Does the ACT Streetlight kit need a Verus clutch fork?

[Pat]

I'm considering replacing my OEM components with the ACT Streetlight clutch and flywheel (SB8-XTSS). My mechanic says he has not seen the OEM clutch fork fail with the Streetlight kit and said the Verus fork was unnecessary. Does anyone here have experience telling them otherwise? I was leaning towards getting it for piece of mind, but also don't want to spend money unnecessarily.
Thanks,
Pat

[Dr. BRZ]

No it does not but your oem clutch fork will go out over time. Best to buy it now since you're going to take it apart, get it done in 1 job. It holds 1000hp. Especially good if your race the car or push it every once in a while so REPLACE IT.

[Sportsguy83]

Once the transmission is out, I don't see why not upgrade it. Might as well for peace of mind. It's not excessively expensive and can potentially save a lot of headaches.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Dr. BRZ

No it does not but your oem clutch fork will go out over time. Best to buy it now since you're going to take it apart, get it done in 1 job. It holds 1000hp. Especially good if your race the car or push it every once in a while so REPLACE IT.

It's really not rated by HP or even clutch torque capacity. It's rated for 1000 lbs of pressure plate clamping force.

[Sapphireho]

Yes, it does. Mine needed it. Silly not to put it in at same time.

[Dr. BRZ]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

It's really not rated by HP or even clutch torque capacity. It's rated for 1000 lbs of pressure plate clamping force.

That's what i meant lol

[Pat]

Originally Posted by Sapphireho

Yes, it does. Mine needed it. Silly not to put it in at same time.

What do you mean, "Mine needed it"? Was your fork bent with OEM components? How did it need it?
TIA

[Sapphireho]

Originally Posted by Pat

What do you mean, "Mine needed it"? Was your fork bent with OEM components? How did it need it?
TIA

Stock would flex and be impossible to drive at times. Had to drop the tranny AGAIN to put the better fork on. Solved a lot of the engagement problems.


Then a couple months later, I got rid of the ACT all together because it sucked.

[Turbo]

Originally Posted by Sapphireho

Stock would flex and be impossible to drive at times. Had to drop the tranny AGAIN to put the better fork on. Solved a lot of the engagement problems.


Then a couple months later, I got rid of the ACT all together because it sucked.

Can you please quantify how "it sucked" with a bit of detail ?


Curious because I've heard favourable reports from someone who tracks their car pretty hard running the ACT SB8-XTSS clutch/lightweight flywheel combo.


I'm going to do a clutch/lightweight flywheel swap when my engine is out for the recall, and am deciding on what direction to go. I've also considered the ACT 6-puck versions w/lightweight flywheels, but I'm unsure how the 6-puck versions compare to the full-face discs driveability and performance wise.

[Sapphireho]

Originally Posted by Turbo

Can you quantify how "it sucked".


I've heard favourable reports from someone who tracks their car pretty hard running the ACT SB8-XTSS clutch/lightweight flywheel combo.

I've also considered the 6-puck versions of their clutch with the lightweight flywheels.

The shudder with the flywheel was nasty, and had hang up problems constantly. I drive my car on the street. For a dedicated track car might be ok. Not for street.




Edit: Just went thru my paperwork and I had the SB7-XTSS kit, I now run the South Bend Stage 2 Daily with stock flywheel.


For more detail, sometimes I would come to a light, have my foot to the floor and still be creeping forward. Other times I would go to take off and start releasing the clutch and nothing, nothing, nothing, then bam, like you dropped the clutch. The shop I used sent it back to ACT for testing, and they came back and said everything was in spec.

[Turbo]

Originally Posted by Sapphireho

The shudder with the flywheel was nasty, and had hang up problems constantly. I drive my car on the street. For a dedicated track car might be ok. Not for street.

Edit: Just went thru my paperwork and I had the SB7-XTSS kit, I now run the South Bend Stage 2 Daily with stock flywheel.

For more detail, sometimes I would come to a light, have my foot to the floor and still be creeping forward. Other times I would go to take off and start releasing the clutch and nothing, nothing, nothing, then bam, like you dropped the clutch. The shop I used sent it back to ACT for testing, and they came back and said everything was in spec.

ok, thanks.

What clutch fork, pivot & release bearing were you running at that time? Did you try making any adjustments to it?

[Sapphireho]

Originally Posted by Turbo

ok, thanks.

What clutch fork, pivot & release bearing were you running at that time? Did you try making any adjustments to it?

The velox fork and pivot. I assume the bearing was a pre-dot version, since they were not out yet at the time. I still have the clutch kit with only about 5k miles on it. I figure I might try it again someday with an updated TOB. I did like how stiff it was; WAY stiffer than stock.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by Sapphireho

Stock would flex and be impossible to drive at times.

This is all new to me, and I'm trying to learn about how it all works. How could you tell the OEM fork was flexing? It seems unlikely to me one would be able to tell if a fork is flexing simply from driving the car.

[CSG Mike]

It does not. Just make sure the pivot is in good shape.