When would you consider modding pulleys?

[Poodles]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

I disagree.
Brake dynos measure torque and power is calculated.
Inertia dynos measure time and power is calculated.
Define real power gain. You drive onto a dyno. Get a reading. Go away and do some mods. Come back and do another dyno run (on the same dyno). If the increase is 10 power units can you tell me if I have increased the "real" power or the pretend power?

It's pretend because theoretically in a drag race with a car without said mods you wouldn't be faster (MAYBE be faster shifting, and that's a big maybe)


Road course it's a different ballgame because of the need to rev match and removing rotating mass helps that. You might be "faster" simple because of that.

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by Poodles

Hence why inertia dynos have their issue One could also use lightweight wheels to get the same effect, or remove the rear rotors (I don't recommend it, but I remember this being tested somewhere).


As all power ratings are rated essentially on torque and horsepower is calculated from RPM, there's no "real" power gain.






Maybe so (and most everyone that makes them is going to say they're just fine as they're selling it), but it would be much cheaper for an OEM to NOT use a dampened pulley if there really wasn't an issue. This is much like the 1-piece driveshaft vs 2-piece driveshaft (read up on driveshaft critical speeds). It's not a NVH issue...


Regardless, it's a hell of a lot of money to spend on a part that's not making power or looking pretty...

Threads are there with quoted emails from Subaru themselves that the pulleys being dampened/non dampened makes no diff in regards to (worry). So not just from vendors as you state.

In regards to lighter driveshafts. I've done this and for "feel" one piece on this car is a lot nicer feeling, no clunkyness feel and yes a feel of being more peppy. Much more on a dyno? Don't know don't care either. I will get a one piece again soon and in cf.

[Poodles]

Originally Posted by OICU812

Threads are there with quoted emails from Subaru themselves that the pulleys being dampened/non dampened makes no diff in regards to (worry). So not just from vendors as you state.

In regards to lighter driveshafts. I've done this and for "feel" one piece on this car is a lot nicer feeling, no clunkyness feel and yes a feel of being more peppy. Much more on a dyno? Don't know don't care either. I will get a one piece again soon and in cf.

Haven't seen anything from Subaru themselves...


1-piece driveshaft is only really an issue at high speeds (then again, having a driveshaft failure at high speeds could be...bad). It's a pretty easy thing to calculate (tons of calculators online for it), but I've seen what failures do on Supras (which run a 3.73 or 3.93 final drive usually compared to this car's IIRC 4.10). Stock power wouldn't be an issue as I don't think you'd get going fast enough, but if you're super/turbocharged it could be an issue to watch out for.

[1Cor10:23]

What I'm taking good away from this is that Headers is the logical next step. Thanks all!

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[raven1231]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

What I'm taking good away from this is that Headers is the logical next step. Thanks all!

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ud
As you should bud!

[Malt]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

What I'm taking good away from this is that Headers is the logical next step. Thanks all!

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Headers AND a tune. They should be done together.

[1Cor10:23]

Originally Posted by Malt

Headers AND a tune. They should be done together.

Yup, already got OFT. Likely looking into OFH

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[raven1231]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

Yup, already got OFT. Likely looking into OFH

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Good choice! Great products with even better support!

[stugray]

Best advice I can give:

Do the opposite of whatever NYCsubaruBRZ says

[tennisfreak]

Regardless of what gives the best gains I say sure do the pulleys.

A 3 pulley set is less than $150, takes 10 minutes to install, and can be done in your garage with no jack stands or power tools.

Sure it is not a game changer for the car but you will feel a difference in the responsiveness.

Headers and exhaust are great if you have the money. A exhaust with headers is going to cost you $2-3K and that is if you install it yourself. Then you need jack stands and ample time to do it.
I have already done the catback myself and will eventually get around to doing the headers and down/front pipe. Just need to get ready to spend $1k+ more on my car to do it.

[jc1993]

Originally Posted by Malt

You'd suggest an Intake then pulleys before a header?!

Most intakes are absolute crap and pulleys and very little. Headers and a tune should be the very first mod for anyone looking for power gains. Both a header and tune can be had for around the price of a decent CBE with shiv's OFT/OFH combo.

bro do u know if that will fix the problem wit cel? i mean oft would it di it or would i still need a tune

[Malt]

Originally Posted by jc1993

bro do u know if that will fix the problem wit cel? i mean oft would it di it or would i still need a tune

The OFT (open flash tablet) is a device used to flash tunes to the ECU. Shiv provides off the shelf tunes free of charge and yes it will fix the CEL from running a catless header.

[jc1993]

Originally Posted by Malt

The OFT (open flash tablet) is a device used to flash tunes to the ECU. Shiv provides off the shelf tunes free of charge and yes it will fix the CEL from running a catless header.

thank you sir!!!

[jc1993]

Originally Posted by Malt

The OFT (open flash tablet) is a device used to flash tunes to the ECU. Shiv provides off the shelf tunes free of charge and yes it will fix the CEL from running a catless header.

also i live in tthe worst state possible for emission(cali) when the time comes to smog my frs would i be able to flash it by to stock ? of course with the oem headers bolted back on, any issues i should know about..