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Old 10-09-2016, 01:17 AM   #29
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I don't think I need to do these. Could you give me the reasons for doing these?
It depends on your personal preference, but I find the stock clutch is both too soft and engages too high. With the clutch being soft, it can be hard to determine exactly where it engages and disengages. You can't feel the point where the clutch starts to grab and so you sometimes slip the clutch when shifting into gear which can wear out the clutch over time. Think of it as having the clutch partially pressed in like when riding the clutch pedal...


The stock clutch also grabs too high for me. When shifting, I tend to press the clutch, put it in gear, give it gas and release the clutch. If the clutch releases very low to the floor (which I prefer), it engages quickly and doesn't slip when I give it gas. But when the clutch engages too high at the top of the pedal travel, then when I give it gas there is a delay before the clutch engages, causing slippage and wear.

Simply speaking, by engaging the clutch low toward the floor and by having a firmer pedal feel you get a fast engage and disengage and a good feel to know when it is doing both. If you find that you are slipping the clutch and are having a hard time releasing it exactly at the correct time when the engine is rev matched, you might want to consider lowering the pedal or, at least, removing the helper spring to give a better feel.
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Old 10-09-2016, 01:47 AM   #30
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Where are you located ?
Vancouver "The Couve"
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Old 10-09-2016, 01:52 AM   #31
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Simply speaking, by engaging the clutch low toward the floor and by having a firmer pedal feel you get a fast engage and disengage and a good feel to know when it is doing both. If you find that you are slipping the clutch and are having a hard time releasing it exactly at the correct time when the engine is rev matched, you might want to consider lowering the pedal or, at least, removing the helper spring to give a better feel.
Assist spring removal does nothing to change the rate of engagement. You are the perfect candidate for my awesome mod.
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Old 10-09-2016, 02:10 AM   #32
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I don't think I need to do these. Could you give me the reasons for doing these?
you don't need to do them, but they make the drive-ability of the car a lot better. it's all driver preference really. I adjust all my cars to have the engagement point close to the bottom of the pedal since it's easier to drive that way, and removing the spring gives you a better feel in the pedal. @sly pointed it out pretty well
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:23 AM   #33
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Assist spring removal does nothing to change the rate of engagement. You are the perfect candidate for my awesome mod.
Hmmm... I see I have another project. Excellllllent!
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Old 10-09-2016, 12:01 PM   #34
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Hmmm... I see I have another project. Excellllllent!
It still engages high (so goofy!) but it makes it nice & crisp.
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Old 10-09-2016, 02:43 PM   #35
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I don't think I need to do these. Could you give me the reasons for doing these?
Well, nhuyvan1106, since you are a new MT driver, the feel of the clutch is relative to what you are used to. Therefore, if you have no basis of comparison, I would suggest you just leave it alone ...... and it will become your baseline.

I speculate that a lot of folks want to change the feel of the clutch (release point and effort to engage/disengage) is because they are trying to make it feel like another clutch system they are accustomed to.

As far as changing the transmission and differential oils, like ol @Ultramaroon says ....... for average driving ...... there is no reason to change them.

See ....... wasn't THAT easy.....


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Old 10-09-2016, 02:51 PM   #36
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I found that the gearbox responds harshly if the forces your inputting suddenly change at low rpms. That is revving to 1000-1500, slipping the clutch, then short shifting to 2nd at 2500 usually means I'll get a clunk.

If I'm able to start just using the clutch or barely any throttle, gently accelerate to 2500 and shift, I don't have much of a problem with clunking.
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:23 AM   #37
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I have a question for you guys car gurus. So people say don't keep the clutch pedal pressed in when waiting on a red light because it will wear out the clutch disk faster. But I watched a video on youtube about how the clutch works, the video showed that when you depress the clutch pedal, that force is transferred down to shaft with a release bearing attached to it which presses against the diafram spring which in turn makes the clutch disk and the fly wheel lose contact meaning there is no friction between the flywheel friction surface and that of the clutch disk. Then why pressing the clutch pedal while waiting on a red increases clutch disk wear?
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:31 AM   #38
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I have a question for you guys car gurus. So people say don't keep the clutch pedal pressed in when waiting on a red light because it will wear out the clutch disk faster. But I watched a video on youtube about how the clutch works, the video showed that when you depress the clutch pedal, that force is transferred down to shaft with a release bearing attached to it which presses against the diafram spring which in turn makes the clutch disk and the fly wheel lose contact meaning there is no friction between the flywheel friction surface and that of the clutch disk. Then why pressing the clutch pedal while waiting on a red increases clutch disk wear?
You got it. It doesn't hurt anything. Some people worry about extra wear on the throwout bearing. Shifting the car all day long at 7000 RPM but worrying about holding the clutch pedal for a minute while the engine is idling. Total BS.

It's fine. Leave it in gear as long as you can comfortably.
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:35 AM   #39
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You got it. It doesn't hurt anything. Some people worry about extra wear on the throwout bearing. Shifting the car all day long at 7000 RPM but worrying about holding the clutch pedal for a minute while the engine is idling. Total BS.

It's fine. Leave it in gear as long as you can comfortably.
Phew, man, that is some good news, but I don't actually keep pressing the clutch pedal at a stop though, I just put it in neutral. Ok, I have another question, how about shifting to neutral at lower speed (below 20 mph) and cruise to a stop (when I see a stop sign or a red light ahead) ? I have not seen anybody that talks about this.
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:41 AM   #40
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Phew, man, that is some good news. Ok, I have another question, how about shifting to neutral at lower speed (below 20 mph) and cruise to a stop (when I see a stop sign or a red light ahead) ? I have not seen anybody that talks about this.
Technically, coasting in neutral is illegal because it is considered not being in full control of the vehicle. I have mixed feelings but as they say, "Them's the rules."

Johnny Law's not sitting in the passenger seat watching you so let your conscience be your guide.
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:47 AM   #41
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Wow, that is good to know. But probably I wasn't clear enough, what I meant was I just use the car inertia to "slither" to a stop which is usually 10 feet away, I don't think that is considered coasting in neutral isn't it?
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:02 AM   #42
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Wow, that is good to know. But probably I wasn't clear enough, what I meant was I just use the car inertia to "slither" to a stop which is usually 10 feet away, I don't think that is considered coasting in neutral isn't it?
Yeah, it is. If you're not in gear you can't just dump the clutch and take off.

That's also the argument for staying in gear at a stop light. If you had to suddenly jump because of some oncoming vehicle, that extra second to put it in gear would make all the difference.

A few months ago I ended up in exactly that situation. While stopped at a light in first gear I heard the sound of screeching tires. The inattentive driver behind me made a panic stop. There was no other traffic to I decided to jump out of the way.

I stalled it. :/
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