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#239 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
The line you cut into you need two clamps for the tee you install, F92209 is what is listed on the diagram a few pages back, which is part number 805922090. I used the other larger clamps in the first page but they were a tight fit (092315002). So actually I stand corrected, you need an extra one of 805918010 (two for the stock line, one goes on the cooler, other goes on the rubber line that attaches to the hard pipe in front, another for the other side of the hard pipe, then one on the tee). Then you need two of the larger clamps for the tee you run into the line. For the other side of the cooler depending on if you use the hard pipe or not, you are only using one clamp at the cooler, then whatever else you have set up on the other side that goes into the galley plug side. BTW, I have that hard pipe for that side, I didn't use it. If anyone is looking for that pipe. Its the one that runs down by the injector cover near the coil packs. |
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#240 |
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Boosted Noob
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So ...
805918010(Qty:4) - HOSE, CLAMP 092315002(Qty:2) - HOSE, CLAMP ? |
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#241 |
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Senior Member
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Has anyone tried this with the Kraftwerks kit?
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#242 |
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Serial Cone Killer
Join Date: Jul 2013
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I have most of the parts in my possession, I just ordered the barb and adapter as per the OP, however I just chose the silver adapter (there was no black adapter) and the black barb instead.
I am just missing the hoses, the water pipe, and some hose clamps. Slowly but surely I will be doing this mod. I'll look through the thread shortly, but does anyone know how the oem radiator handles extended road trips and spirited driving with the oil cooler system installed?
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Last edited by Turkish; 02-22-2014 at 02:34 PM. |
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#243 |
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Member
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First I wish to congratulate the OP on a wonderful DIY. Great job, but I have a few suggestions:
1. As stated above the DIY doesn't include in the parts list ONE extra clamp you need to clamp the hose onto the barbed fitting. I suggest one of the Subaru 1/2 in heater hose clamp (a double constant tension clamp). I used a Nissan one, very similar. 2. "Some coolant may come out" - that's an understatement. How about "Niagra falls will ensue - look at the parts list, I said 1-2 gallons for a reason, junior". Strongly suggest draining all the coolant before this DIY. I didn't, and mayhem ensued. Also, be sure that you can remove your coolant filler cap before starting. I didn't, and mine is stuck. I still haven't filled it all the way yet, and will likely have to get the dealer to remove it because the plastic fitting it's in seems mighty fragile. Yay - more warranty service! 3. The barbed fitting is incredibly difficult to get to without removing other items. I figure a deep well socket might do the trick, but I didn't have one at the time, so I suggest that whoever else does this get a deep well socket on an extension to put this fitting in. Without it, I had to remove both the lower radiator hose and the adjacent hose to be able to get to it with a wrench - 1/8 turn at a time. Yuck. 4. While we're at it, I'd also make it clear that a 24 mm deep well socket is also REQUIRED to tighten the oil cooler. There is no other way. This isn't a common size that most of us have just laying around. 24mm maybe, but a deep well isn't common for the amateur mechanic. 5. I'd also make it clear that installation of the oil cooler itself can be tricky: A. A couple of mm clockwise rotation and you won't be able to remove your oil cap. Don't ask how I know. B. This cooler was clearly designed to be installed in a horizontal or inverted application. How do I know? If, like me, you don't CAREFULLY make sure the o ring is in the groove before you tighten it down, the ensuing geyser of oil spewing around the oil cooler would impress Old Faithful. I'm still mopping the garage of Redline Oil. The smell is wonderful. It appears that my install was cursed, and I was sent to discover all the pitfalls for the rest of you guys. I hope my additional notes make this gear idea easier for some of you. That's my only consolation right now. Shawn Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#244 | |
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Senior Member
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Thanks for sharing your experience, that sure will avoid some catastrophe when I install mine
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#245 | |
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Member
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Quote:
Shawn |
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#246 | |
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Member
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Quote:
Talked with one of my expert Subaru buddies today. He reminded me of a feature I had seen before - the "double lock" radiator cap. One turn to loosen, then you must push down to rotate it the rest of the way... DOH! I felt so stupid. So, do check that you know how to remove the filler cap before you start this job. Shawn |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to shawnhayes For This Useful Post: | jcw99 (01-17-2015) |
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#247 |
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Senior Member
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Has anyone actually tracked with this mod and a stock or upgraded radiator?
For me there's no point in doing this mod unless it will keep oil and coolant temps down during a 10/10ths 20 min track session.
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2011 BMW M3 (No torque dip)
2013 Subaru BRZ - SOLD - Build Thread |
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#248 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=181 Last edited by Guillaume; 02-25-2014 at 06:01 AM. Reason: typo |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Guillaume For This Useful Post: | Acree (02-25-2014) |
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#249 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
__________________
2011 BMW M3 (No torque dip)
2013 Subaru BRZ - SOLD - Build Thread |
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#250 | |
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Member
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Quote:
Shawn |
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#251 |
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Member
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Great DIY!
On step #5 when the AT cooler plug is removed, what kind of piece is in that spot on an automatic? Would it be possible to get the part off of the automatic and use it instead of making a connector with 2 pieces from jegs? |
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#252 |
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CHECK ENGINE
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You would have to replace the upper oil pan/lower engine block section to be able to have the pipe that comes out of the upper oil pan there on the AT cars. A whole lot of work vs installing a fitting!
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i don't cry about crickets
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| brz, fxt, oil, oil cooler |
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