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#1 |
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Oil leaking around oil pan screws
Hey guys, I'm in the process of installing the JDL turbo kit, just finished putting on the oil pan and noticed some oil leaking, and I wanted to see if it is normal for this to happen before the pan is tightened all the way. Here's what I did:
-completely cleaned mating surface of oil pan and engine -applied Toyota seal packing 103 FIPG in small circles around the oil pan, and around both sides of each screw hole -wiped down mating surface one final time with rubbing alcohol -screwed in pan, hand-tightening the screws -after letting it sit a couple hours, I tightened it down with a socket wrench and noticed one screw with oil all around the hole. I then noticed almost every other screw had a tiny amount of oil on them. Also to be clear, I did not fill the engine with oil, this is residual oil from before. Im wondering if this is to be expected considering I hadn't completely tightened the screws, or if I need to remove the pan and start over. Pics are uploading, I will try to post them. I also will wipe down the screws now that they're tightened and see if it continues, but I wanted to post ASAP so that I can take the pan off if needed before the sealant fully cures. Thanks. Edit: link to pictures. First picture shows the screw with the worst leak (bottom screw) https://imgur.com/a/gMwaDbz |
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#2 |
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hmmm ….. all I can see is the seal packing oozing out from the pan -
![]() If a tiny amount of oil is on the screw head after it is tightened down, maybe, the oil/fluid was in the screw hole and when the screw was inserted and tightened, the fluid was forced out and ran down the threads and settled on the screw head - humfrz |
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#3 |
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Thanks - I checked on it the next day and didn't see any signs of leaking. Fingers crossed the same can be said once there is actually oil in it...
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#4 |
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It's just oil leaking down. Since you didn't tighten right away, it leaked out. I typically just tighten mine down after a very thorough wipe with brake cleaner. Evenly, cross pattern, then snug them to spec. Never leaked and have done this a few times.
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#5 |
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Benz Tech
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You don't let the glue dry at all before you tighten it up. Clean, apply, clean, install and torque. Done.
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#6 |
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You ether had oil on the bolts or in the bolt holes. For future reference all surfaces/bolts/bolt holes should be 100% clean of all oil/contaminates. If there was oil on any of the mating surfaces you will have an oil leak. IPA(not the beer), MEK, Toluene works great for final clean up prior to installation.
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#7 |
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ProCrastinationConsultant
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i'm a big fan of liberal application of brake cleaner in situations like this.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to soundman98 For This Useful Post: | FTEIGHTSIX (12-02-2019) |
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#8 |
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So I realized I forgot to install the valve seat into the wastegate (lol) and took everything off. I figured while I had everything off, I would just redo the oil pan for safety. As soon as I took the bolts off the pan, it dropped - the sealant wasn't holding it in place at all, and there was oil around the entire perimeter of the oil pan/sealant. So thanks everyone for making me worried enough to check it.
Now, I'd like to do it right this time. It sounds like most people recommend Brakleen for cleaning the mating surfaces. I have non-chlorinated Brakleen, will that make a difference? Any other tips? I applied the sealant using the method shown
. And just to clarify, I should tighten the pan down all the way immediately after applying the sealant and attaching the pan to the block?
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#9 |
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If you don't tighten it down right away, it will cure with no pressure, and then you'll be deforming the sealant when you do tighten it. Just tighten it immediately and let it cure in its final form
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#10 | |
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Quote:
This will also prevent oil from seeping into the sealant. Lay a bead about 1/8 round after it has been cleaned. You can go between bolt holes on the pan while continuing the bead around the inside of the bolt holes. Or you can lay it on the block itself... It will be obvious where it needs to go if you put on block. I've done it both ways....
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'14 SWP BRZ 6MT | FBM built 9:1cr engine w/ GTX3076R Turbo | Mazworx CD009 trans swap | EcuTek | Jackson Racing Dual Oil Cooler/Radiator | SPAL fans | JDL 3" Dual Resonated OP/FP | Perrin 3" | Radium Dual Cans | 18" Rota Titans | M85 3.73 diff | DSS 1k axles | And more....too much more....ugh.
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