Attatched Spacer

[Rosticles]

I want to run a 10mm spacer on all corners, and would like them to be securely attached to the brake hats. I do not want to weld them or anything permanent, but I am concerned with them being lose when changing tires or brake pads.

My idea is to get a spacer conversion like the one below that has flush nuts for the 5x100. Then I will press out the "conversion" studs. This will allow me to tighten down the nuts to secure the spacer my 5x100 studs.



My questions are: Is this stupid?

[V3rtigo]

The lug nuts are more than enough to keep everything in place with a spacer that's sandwiched in. I'd replace the stock lugs with longer ones to make sure you are getting the right amount of thread engagement but that's it. The spacers being loose during wheel changing isn't something that you should really be worried about. Odds are they will corrode to the brake hub anyway and be stuck on.

[gramicci101]

What's the concern if the spacer is loose on the studs while you have the wheel off? It'll be tightened back down once you put the wheel back on. If you're changing brake pads and the caliper is lifted off the rotor, the rotor is loose on the wheel studs too.

Mach V's 10mm spacer comes with longer ARP studs to account for the extra length. I don't know of anyone that has a bolt-on 10mm spacer though.

[kberkel]

Originally Posted by V3rtigo

The lug nuts are more than enough to keep everything in place with a spacer that's sandwiched in. I'd replace the stock lugs with longer ones to make sure you are getting the right amount of thread engagement but that's it. The spacers being loose during wheel changing isn't something that you should really be worried about. Odds are they will corrode to the brake hub anyway and be stuck on.

.

I wouldn't worry about doing all that work.

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by Rosticles

My questions are: Is this stupid?

Yes.

Consider the case where the conversion nut is not fully tightened for some reason. When you put the wheel on you will be torquing it down against the conversion nut and NOT directly against the hat. Wobble city.

You are going to need longer studs so just get a normal 10mm spacer so that everything is compressed to the hat without any potential for problems.

[Rosticles]

Thank you all. I will take our advice, try to not let it bug me, and hope corrosion does the bonding for me.

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by Rosticles

Thank you all. I will take our advice, try to not let it bug me, and hope corrosion does the bonding for me.

You don't even want it to be corroded to the rotor. What happens when it's time to change the rotor out?

It'll be fine just sitting there, because it'll be squished between the wheel and the rotor and these wheels have a very high torque requirement. This is actually the same way the rotor is held down; there are no additional nuts or bolts securing it to the hub. The only way the spacer could come loose is if the entire wheel is coming loose. You will need longer studs, because the OEM studs are not long enough to get proper thread engagement with anything beyond a 3-5mm spacer.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Rosticles

My idea is to get a spacer conversion like the one below that has flush nuts for the stock studs. Then I will press out the "conversion" studs. This will allow me to tighten down the nuts to secure the spacer my 5x100 studs.


My questions are: Is this stupid?

Stupid? No.

But it will not work. Stock studs support no more than 3-5mm for safety reasons. If you are running a 10mm spacer, at the very least you need to get Nismo 50mm extended studs.

ARP are "ideal" but they are much longer.

-alex

[Rosticles]

I know will need extended studs, regardless. I corrected my original post, I meant to say the 5x100 studs.

[2point0]

If you properly bolt the spacers on, then mounting the wheel to them is no different than mounting them right over the rotor on the stock studs.

However, the stock studs stick out too far and the wheel will probably hit those before they sit flush against the spacer. My wheels have little pockets for this, but even then I needed over 20mm to clear the stock studs.

If you get longer hardened studs pressed into the hub and slip on a 10mm spacer, there should be nothing to worry about as long as there is plenty of thread engagement for the lug nuts.

Are you talking about using both sets of nuts on the same studs? That doesn't seem like a good idea. You're stretching the same stud in two places (torquing=stretching). I don't know what the structural concern would be, but it seems unnecessary.

[dizzario]

Originally Posted by V3rtigo

I'd replace the stock lugs with longer ones to make sure you are getting the right amount of thread engagement but that's it..

...did you mean to put 'stock studs'...?

Originally Posted by mav1178

Stupid? No.

But it will not work. Stock studs support no more than 3-5mm for safety reasons. If you are running a 10mm spacer, at the very least you need to get Nismo 50mm extended studs.

ARP are "ideal" but they are much longer.

-alex

I'm running a 5mm in the rear right now. Slip-on. I want move up to 10mm. Are you running any spacers? I'm not trying to be a ****, but it seems like a lot of this '3-5mm only' jazz is coming from peoples' asses, you know? I'm gonna have to throw both of my 5mm on one side just to check the thread engagement. Again, not trying to call you out. Just stating that I have yet to see anyone try a 10mm slip-on and realize there isn't enough thread left.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by dizzario

I'm running a 5mm in the rear right now. Slip-on. I want move up to 10mm. Are you running any spacers? I'm not trying to be a ****, but it seems like a lot of this '3-5mm only' jazz is coming from peoples' asses, you know? I'm gonna have to throw both of my 5mm on one side just to check the thread engagement. Again, not trying to call you out. Just stating that I have yet to see anyone try a 10mm slip-on and realize there isn't enough thread left.

Go for it, it's your car.

My experience stems from trying to run 5mm spacers in 1998 and snapping them on the freeway, seeing a wheel pass me as I drive...

-alex

[dizzario]

Originally Posted by mav1178

Go for it, it's your car.

My experience stems from trying to run 5mm spacers in 1998 and snapping them on the freeway, seeing a wheel pass me as I drive...

-alex

Hopefully I get a weekend off soon. I want to test the theory behind it. Rays thought that 5x100 didn't deserve any decent sizing. If they did, then we wouldn't be posting in another thread about spacers. Or, you know, Subaru could have tried a little harder and given us the better bolt pattern.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by dizzario

Hopefully I get a weekend off soon. I want to test the theory behind it. Rays thought that 5x100 didn't deserve any decent sizing. If they did, then we wouldn't be posting in another thread about spacers. Or, you know, Subaru could have tried a little harder and given us the better bolt pattern.

The general rule is to get 5 full turns on the lug nut. You need to spread the load on enough threads to not sheer the stud.

-alex