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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#1 |
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A.K.A. Starlord
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Options for Jacking the Vehicle?
I know most people wouldn't be this picky, but I'm OCD so... yeah.
My last car had 286k miles when I sold it, and the pinch welds (jack points) were completely destroyed. So far, I have been using the stock jack to lift the car, which fits around the pinch weld properly. I've avoided doing any work that required more than one corner up at a time, which meant I was able to avoid using jack stands, as they can damage pinch welds. My first oil change was done on ramps. I'd like to figure out a better way of doing things. Initially I wanted something akin to Race Ramps. Where I could drive the car up on full-length ramps and be done with it. It's the simplest solution for general maintenance that doesn't involve taking a wheel off. However, those ramps are expensive as F*CK! What other solutions are there for someone as OCD as me? Are there jacks that are shaped to go around pinch welds properly? Most of them seem to just be U-shaped. I've heard about buying some hockey pucks and slicing them, etc... I've even looked at those wheel cribs. What's the best option? Jack stands with a proper resting surface? Or some platforms to jack the wheels on to? I also want the car to be high enough for me to properly be able to work on it. Does a good hydraulic jack raise the car high enough for me to be able to get, say, a 12" block under each tire? What are my options? I've worked on my own car for 8 years, and yet I've only ever used the factory jack and a pair of jackstands because I just never got around to buying a proper one. |
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#2 |
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I use this with my normal jack. Never had an issue with the pinch welds.. and I change wheels probably once every two weeks.
http://protechproducts.com/index.php...ory&path=35_37 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mav1178 For This Useful Post: | nzer (06-27-2015) |
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#3 |
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Stole my avy from zGrinch
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You can buy covers for your jackstands - a buddy of mine has them and I believe they're silicone with slots cut out for the pinchwelds. Worked great when he came over and helped me get my catback on.
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2015 Audi /S3 | Panther Black | DSG Gone...2014 BRZ, 2010 Lexus IS F-Sport, 2006 Mazda MX5, 1997 Mustang GT |
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#4 |
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There are now 2 carseats!
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Hockey puck with a slice in it...although I'm sure someone could find a way to make it dangerous.
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#5 | |
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Quote:
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#6 |
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Did the same when I installed my exhaust. I did buy new pucks where I'll do a better job in sawing the slit, one of them almost went through the puck.
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#7 |
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Since you're looking or various jacking options- You can use the front cross member and rear diff as jack points. You'll need a very low profile jack like this one from HF to reach the rear diff once the front end is up. Raise the front, set jackstands, raise the rear, set jackstands, done. Use some pinch weld blocks as noted above.
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#8 |
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I bought a low profile jack from Costco a few years back and that's what I use. I jack it up from the front crossmember with a piece of wood between the jack and crossmember and the rear from the diff. I slowly lower it down on the stands at the pinch welds and haven't had any problems with them bending at all
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#9 |
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A.K.A. Starlord
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It's mind-boggling that there are so many results for people looking for "pinch weld compatible" jack stands, and yet nobody has created a jack stand that mimics the factory spare jack's head design. I feel like I could make quite a bit of money if I just manufactured and sold replacement jack stand "struts" with that head design.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Stang70Fastback For This Useful Post: | TM (06-26-2015) |
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#10 |
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I made my own ramps, out of 2x8 (or 10). The bottom board is extra long, because I lowered the car, and added an STI front lip, so I needed to get the nose up before it hit the top step. It makes it, but just barely. Later I cut the bottom two steps, so they were removable, so you can get a jack under the front side jack post if needed.
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#11 | |
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Quote:
Imagine trying to use the stock jackstand head for a frame rail, or a rear axle, or a subframe mounting point, or anything that isn't a pinch weld. As much as we love to work on our own cars, the factory spare jack uses the pinch weld only because it's a convenient place to jack up a car in an emergency situation. In virtually every other situation, an experienced mechanic will tell you to jack up the car on a point where it puts the least amount of stress into the chassis. -alex |
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#12 |
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A.K.A. Starlord
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I'm not talking about the jacking of it though. Regardless of where you jack it you still end up setting it back down on the pinch welds. I don't know about you, but I'd gladly buy a second set of stands if they had the OEM style head.
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#13 |
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I've been using Esco jack stands which is essentially mimic a 4 point lift (flat rubber tops). To minimize the jacking angle, I first lift the front onto rhino ramps, then jack the rear onto the stands, then jack the front onto stands. No problems with my pinch welds and I've left my car on the stands for days at a time. If you're really paranoid you can even put slitted hockey pucks onto these stands although not necessary IMO.
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#14 |
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Time Traveller
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Screw hockey pucks, get this...
https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-jack-adapter.html It's $20 and worth every penny.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to DAEMANO For This Useful Post: | nzer (06-27-2015) |
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