Eng coolant temp sensor location

[D K]

Can someone tell me where it s located?

At Buttonwillow and the sensor is getting hot (not the coolant) causing limp mode.

David

[woode]

How do you know it's the sensor getting hot and not the coolant if you don't know where the sensor is..?

[D K]

By using common sense....

Temp gsuge stays at half then shoots to red. 30 sec later back to half

[woode]

Originally Posted by D K

By using common sense....

Temp gsuge stays at half then shoots to red. 30 sec later back to half

I'm not following. That's not using common sense at all, lol. What makes you think this is the sensor getting hot and not the coolant? This makes no sense at all..

Do you have a real gauge or reading from the ECU? What are the temps while driving and while idling when the car is showing overheated?

The gauge on the dash is essentially a fake gauge, it will only show cold/normal/hot. It doesn't linearly scale with the temperature.

Your temps are probably within operating range, then barely climbing outside normal operating temp and the gauge goes up to the red, then back down to normal where it goes back to the middle. Most modern cars are like this. The gauge is dumbed down for the masses.

[D K]

I have the aim solo dl now.

Reading 185-190 2 minutes after.

Pretty sure its the radiating heat from the header, engine and everything else.
No smell of coolant or any other symptoms.

I have a fbm radiator also so it shouldnt overheat after 3 hot laps.

So, the location?

[steve99]

http://www.ft86club.com/files/BRZwiringi.pdf

page 38 C35 E.F.I. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor looks like under intake manifold

can you monitor coolant and oil temps with torque or scantool or other device ?? might be dash guage fault or wiring, air pocket ect.

[woode]

It's towards the rear on the engine.

Did you just recently install the radiator?

Edit- Your sensor isn't getting heat soaked and giving you false readings. Your car is overheating. The gauge on the dash is going up the the red and back down to normal because of the resistors placed inline with it to scale it back and keep the needle steady all the time when it's in the normal operating temperature range. If you were to watch a linear or digital gauge and compare it to your dash gauge you would see what I am talking about.

[Captain Snooze]

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[stugray]

Originally Posted by D K

I have a fbm radiator also so it shouldnt overheat after 3 hot laps.

Ahhhh! All simple seeming questions turn out to be more complicated.

You have replaced part of your coolant system, now are having these symptoms....

Sounds like you have a large air bubble in your system.
As the bubble(s) pass the temp sensor, it is swinging all over the place.

[D K]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

.

Thank you very much.

Exactly what I neded

[woode]

I'd recommend bleeding your system man..

If your exhaust and block are getting hot enough to effect your sensor, which probe is INSIDE the engine block and 12"+ from the exhaust piping.. you would have much much bigger problems (like a car on fire).

[xwd]

I would bet quite a bit you are dealing with an air pocket like others mentioned. Seen it before plenty of times. Try turning the heat and feel the air coming out of the vents, if there is a point where it starts to not be so hot, it's an air pocket.

The ECT sensors aren't very complicated and I don't think I've ever seen one fail due to heat.

[D K]

Tried all that.....

Will try again.


Temps got to 224 after 5-6 hard laps.

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by stugray

Ahhhh! All simple seeming questions turn out to be more complicated.

You have replaced part of your coolant system, now are having these symptoms....

Sounds like you have a large air bubble in your system.
As the bubble(s) pass the temp sensor, it is swinging all over the place.

This. This is exactly what usually causes the symptoms of what OP is seeing.