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Old 01-16-2013, 01:19 AM   #1
NickFRS
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Anyone replace rotors yet?

I went to replace my rotors with DBA T3 fronts and stop tech rears but I ran into a problem.... After I put in my HAWK HPS pads I noticed the bolts that hold the piece where the pads are inserted were on really tight... I even split open my finger trying to take them off. (Hit my finger with a rubber mallet while holding the wrench) Ouch . Anyway I don't have a beaker bar.... any suggestions!? I want these acts of god... aka rotors... on my car!!! :happy0180:

P.s I've dont rotor swaps on my STi's before and they were not this tight......
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:50 AM   #2
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I didn't have any real issues. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosy. You are looking at the bolt, so make sure to visualize it properly (backwards).

I usually put a box wrench on the bracket bolts (17mm?) and hit it with a hammer (all metal hammer, not a rubber mallet). I actually use the right angle between the head of the hammer and the handle (less force, and no misses) - thus the reason for a metal handle, fiberglass or wood are going to get messed up.

A half inch drive ratchet should be good enough, just hit it with the palm of your hand. Padded gloves are suggested.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:12 AM   #3
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Garage
keep in mind you can use a hollow tube as a breaker bar. you don't necessarily have to buy a nice 24" breaker bar. just go to your local hardware store and get a hollow steel tube (shortened fence post would work) and put it over you ratchet for the extra torque that you need.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:38 AM   #4
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Get a breaker bar (air tools work too) - the bar is cheaper than the aggravation and busted fingers and it really isn't that much (I got a 36" breaker bar for $25 at Northern Tools (harbor freight would be similar Chinese made stuff anyways).
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:59 AM   #5
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Harbor Freight will sell you a breaker bar for about $10. Well worth it. Works great for removing the wheel locks too. My impact gun had trouble with the wheel locks.


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Old 01-16-2013, 03:13 PM   #6
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Hmmm might hit up Harbor freight. Might also try metal on metal but I love my nice clean new looking tools..... But o well if it has to happen it has to happen. Weirdest thing is I tried my air tools and they maxed out and didn't work. Nice to have some insight thanks everyone.
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickFRS View Post
I went to replace my rotors with DBA T3 fronts and stop tech rears but I ran into a problem.... After I put in my HAWK HPS pads I noticed the bolts that hold the piece where the pads are inserted were on really tight... I even split open my finger trying to take them off. (Hit my finger with a rubber mallet while holding the wrench) Ouch . Anyway I don't have a beaker bar.... any suggestions!? I want these acts of god... aka rotors... on my car!!! :happy0180:

P.s I've dont rotor swaps on my STi's before and they were not this tight......
Should be easy if you use a 1/2" drive ratchet + socket + mallet.

I've done it for a lot of people at the track already; 1 good whack per bolt and it'll be loose.
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggz501 View Post
keep in mind you can use a hollow tube as a breaker bar. you don't necessarily have to buy a nice 24" breaker bar. just go to your local hardware store and get a hollow steel tube (shortened fence post would work) and put it over you ratchet for the extra torque that you need.
Cheater pipe. Slip it on over the breaker bar to basically get a longer breaker bar that allows you to put more torque on the bolt.
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