Anyone replace rotors yet?
 

I went to replace my rotors with DBA T3 fronts and stop tech rears but I ran into a problem.... After I put in my HAWK HPS pads I noticed the bolts that hold the piece where the pads are inserted were on really tight... I even split open my finger trying to take them off. (Hit my finger with a rubber mallet while holding the wrench) Ouch :mad0260: :mad0259:. Anyway I don't have a beaker bar.... any suggestions!? I want these acts of god... aka rotors... on my car!!! :happy0180:

P.s I've dont rotor swaps on my STi's before and they were not this tight......

I didn't have any real issues. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosy. You are looking at the bolt, so make sure to visualize it properly (backwards).

I usually put a box wrench on the bracket bolts (17mm?) and hit it with a hammer (all metal hammer, not a rubber mallet). I actually use the right angle between the head of the hammer and the handle (less force, and no misses) - thus the reason for a metal handle, fiberglass or wood are going to get messed up.

A half inch drive ratchet should be good enough, just hit it with the palm of your hand. Padded gloves are suggested.

keep in mind you can use a hollow tube as a breaker bar. you don't necessarily have to buy a nice 24" breaker bar. just go to your local hardware store and get a hollow steel tube (shortened fence post would work) and put it over you ratchet for the extra torque that you need.

Get a breaker bar (air tools work too) - the bar is cheaper than the aggravation and busted fingers and it really isn't that much (I got a 36" breaker bar for $25 at Northern Tools (harbor freight would be similar Chinese made stuff anyways).

Harbor Freight will sell you a breaker bar for about $10. Well worth it. Works great for removing the wheel locks too. My impact gun had trouble with the wheel locks.


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Hmmm might hit up Harbor freight. Might also try metal on metal but I love my nice clean new looking tools..... But o well if it has to happen it has to happen. Weirdest thing is I tried my air tools and they maxed out and didn't work. Nice to have some insight thanks everyone.

Should be easy if you use a 1/2" drive ratchet + socket + mallet.

I've done it for a lot of people at the track already; 1 good whack per bolt and it'll be loose.

Cheater pipe. Slip it on over the breaker bar to basically get a longer breaker bar that allows you to put more torque on the bolt.