Bucking after new clutch install

[jeepmor]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

This isn't your jeep. There's no gap. The TOB stays in contact with the fingers. Don't argue. Go look and learn. Think about how this system manages to to do this without need for adjustment as the clutch wears.

The self adjuster is the spring I speak of in the slave cylinder. It also tells why the TOBs fail like rotary seals. Now keep trying to defend how that was a shit installation and not the Verus fork where this all started for me? Please, you have so much more berating to go.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by jeepmor

The self adjuster is the spring I speak of in the slave cylinder. It also tells why the TOBs fail like rotary seals. Now keep trying to defend how that was a shit installation and not the Verus fork where this all started for me? Please, you have so much more berating to go.

Wish you all the best.

[NoHaveMSG]

It honestly sounds like it could be a missalgined clutch disc too. I bought the OS Giken tool just to avoid some of the clutch install issues that can be causes by the plastic installation tool.

[jeepmor]

Please keep elaborating as I don't follow how this won't self correct.

[MX-5RACER]

This could also have been clutch chatter from oil being left on the pressure plate or flywheel during installation. I have also seen cases where someone lubes up the transmission input shaft a little too much and flings grease onto the clutch.

The oil on the contact surfaces causes slip/grip and hot spots and can lead to chatter.

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

It honestly sounds like it could be a missalgined clutch disc too. I bought the OS Giken tool just to avoid some of the clutch install issues that can be causes by the plastic installation tool.

I know that this subject has been discussed ad nauseum is other posts, but I still don't understand the logic behind using the Gilkin tool vs a plastic one.

If the clutch disc is successfully "aligned" to allow installation of the transmission, what other "alignment" is relevant? I do not feel that I can move forward into the new year without understanding this concept.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

I know that this subject has been discussed ad nauseum is other posts, but I still don't understand the logic behind using the Gilkin tool vs a plastic one.

If the clutch disc is successfully "aligned" to allow installation of the transmission, what other "alignment" is relevant? I do not feel that I can move forward into the new year without understanding this concept.

The idea behind it is to prevent input shaft binding on the disc and pilot bearing on install. Being slip fit there is obviously some tolerance there, but items like the pilot bearing have a surprising amount of play in them from the inner to the outer race to allow for expansion. Using a higher precision alignment tool helps minimize the issues. I know with the plastic tool the exedy kit comes with, mine was visibly off. I usually have to hold the tool up while tightening or it sags and causes it to be off.

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

The idea behind it is to prevent input shaft binding on the disc and pilot bearing on install. Being slip fit there is obviously some tolerance there, but items like the pilot bearing have a surprising amount of play in them from the inner to the outer race to allow for expansion. Using a higher precision alignment tool helps minimize the issues. I know with the plastic tool the exedy kit comes with, mine was visibly off. I usually have to hold the tool up while tightening or it sags and causes it to be off.

I hear what you are "saying", but if the transmission will mate up, all that goes out the window. There is play in the pilot bearing and in the input shaft so as @jeepmor said, it is self-correcting. What am I missing?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

I hear what you are "saying", but if the transmission will mate up, all that goes out the window. There is play in the pilot bearing and in the input shaft so as @jeepmor said, it is self-correcting. What am I missing?

I've wondered about this many times and the only potential issue that I can picture would be deformation of the friction disc about the hub as the input shaft is loaded to mate with the pilot. That seems like a stretch but the end result would be a dragging clutch.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

I hear what you are "saying", but if the transmission will mate up, all that goes out the window. There is play in the pilot bearing and in the input shaft so as @jeepmor said, it is self-correcting. What am I missing?

If it goes in fine yeah, I would say it is fine. If it goes in a little tough then potentially it could be loaded a bit more on one side, disc and/or pilot bearing. The bearing surprisingly has bit of axial play in it between inner/outer races, not just fit between shaft and inner race. I tried to take video on my phone by it doesn't translate well. That's the way my brain sees it anyway.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

If it goes in fine yeah, I would say it is fine. If it goes in a little tough then potentially it could be loaded a bit more on one side, disc and/or pilot bearing. The bearing surprisingly has bit of axial play in it between inner/outer races, not just fit between shaft and inner race. I tried to take video on my phone by it doesn't translate well. That's the way my brain sees it anyway.

I don't think you're the target market. If my hypothesis holds true, it would take a mechanical sociopath to willingly torque it enough to get it started. The damage takes place before it's even rammed home.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I don't think you're the target market. If my hypothesis holds true, it would take a mechanical sociopath to willingly torque it enough to get it started. The damage takes place before it's even rammed home.

Yeah, new clutch didn't come with an alignment tool and I broke my other so I figured why not

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Yeah, new clutch didn't come with an alignment tool and I broke my other so I figured why not

Oh, it's nice. The plastic ones suck. I'm thinking input shaft from a junk transmission.

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Oh, it's nice. The plastic ones suck. I'm thinking input shaft from a junk transmission.

Back in the good old days, Chevys used the same input shaft on everything they made. We had an input shaft alignment tool that worked on anything GM from the 1940's thru the 1980's. Even the bolt pattern on the transmissions was the same.

I would say that 98% of the time, the plastic tool will work just fine, if you are careful.