Installed/How-To: 2014 Forester XT OEM Oil Cooler(pics!)

[Kostamojen]

BTW I'm at almost 2 years running mine with the OEM/CARNZ "correct" piping/routing and zero issues and still plenty of oil cooling.

Its certainly the most reliable method to run the oil cooler. I plan on running this for the life of the car (don't plan on selling the car, ever) so if reliability is what you are after just use all the correct OEM bits and call it a day.

[Chenslee]

I found another nipple for the feed line that might work:

Parker PN: 68HB-6-M114

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/80258445

MSC's shipping and handling was like $11 so I called a local hydraulics supplier and ordered 4 @ $6.40 each. I'll post pics when they come in next week.

[tonytduc]

thanks

[switchlanez]

I only have mostly basic tools and no lift and would like to have all I need without having to make multiple trips to Pep Boys to get a part or tool I "discover" that I need.

Originally Posted by shawnhayes

1. As stated above the DIY doesn't include in the parts list ONE extra clamp you need to clamp the hose onto the barbed fitting.

I suggest one of the Subaru 1/2 in heater hose clamp (a double constant tension clamp). I used a Nissan one, very similar.

Is the "one hose clamp of your choice" in the OP already included in the parts list:

805918010(x3) - HOSE, CLAMP
092315002(x2) - HOSE, CLAMP

or would I still need to find a hose clamp? And what do you I suggest I tell the Subaru parts guy at the counter if I want him to fetch me the 1/2" clamp suggested?

Originally Posted by shawnhayes

3. The barbed fitting is incredibly difficult to get to without removing other items. I figure a deep well socket might do the trick, but I didn't have one at the time, so I suggest that whoever else does this get a deep well socket on an extension to put this fitting in.

Without it, I had to remove both the lower radiator hose and the adjacent hose to be able to get to it with a wrench - 1/8 turn at a time. Yuck.

What size deep well socket?

@CARNZ

[nunonuna]

Originally Posted by switchlanez

I only have mostly basic tools and no lift and would like to have all I need without having to make multiple trips to Pep Boys to get a part or tool I "discover" that I need.

What size deep well socket?

@CARNZ

You need 24mm deep socket for oil cooler pipe to install.
Also 7/8" deep socket for the 8an barbed fitting.
I suggest 13/16" wrench for M14x1.5 to 8AN adapter that mates with 8AN fitting if you are gonna use those two as OP did.

[lokiwho]

Do we have to remove the airbox for this? I currently have a KraftWerks kit in the way and I'd rather not remove it.

[lokiwho]

Also, I just realized I won't be able to do this because the KraftWerks bracket connects to the front of the engine where you're supposed to connect the feed tube... Any ideas on alternate attachment areas?

[ZZT86]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

Final install pic:



Few things to note:

4) The pipe along side the block that CARNZ didn't use, I understand why he didn't use it, there isn't much space in there. You also need small hands to get between the block and the head to install the top bolt for the pipe. HOWEVER once it is installed, it is easy to bend into a different position for the best clearance possible. I just used a phillips screwdriver to do so and it fits perfectly now. I do recommend unplugging the wiring harness for more room at first.

Hi Kosta,

Do you have any clearer pics of that VC pipe (21328AA230) installed? I have the car up on jacks/stands & currently in the process of doing this but it's difficult to make out exactly where it will bolt to/sit given the lack of space. The rest should be a piece of cake.

Would really appreciate your help on this.

Cheers,

[switchlanez]

I finished the install a couple weeks ago, no kinks thanks to this easily overlooked post (wish it were in the OP because I originally finished with the kink, noticed this post, then went back to cut my line):

Originally Posted by olorin

I was really worried about the bend in the pipe causing the hose to get pinched. My solution was to shorted the OE heater hose by 3 inches:

and reroute it under all the other hoses. There is already a slight bend in the OE hose and shortening it brings the bend almost to where the hose bends.

Also, found a one-piece coolant adapter fitting pretty easily on eBay shipped fast from LA:



Purchased here for less cost than the exact same part pictured here.

[Tor]

6. Install a M14x1.5 plug with a 1/2 hose barbed end into....

Trying to dig up the required part in Europe. Would this plug do?



It says the hose connection is 13mm (1/2 inch = 12.7 mm) and the thread is M14x1.5, so I guess that is okay?

But what about the thread length? Is it long enough? And is it sufficient long to clamp the hose? Thanks!

(Bigger pic)

[Guillaume]

Originally Posted by Tor

Trying to dig up the required part in Europe.

I feel your pain.

This would do: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Hos...item19cfca0a46

[ZZT86]

Job Done & by jingo I like !

What's different here? The oil cooler itself is the latest version used in the current 2016 Rex part# 21311AA180 & although angle of exit pipe not perfect it fits fine. D4S is the culprit here.




After some time under the car with plenty of light I realised the VC pipe was to be mounted to the holes where the wiring loom was at, my biggest dilema was that the plastic clip from the top one snapped in it & in the most f$%!* difficult spot ever to access & clean out I eventually succeeded though. I massaged the angle of the VC pipe for some clearance away from the injection cover, could have bent it some more but didn't want to push my luck. Installing the VC pipe was made easier to access by unbolting injector cover & moving it to the back of the engine.




The bottom pipe part# 14050AB090 fits well with the exception of the heater exit which isn't angled well for the BR86 as we all know. I suspect the extra reach on these pipes is because the engine on a WRX/FXT would sit further forward/in front of the axle cos 4WD whereas the BR86 the engine would sit further back closer to the firewall. I chopped some of the heater hose to get a more favourable angle & it works well with an almost perfect fit. To prevent wear from rubbing due to engine movement I installed some KFlex foam tubing to isolate.







For the exit from the engine to the oil cooler I used this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Speedflow...item3f444d890a which is just perfect !






The hose I used from the 1/2" barb was another genuine Subie part# 99078AB490 - yep it's the same hose used to the inlet of the cooler & its virtually perfect in shape/size/angle Access was easy as I removed the bottom radiator hose & that barb was a cinch to install by using a deep socket & ratchet. Sweet.





Used all genuine parts including clips, bolts, hoses & coolant. Burping the system took 2 go's before it was right. I would seriously recommend letting the system cool down overnight & then top up in morning to get the best result.

Oil comes up to temp MUCH quicker which is exactly what I was after. Happy days

[Tor]

Originally Posted by Guillaume

I feel your pain.

This would do: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Hos...item19cfca0a46

Thanks. But meanwhile I also checked the price on the Subaru parts.

Online they came out at 360 something euro. I can imagine it will be even more expensive from a dealer. Plus the fittings, hoses, coolant etc, it will end up at 400+.

For that kind of money I would rather take the Cusco option or a passive cooler. So, thanks again for your help, but I'm out again.

[Guillaume]

Originally Posted by Tor

For that kind of money I would rather take the Cusco option or a passive cooler. So, thanks again for your help, but I'm out again.

Suit yourself. Juste keep in mind that if you order from your local Subaru dealer, there is no shipping fees and no customs. All in all, ordering the Cusco kit from Japan would have been more expensive in my case.

Also, in case of warranty claim on your powertrain (think ignition coil, injector seal, etc.), you're probably gonna have a difficult time explaining what those shiny blue parts are doing there. That was also an important factor for me.