P2119 Troubleshooting

[Ibetchuwontdoit]

Hey all, I'm getting a P2119 code every day on my 2015 FRS, seemingly only after a cold start. Usually, plugging in my OFT and clearing the code will not see the return of the code until the next day.

I'm gently modded, UEL, K&N drop in filter, exhaust and normally running the 4.03 Stage 1 OFT tune. I'd been running that setup for several years without any issues. About 6 months ago, I bought and installed a pedal commander module and after a couple days of driving with it, I got my first P2119. I thought it might have been causing the problem so I removed it and haven't used it since. Still getting the codes though. Wondering if it damaged my throttle body with more aggressive opening/shutting. Car has a little over 100k miles.

I've already taken the throttle body completely off and thoroughly cleaned it. There was a little buildup around where the throttle plate normally rests, used a gentle wire brush and throttle body cleaner to get it all out. Made sure TPS connecter pins were clean and securely connected when reattaching TB to engine. Still getting the code daily. Of course this puts the car in limp mode, and is dangerous/annoying. So, now I'm wondering if the TB needs to be replaced or if just the TPS can be replaced. They look like they're not intended to be separate parts. So, looking for advice on my next steps. Should I just replace the TB or is there something else I've not tried?

Thanks!

[blsfrs]

Did you try cycling the gas pedal 5-6x with the ignition on and mtr off?

[Ibetchuwontdoit]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

Did you try cycling the gas pedal 5-6x with the ignition on and mtr off?

Thanks for your response. Sorry for the delay, I wanted to give it a try for a few days. On the days that I do what you've suggested, I do not see the code. So, if what you suggested is causing the TB plate to actuate without the engine cranked (loosening it up from whatever bind it gets while sitting) then I'd think that indicates that the TB needs to be replaced. Would you agree?

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by Ibetchuwontdoit

Thanks for your response. Sorry for the delay, I wanted to give it a try for a few days. On the days that I do what you've suggested, I do not see the code. So, if what you suggested is causing the TB plate to actuate without the engine cranked (loosening it up from whatever bind it gets while sitting) then I'd think that indicates that the TB needs to be replaced. Would you agree?

Sorry for my delay in getting back to you. This past weekend, somebody made me go to the track. My understanding is that cycling the pedal lets the ecu synchronize the pedal position and throttle plate position. Have someone cycle the pedal while you look at the throttle plate. Throttle bodies don't usually break.

[Ibetchuwontdoit]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

Sorry for my delay in getting back to you. This past weekend, somebody made me go to the track. My understanding is that cycling the pedal lets the ecu synchronize the pedal position and throttle plate position. Have someone cycle the pedal while you look at the throttle plate. Throttle bodies don't usually break.

Yea, it's not something I've ever had to replace on any of the cars I've ever owned, so it is odd. Given, this is only the 2nd car I've owned that didn't have a throttle body cable, this being all electronic, I could imagine the gears/driver getting weaker over time.

To further add to this thread, the problem has actually gotten worse the past few days. For example, I just returned from a quick errand, where the code was thrown 2 times on cold start and 1 more time after arriving at my errand destination. I ordered a new TB from Grams Performance a couple days ago. Saw some other posts on the forums about that specific TB and many responses saying that the 72mm inlet wasn't beneficial to an N/A as the stock TB had sufficient flow, but it was cheaper and claims "responsive high-torque servo motor and proprietary non-contact hall effect TPS sensor" so maybe they've identified the servo motor as a weak point? Not to mention, most threads regarding this TB were in regards to "is it worth it" for HP gains, and I'm simply getting it as a cheaper alternative to stock part cost and hopefully better hardware.

I'll chime in whether or not it solves my issue after it's installed, but at this point, not sure when it's going to arrive.

[Ibetchuwontdoit]

Got the grams throttle body in today, got it installed and test drove around the block. Smooth, but will want to give it a trial for a few days to see if it completely solved the issue.

Just wanted to pop in and add that your recommendation of turning key to on (without cranking) and pressing the gas pedal was also in the installation instructions provided for the TB. In more detail, it states to press and release the gas pedal 3 times slowly, then turn the key to off. Guessing switching it off ''saves'' the calibration?

Also, haven't seen it, but pretty sure I could hear the TB opening/shutting when doing this, so it actually does actuate the TB plate without the engine running.

[Eaton PSI]

Old but useful thread.
I've been having issues with unstable idle and engine revving up to 2.5-3k rpm by itself when coming to a stop. After a week or 2 of odd behaviour I ended up with car in limp mode and code P2119. Swapped throttle body for a spare I had from a wrecked engine and appears to be good now

[Eaton PSI]

Old but useful thread.
I've been having issues with unstable idle and engine revving up to 2.5-3k rpm by itself when coming to a stop. After a week or 2 of odd behaviour I ended up with car in limp mode and code P2119. Swapped throttle body for a spare I had from a wrecked engine and appears to be good now