Issue with camber plate

[ZionsWrath]

I installed raceseng cascam on stock suspension. Had a problem with the center shock nut coming loose. The Blue Loctite fixed the issue for a bit. I did 3 events (3 days in a row) and put about 1000 miles on them and didn't have a problem.

On the drive home they started clunking badly. Same sound as when they were loose the first time, but now they are still tight and trying to tighten them does nothing and the sound is still there.

It is a really awful sound and I am worried to drive the car. I checked the rest of the suspension parts and nothing is loose. The sound is definitely coming from the top part of the suspension.

Is it possible I blew the shocks or something? I don't really know where else to look.

[ExxelDistributions]

had the same issue as yours with the noise not the part where they come loose. ended up removing them from my kw v3's. need to install them back again just dont want to hear the noise

[ZionsWrath]

So just remove and reinstall them?

[Raceseng]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

So just remove and reinstall them?

Please email me info@raceseng.com to discuss. I will get you taken care of.

Thanks

[cdrazic93]

He gotchyo back bruh.

[ZionsWrath]

No luck. Everything appears tight. No evidence of anything loose like rubbing marks around any fasteners. Shocks not leaking oil.

Can not reproduce sound unless driving. Happens on bumpy roads like city streets. Silent on flat roads.

Any ideas? Should I hit the center shock nut with an impact? It is tight with hand tools.

[Raceseng]

The spherical bearing might be loose from the first 2 times the shock nut came loose. The direct pounding on the bearing could have ruined the teflon liner.

Did you try calling the shop number I gave you to talk in person?

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

No luck. Everything appears tight. No evidence of anything loose like rubbing marks around any fasteners. Shocks not leaking oil.

Can not reproduce sound unless driving. Happens on bumpy roads like city streets. Silent on flat roads.

Any ideas? Should I hit the center shock nut with an impact? It is tight with hand tools.

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by Raceseng

The spherical bearing might be loose from the first 2 times the shock nut came loose. The direct pounding on the bearing could have ruined the teflon liner.

Did you try calling the shop number I gave you to talk in person?

Yes i spoke to ryan. Any way i can check that?

[Raceseng]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

Yes i spoke to ryan. Any way i can check that?

Got yah, if you need to call back... Ask for me, Jarrett

[ZionsWrath]

[wparsons]

You won't see internal damage on the bearing from an external shot, if you have the bearing loose you can probably feel extra play (there should be none) though.

[ZionsWrath]

I disassembled the passenger side today. Took the whole thing out.

Bearing moves smoothly. No play. No noise. Reassembled everything, new blue loctite on fasteners.

Sound is still there. Occurs much more when single wheel is driving over bumps, not much if any when both wheels go over something, like an expansion joint.

I noticed this damage to the spring perch. It may be from an incorrect bolt on initial install which has since been replaced but I can't be sure.

[wparsons]

Check your swaybar endlinks too.

[whataboutbob]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Check your swaybar endlinks too.

This. If the bolt holding the endlink to the swaybar or the bolt holding the endlink to the strut/coilover is loose, you'll get clunking when there is an uneven load on the swaybar. A case where this can happen is when you are entering a driveway and one side of the front suspension becomes loaded while the other is not. In this case there is the most extreme load on the front swaybar and if the endlinks aren't REALLY tight, you can get clunking. I've encountered this problem more than once on my car. It is a good idea to check the nuts on the endlinks from time to time as they may come loose even if you tightened them properly during the initial install. I've also found that depending on which endlinks you are running, it may be necessary to put a 3/8" fender washer on both sides of the mounting point for the endlink to get them to snugly tighten up.