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#1 |
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OFT Screen Crack DIY Repair Info
TL;DR scroll to 3rd paragraph…
Hi Guys, Just wanted to share some of my recent findings regarding the OFT and replacing the screen in the event you may have cracked the screen. For those of you who are fortunate to not have this experience, you should know that cracking the screen will pretty much render your tablet useless since the resistive touch screen is used as an interface for the tablet’s GUI/Functionality. I will do my best to explain my situation, findings, and procedures to DIY replacement. This is my story… *Law and Order DUN DUN* My specific situation is as follows; your exact scenario may not necessarily match so this thread will be open to your concerns. One day I was finished installing a stage 1 tune after getting the car back from my dealer. In a hurry and with a loose grip, I dropped my OFT on the concrete garage floor as I was headed inside. I hurried to my laptop and luckily when the OFT was plugged in, OpenFlash Manager was able to recognize it. I thought, all’s good from here. Frantically, I tried going back to my car to try to see if it would even work for installing another tune. No luck. The screen only registered button presses in the center of the screen. After this, I exchanged some phone calls and email with the guys over at OpenFlash Performance but with no easy/inexpensive remedy. *In some cases*, Shiv has a replacement program in which if you purchased you OFT direct from them, you can replace the tablet for about $250. I bought mine used and learned that wasn’t an option for me. The OFT sat for a few weeks and I considered all the stuff I could try. I had actually just installed a header in the meantime, so I didn’t want to be running a stage 1 tune with it. Plus, I had no way of getting my stock ROM back on the ECU without sending the physical ECU to Shiv. I even tried contacting Alientech to see if the device supported USB OTG, which is a windows feature that allows a USB mouse to control the screen. They do not support that, nor is there a schematic online with information on their tablet. After a while, I figured I had nothing to lose by opening it and trying to find the model # for the screen. If you proceed, it will probably void any warranty or support from OFP so just be aware going forward. In order to open the tablet, you will need to ‘break’ 4 tabs holding the front/back cover together. For this, I used a putty knife and sort of wedged and gently wiggled at the 4 corners until I heard a snap. ![]() I did not know these were there before hand, but it’s sort of good to focus on these areas as to not damage any of the components on the PCB inside. Once you get the tablet open, you will need to focus on the foam stand offs, directly underneath the screen. Be aware that there are many surface mount components around this screen so do not use anything too hard or else you may accidentally knock a resistor off of the board ( happened to me, and needed to solder it back on). I had a heat gun and soldering station at work, so I put hat to use. I applied heat directly to the screen to short of “loosen” the adhesive from the foam standoffs. These things are very secure, and not easily stretched. I also had a boxcutter, or a razorblade, that I was using to slice the foam pad while also gently peeling back the screen off of the board. You want to pull from the bottom upwards so as to not damage the touchscreen cabling. After working on cutting all 4 white foam pads, I could then lift up the screen and see the model number. ![]() You will also see the two orange-ish ribbons going into 2 separate plugins. Pull up on the little black tabs securing the cables and you can gently wiggle the cable loose. At this point, your screen should be free from the PCB. The next steps are pretty easy. The model number for the screen is UMSH-8252MD-1T. This is the most important part of the repair. No other screen will work, plus getting this one ensures plug n play. Luckily, I found one on eBay the same day and ordered immediately. Received it the next day, plugged the cables into the PCB and secured the black tabs. Plugged it up to OFM and voila, she works. ![]() Updated the OFT, took it to the car and then calibrated the screen. Once, calibrated, I went to the tune page and SUCCESS, I can now hit the WRITE button! Put my stage 2 on and went on my merry way. ![]() ![]() I hope this helps those of you who have busted their tablet. I know I freaked when I thought about having to replace a $400 tablet, plus all the uncertainty with how I would put my stock tune back on the car since it was in limbo. This should help you by reducing that cost down to about $40 or so. Honestly, if you find that screen anywhere just buy it even if it is more expensive because it is hard to source. Good luck on your repair. |
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#2 |
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You sir, are a true pioneer.
Thank you for your research and dedication!
__________________
Build Thread / OFT Stage 2, Tomei UEL, Perrin Resonated, ST Coils, 2 Sets of Wheels, Rally Armor, TOMS Tails.
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#3 |
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#5 | |
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Quote:
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#6 |
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Saw this on our facebook group. Good job man!
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#7 | |
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Quote:
I'll pray all OFT owners crack their screen, then i will contact distributor to start my business... lol |
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#8 |
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nice work!
(note to self: do not drop OFT on garage floor!) |
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#9 |
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I will wrap the tablet with bubble wrap and duct tape
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#10 | |
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Quote:
![]() Dude not gonna lie, thought about it. Learn from my mistakes... ![]() |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Subie_Nubie For This Useful Post: | zc06_kisstherain (10-12-2016) |
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#11 |
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Good work sir!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Shiv@Openflash For This Useful Post: | Subie_Nubie (10-14-2016) |
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#12 |
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Man! You are a life savor!
But the screen is really difficult to find though T_T |
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#13 |
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Just curious, is there anyone else want this screen?
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#14 |
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