(SOLVED!) Loud transmission clunk

[norcalpb]

Hi all,

I have about 130,000 miles on my 2013 and I've just developed this ultra loud transmission clunk when making right turns only under acceleration.

This noise is not there when I have the clutch in and take a right turn.

My throwout bearing is about to go out again based on the compressed air noise it makes when I put my foot on the clutch, but I think this issue is unrelated to the throw out bearing.

I had my diff/transmission serviced 10k miles ago with Motul, no signs of leaks or anything.

I checked my transmission mount and everything looked fine and all the bolts were properly torqued. When I rev the car in Neutral I don't hear any noises so that may rule out engine mounts. The noise is coming from directly in front/below the shifter.

Anyone have any idea on what this noise could be??? Not only is it loud, but it shakes the whole car violently.

TIA.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xh6UrAzf4aE[/ame]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fyJaFtMELU[/ame]

[norcalpb]

Also noticed a fluid coming out of my driver's side axle. Looks like the CV joint.



Is this something to be worried about?

Passenger side looks normal I guess:

[Ultramaroon]

First the boot cracked. Then the lube spun out. Now the CV joint is shot.


Textbook failure.


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xh6UrAzf4aE[/ame]




Use this format.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

First the boot cracked. Then the lube spun out. Now the CV joint is shot.


Textbook failure.

Use this format.

Would a failed CV joint make such a bad noise? It sounds like it’s coming from the transmission but I know how deceiving noise transmission can be.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by norcalpb

Would a failed CV joint make such a bad noise? It sounds like it’s coming from the transmission but I know how deceiving noise transmission can be.

Let me backpedal after listening again. I'm used to hearing the popping/cracking sound of a FWD CV joint in a tight turn. This is not the same case for the output shafts of a differential.

I think the slight difference in sound is due to a combination of slop in the failed CV joint along with the locking action of the Torsen.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Let me backpedal after listening again. I'm used to hearing the popping/cracking sound of a FWD CV joint in a tight turn. This is not the same case for the output shafts of a differential.

I think the slight difference in sound is due to a combination of slop in the failed CV joint along with the locking action of the Torsen.

That would make sense, as this problem has slowly gotten worse and worse over time. It's only in the last week that it has become an audible concern.

I'm wondering if my last track day tore a boot and I'm now starting to feel the repercussions. Will this potentially damage the differential?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by norcalpb

That would make sense, as this problem has slowly gotten worse and worse over time. It's only in the last week that it has become an audible concern.

I'm wondering if my last track day tore a boot and I'm now starting to feel the repercussions. Will this potentially damage the differential?

Death by a million little hammer blows. Spline joints, gear teeth, and bearing races hate impact energy. Your diff won't grenade tomorrow but why beat on it if you don't have to?


Until you fix it, try to plan your corners so you coast through them as much as you can.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Death by a million little hammer blows. Spline joints, gear teeth, and bearing races hate impact energy. Your diff won't grenade tomorrow but why beat on it if you don't have to?

Ok that’s good to know. If I crawl around sharp right hand turns it won’t make the noise so I think that’ll be the way to roll. It’s my only car atm so I need to take it to and from work.

I have an appointment at an 86 shop next Wednesday, but I’ll have it looked at before then.

For it to make so much noise, the joint must be totally void of grease...but it would make sense how a sharp right turn under throttle would upset the driver side axle as it’s supporting a ton of weight from the car.

Looks like $320 for an axle fml.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by norcalpb

Looks like $320 for an axle fml.

Meh. That's about right. Stay away from the rebuilt ones. I learned that lesson the hard way. :/

[Mr.ac]

Woh.... crunchy cv bearing.
I'll concur with everyone and say it's your axles.

But...if it was me I'll just rebuild them from good axle shop. I'll just make sure they come with a nice warranty. $300 is a bit pricy. But at the end of the day it's your wallet not mine.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by Mr.ac

Woh.... crunchy cv bearing.
I'll concur with everyone and say it's your axles.

But...if it was me I'll just rebuild them from good axle shop. I'll just make sure they come with a nice warranty. $300 is a bit pricy. But at the end of the day it's your wallet not mine.

I called a couple shops and they said they replace the axle instead of rebuilding due to labor costs. They probably wanna stick me with an off-brand axle, but is that even a bad idea?

[NoHaveMSG]

You can try hitting up CL or facebook market place for a car being parted out. I have a spare set of CV's I picked up that way.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

You can try hitting up CL or facebook market place for a car being parted out. I have a spare set of CV's I picked up that way.

Do you separate the CV joint from the axle and collect them that way?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by norcalpb

Do you separate the CV joint from the axle and collect them that way?

No, I got complete axles with CV