wouldn't go over 10 psi until King or ACL comes out with a race bearing for this engine, there are a few shops ,very few, machining rods to except ACL's in the mean time for the bigger higher horsepower engines.

I too am curious. 10psi is the limit for what I want to accomplish, so it'll be within that range, but 10psi on the FA20Club kit may be different than 10psi on another kit. Maybe I'm wrong, who knows, but I want a reliable 280-330whp that I can beat on. I've driven around 580awhp, and it's too much power for local streets. That amount of whp also brings about a host of other problems.

I wish there were kits with better heat shielding around the turbo.

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by WRBRZ

I wish there were kits with better heat shielding around the turbo.

Ptuning has a setup that keeps the turbo out of the engine bay if it's heat soak you're concerned about.

[lexusb3]

Originally Posted by WRBRZ

I too am curious. 10psi is the limit for what I want to accomplish, so it'll be within that range, but 10psi on the FA20Club kit may be different than 10psi on another kit. Maybe I'm wrong, who knows, but I want a reliable 280-330whp that I can beat on. I've driven around 580awhp, and it's too much power for local streets. That amount of whp also brings about a host of other problems.

I wish there were kits with better heat shielding around the turbo.

My 5psi did 286 on stock exhaust and full exhaust if I remember like 293 or something so I'm sure 8-10psi will do wonders for you I have to dig up what 10psi did for me because I forgot and I've yet to have overheating problems.. Florida temp at 94 degrees today and I'm abusing 12psi right now lol

[ptuning]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

Ptuning has a setup that keeps the turbo out of the engine bay if it's heat soak you're concerned about.

Thanks! Yes, low mount behind the front axle line.

[suaveflooder]

Originally Posted by ptuning

Thanks! Yes, low mount behind the front axle line.

I LOVE this kit!!!

[cf6mech]

Originally Posted by lexusb3

How long did you drive it I'm beating on 400+ hp and its still going hard I'm at
10,000 miles !?

400 bhp or 400 whp,....I was at 400 whp measured on a Mustang dyno (a very conservative Dyno) and like Crawford and a few others, found the limitations to the FA20. Just reporting the facts,...I got a few hundred miles of spirited,...and on some days just cruising miles before the dreaded rattle sound , which I caught in time before it really got expensive. The OEM bearings are very hard,...have a lot of plating, and designed to keep lubricated a 200bhp engine crank and rod, not double the power (so I'm expensively learning). Also you got to figure in the angle of the rod, (another well pointed out fact told to me by someone much smarter)....its not like a straight 4 or 6 or V engine or even most other Subaru's, the piston pin to crank angle is not straight, this offset puts more than usual loading to the bearing, for the sake of argument of other engines pulling higher numbers with OEM bearings.

[Sbeezy]

Originally Posted by cf6mech

400 bhp or 400 whp,....I was at 400 whp measured on a Mustang dyno (a very conservative Dyno) and like Crawford and a few others, found the limitations to the FA20. Just reporting the facts,...I got a few hundred miles of spirited,...and on some days just cruising miles before the dreaded rattle sound , which I caught in time before it really got expensive. The OEM bearings are very hard,...have a lot of plating, and designed to keep lubricated a 200bhp engine crank and rod, not double the power (so I'm expensively learning). Also you got to figure in the angle of the rod, (another well pointed out fact told to me by someone much smarter)....its not like a straight 4 or 6 or V engine or even most other Subaru's, the piston pin to crank angle is not straight, this offset puts more than usual loading to the bearing, for the sake of argument of other engines pulling higher numbers with OEM bearings.

was this on your built engine? if so

[cf6mech]

Originally Posted by Sbeezy

was this on your built engine? if so

Ahhhh no!,...Pauter just about like everyone else, wise ass. The point was the offset not the pretty picture, go back to the crayons and coloring book.

[ultra]

In response to the OP - if you're interested in 'safe and reliable' horsepower then the best bet is to sit back and wait a year or two while the early adopters do all the real world R&D work for you.

There's plenty of variety in terms of forced induction options on the market but based on the threads on this board peoples' real world experiences seem to vary quite a bit. For every 'w00t big whp' thread on these boards it seems that there's a nightmare thread where somebody had installation issues, tuning issues or low whp results with the same kits. No exceptions for any particular vendor's kit it seems.

The key to the successful builds seems to be a matter of carefully chosen supoorting mods and having a very skilled installer *and* tuner on hand locally.

Even then my perspective is that most people are in 'fingers crossed' mode since the installs are all so newly done.

We're far from having a huge wealth of reliability data to look at so IMO, even fiveen the high quality of most of the kits on the market already, the 'install and forget it' type of 'safe and reliable' kit doesn't exist yet.

You need a tuner's mindset, local support and a willingness to accept the possibility of a failure when going FI at this stage.