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Old 08-14-2014, 04:37 PM   #1
philooo
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Seat sub mount bar for 6 point harness

I have searched but can't find any thread showing a proper 6 point harness install.

I am looking to buy a mono daytona seat, and while I am shopping for the rest of the hardware, I can't find any rails kit offering sub mount bar

the photo below show where the harness attached under the seat onto the sub mount bar.


Can some of you guys post their setup for 6 point harness on the Scion FRS ?
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Old 08-14-2014, 06:39 PM   #2
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My personal recommendation is to mount the harness bolts to the chassis, not the seat...but I'm overkill on safety. I'll try to take some pics, but my mounting points are very similar to

The mounting point for sub belt bolts that I've always followed recommends 2" aft and 2" spread from the point where it inserts into the seat.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:51 PM   #3
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yeah, what he says, bolt it to the floor with the correct anchor, much safer.
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:59 PM   #4
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Here's how mine currently mounted in the rear with the seat sliders completely forward for my 4'10" wife. I plan on moving the seat, pedals, and steering wheel further back so that also factored into the mount positions. Plus it makes sure that no matter who is in the seat, the sub belt mounts are aft.
I like my seat attached to the cage, and since I had to add sliders to accommodate my wife, I eliminated the factory mount points. I had the cage builder weld the channel tubing to the cage, and welded the sliders on top of that. So I negated the extra inch in height, from the sliders, but people with really long torsos will not be able to drive my car.
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Old 08-15-2014, 02:21 PM   #5
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The sheet metal on the floor is completely inadequate to use for mounting your harness and even your anti-submarine belts on the FRS/BRZ.

Like OEM your lap belts will need to be mounted to the seat frame and shoulder belts to the roll bar. I made my own seat frame and then bolted the seat side mounts directly to that frame. This keeps the seat super low but I don't need forward or backward adjustment.

Now on many cars you can mount your 5th and 6th belt to the floor with an eye bolt and a small plate (fender washer is not really enough for the bottom). On our cars the metal is way too flimsy! I welded a flat piece of steel (3" wide) under the car that connects the outer frame rail to the inner (these are the same frame rails used for the OEM seat I believe) and then put the eye bolts through that.

If you don't how to properly mount your anti-submarine belts, read up on it as it requires are pretty shallow angle and you are not allowed in many racing organizations to mount it to your seat base like one post shows.

Anyways just be safe and take my advice on the floor reinforcement. I've had my fair share of race crashes and the impact force is tremendous! If your mounting points fail or even move too much you could slip out of your harness.

Thanks,
Phil Grabow
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:07 PM   #6
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My eyebolts have a .25" thick washer up top, and a 2" x 1" rectangular .025" thick backing plate underneath. Just like Phil mentioned, have someone guide you on how to mount harnesses if needed. I simply answered the question regarding the position of anti submarine. Luckily, I have an OMP rep for a friend, who got me all the needed hardware and helped me figure out the seats, harnesses, and mounting points for my specific application.
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Old 08-16-2014, 11:21 PM   #7
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Thanks for your input guys, I was indeed expecting the flooring to be too flimsy to put bolts through it.

I did not know the roll cage job could include bars under the seat where you can attach belts.

I hope more people will post their 'under seat' setup.

Phil.
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:20 AM   #8
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I'm sure your cage fabricator would have no problem making a floor reinforcement for your harnesses. The key is just not to rely on the flooring sheet metal and to weld a plate between the two frame rails that your seat bolts to.

Even my bolt in rear roll cage had such flimsy mounting points I didn't even use my harnesses at first as I felt safer in the oem 3 point. I ended up welding plates shaped like a backwards "Z" to that cross frame rail/floor. It's not built like a typical Subaru unfortunately She's light for a reason
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