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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ

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Old 11-05-2014, 02:06 PM   #1
SeanRTR
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41K+ Miles No issues

My FR-S now has 41k miles...and it really doesn't need shit. My Koni shocks make some rattle/clunk like noises at very low speed on very bad roads, but that's to be expected I think.

I've done nothing so far except change the oil. Does anyone else have this kind of milage and what problems (if any) have they run into?

Any reason to change the diff/trans fluid if it's shifting just fine?

I have 41k miles since Feb 2013, and I do not drive the car for 4 months out of the year minimum. The car is run hard in the summer at several autocrosses, in the Solo Nationals. Does this put excess wear on the differential fluid? I'm more concerned the diff is working properly as the transmission is fine.

I have a Cosworth Air filter, and already have a K&N ready to be put in.

I run the Joe Gibbs 5w20 Synthetic every 5k miles, HKS oil filter.

Did a quick search and didn't see anyone post any info for 40K + mile maintenance yet, so figured I'd ask if anything may need attention that I didn't think of.

Car is due for an oil change, should I change it now before I the car sits for 4 months, or let the car sit and change the oil after the winter?
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Old 11-05-2014, 03:23 PM   #2
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I am about to hit 50,000 miles and I have also not run into any major issues. If you are autocrossing I would definitely recommend you change our your diff and transmission fluid. The diff fluid is so easy to change you might as well to avoid any wear and tear issues down the road.
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:54 PM   #3
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Over 41K as well, just been following subaru's maintanence plans. OP, you may want to do the 30k mile service....
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:55 PM   #4
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I am also at 41,000 miles. No problems! A few interior rattles...

I would change all your fluids next spring. Do you store your car inside or out? I wish I had a garage.
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:58 PM   #5
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I am also at 41,000 miles. No problems! A few interior rattles...

I would change all your fluids next spring. Do you store your car inside or out? I wish I had a garage.
It's outside, but mostly covered parking...still gets partially snowed on with the wind. Just under a car port overhang at a crappy apartment complex.
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:05 AM   #6
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28,000K here. Getting ready to do the trans and diff fluid. Nothing else but oil changes and a brake fluid swap..
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Old 11-19-2014, 03:06 PM   #7
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34500, I have a fully modded car (vortech SC) and regularly HDPE. So far going well.

Some small things I had to address or will address:
1) Coil pack started going out so I replaced all spark plugs and coil packs
2) Rear passenger OEM Strut is leaking so I need a new set of those (I have RCE Yellow Springs)
3) I have leaks in all the CV Boots on both half shafts. Need to fix that
4) My OEM battery died long long ago; bad cell. Replaced with Diehard Platinum
5) I have a small oil seep in the timing chain cover on the driver side.
6) My belt is squeaking now
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:44 PM   #8
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^^ How tough is it to change the plugs? I've seen some people say it can't be done by a shadetree mechanic in his driveway.
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Old 11-20-2014, 01:37 PM   #9
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Next big maintenance is 60k. I'm just a few hundred miles shy of that myself. The dealer wants $675 for it, screw that! I already changed trans & diff oils, and just changed motor oil as well.

I also have a set of StopTech pads, some SS lines and new brake fluid sitting in my garage waiting for the day my stock pads even start to squeak. I don't think I've ever had pads last this long, but I guess that's what happens when they source brakes from cars that are at like 700 lbs. heavier.

No way I'm going to pay the dealer that much to check some fluids and full a few zerk fittings.

Complaint-wise, I've been noticing the rear shelf buzz more than usual, but I've also had the rear seat down for much longer than normal. Just too lazy to put it back up, maybe it helps hold the shelf cover in place. I've also had the HPFP replaced twice, really didn't make a difference either time, so I gave up on that "issue".

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^^ How tough is it to change the plugs? I've seen some people say it can't be done by a shadetree mechanic in his driveway.
If it's anything like previous Subarus...it really sucks if you have anything larger than a child's hands. I have a buddy with really skinny appendages and he has no issues doing this on his GD WRX. For me, it was a PITA and I broke two of the spark plug connectors on the harness and had to tape them to the valve cover afterwards (also on a GD). I'm also 6'4" and about 225#, so your mileage may vary.

I recommend reading all the DIYs carefully, then eyeballing it to see if it'll work out for you and your meat hooks. I will probably pay my skinny friend to do this for me when the time comes.
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2point0 View Post
Next big maintenance is 60k. I'm just a few hundred miles shy of that myself. The dealer wants $675 for it, screw that! I already changed trans & diff oils, and just changed motor oil as well.

I also have a set of StopTech pads, some SS lines and new brake fluid sitting in my garage waiting for the day my stock pads even start to squeak. I don't think I've ever had pads last this long, but I guess that's what happens when they source brakes from cars that are at like 700 lbs. heavier.

No way I'm going to pay the dealer that much to check some fluids and full a few zerk fittings.

Complaint-wise, I've been noticing the rear shelf buzz more than usual, but I've also had the rear seat down for much longer than normal. Just too lazy to put it back up, maybe it helps hold the shelf cover in place. I've also had the HPFP replaced twice, really didn't make a difference either time, so I gave up on that "issue".


If it's anything like previous Subarus...it really sucks if you have anything larger than a child's hands. I have a buddy with really skinny appendages and he has no issues doing this on his GD WRX. For me, it was a PITA and I broke two of the spark plug connectors on the harness and had to tape them to the valve cover afterwards (also on a GD). I'm also 6'4" and about 225#, so your mileage may vary.

I recommend reading all the DIYs carefully, then eyeballing it to see if it'll work out for you and your meat hooks. I will probably pay my skinny friend to do this for me when the time comes.


Isn't it time to change the plugs at 60K? Which officially requires lifting the engine? Maybe that is why the dealer is looking for $675. Still a lot of money.
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Old 11-21-2014, 11:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Isn't it time to change the plugs at 60K? Which officially requires lifting the engine? Maybe that is why the dealer is looking for $675. Still a lot of money.
Yeah, good call. Forgot that was a 60k thing...damnit.
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Old 11-21-2014, 12:18 PM   #12
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Isn't it time to change the plugs at 60K? Which officially requires lifting the engine? Maybe that is why the dealer is looking for $675. Still a lot of money.
Actually given that the engine has to be lifted, I'm surprised its not more. Also, interesting that this happens just as the drivetrain warranty runs out.
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:36 PM   #13
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Yeah, good call. Forgot that was a 60k thing...damnit.
If you haven't done this already try your luck with trusted shops that work on our cars/Subarus. I am getting mine done and was quoted only 1.5hrs labor for the spark plugs (I did the engine and diff oil myself already)

Edit: I should also note the plugs themselves are about $25 a piece so even then your looking at probably around $250-$300 for plugs
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Old 12-21-2014, 06:48 PM   #14
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At 36k I have a bad cv joint, replaced the sc belt as it was squeaking, changed the diff and trans fluid shortly after buying it, various interior noise (it's not a super luxury car so to be expected), rear endlink bolt (Perrin) disappeared while driving so needed a new one, oem tail lights leak but new thicker gaskets fixed it plus have Tom's now, supercharger needs a little oil every month or two, intercooler hose needed adjustment on the clamp as it was leaking. Aside from that I haven't needed to replace anything except oil. I've had it since August 2012. Trying to get the dealer to replace the cv joint but am putting the rear end back to stock so they will actually look at the car instead of saying your car has too many mods on it. Warranty will be up in August so need to convince them to fix it!
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