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| Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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#1 |
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Best track hood for cooling (coil overheating issue)
Is there a "best" hood to get? Mine has louvers in it already (but they are from eons ago before there were better options). So my options now are a new OEM hood + verus or just getting a whole new hood. By the time I get the hood and jack cut it and etc, I'd rather just get a carbon hood. It will match my carbon fenders, lol.
Just tired of overheating coils and killing track days. It doesn't happen OFTEN, but even twice a season is annoying.
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2014 BRZ: WRL Build (GP2) Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, etc-
2014 FRS: Similar WRL Build. Back up / parts / practice race car. 2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc. 1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies. 2022 CT5 Blackwing: Stock. |
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#2 |
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Look into Marsh Composites.
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#3 |
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I like the idea of positive pressure to let air in and negative pressure to suck it out... but it looks like the air coming out of the front will just go into the naca duct lol
![]() And that's assuming you can even do that. I have a few intuitive (though far from substantiated) concerns about having positive and negative pressure zones so close to each other under the hood. IDK. I assume there is a reason positive and negative pressure hoods aren't super popular/common. Anyone have any experience with them in hot climates on dedicated track cars?
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2014 BRZ: WRL Build (GP2) Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, etc-
2014 FRS: Similar WRL Build. Back up / parts / practice race car. 2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc. 1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies. 2022 CT5 Blackwing: Stock. |
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^ yeah that's not an ideal spot for naca ducts. That front exit duct should pull a ton of radiator heat out though. When I made that plunge on a shop STi there was a noticeable improvement in cooling, lower under hood temps, and even high-speed stability improved.
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This is good enough for GR cup cars... They have a resonator deleted with a block off plate so all the hot air can vent straight out...
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My understanding(as a guy on the internet who eats pizza for breakfast) has always been that without a leading gurney flap on a hood vent, it is not going to extract efficiently. The air pressure under hood has to be greater than the air pressure on top(kinda sorta). If you look at the verus hood vents or the driveway labs, they have a gurney on the front to trip up the airflow and create a little low pressure zone. I have the driveway labs vent, and in the rain it actually causes the water to swirl inward on the windshield.
https://drivewaylabs.com/collections...ood-duct-large https://www.verus-engineering.com/sh...ory=41#attr=64
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Best track hood for cooling (coil overheating issue)
Working on some vents for those looking to increase the size of existing vents to something more geared towards a track day car. I was in this boat as well. I don’t have CFD data or wind tunnel test results to back up any claims of increased cooling at this point. Would like to do some A to B track comparisons though.
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#12 | |
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Quote:
I don’t have a “heat” problem. I have a TON of cooling and if anything it’s over cooled because my oil doesn’t get above 205, even in texas. My problem is the coil packs popping.
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2014 BRZ: WRL Build (GP2) Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, etc-
2014 FRS: Similar WRL Build. Back up / parts / practice race car. 2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc. 1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies. 2022 CT5 Blackwing: Stock. |
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#13 | |
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That’s why naca ducts there concern me. You’re not only feeding the hot air into them, you’re reducing/disrupting the low pressure air. Honestly, and this intuitively from someone who hasn’t been in a wind tunnel or even scientific field for two decades, that hood raises a lot of eyebrows. Obviously, a flip will create more negative pressure, but it comes at the cost of drag. I think I need air rushing to the coils, not removing more hot air.
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2014 BRZ: WRL Build (GP2) Gutted, caged, coilovers, AP enduro, etc-
2014 FRS: Similar WRL Build. Back up / parts / practice race car. 2013 Viper GTS : Tractive Coilovers, ACR sway bars, aero, carbon, exhaust, etc. 1992 NA Spec Miata: 1.6 + 1999 NB Spec Miata: 1.8 w/ all the goodies. 2022 CT5 Blackwing: Stock. |
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