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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe

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Old 06-14-2012, 11:28 AM   #15
Dadhawk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shizuma View Post
It seems virtually imposible to me, as i'm 5'-8" which while tall for a woman really isn't that tall in general, I would bet almost all the guys driving the car are my height or taller than me, with the seat adjusted for me there is only 1" between the front seat and back seat, too small for anyones legs to fit back there, now I could possibly see if you squish the person in the passanger's seat you could squeeze someone in the back on that side, but the drivers side? I don't see it as possible unless the driver is a really short woman around 5'-0"
I'm 5'7" and have driven the FR-S with MomHawk (5'3") and Son3Hawk(5'10") in the back behind me. My son's head heads the glass, but otherwise was OK for a short trip. He was much more comfortable turned sideways though or sitting behind MomHawk on the passenger side.
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:32 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Laika View Post
I got a friend that was about 220 pounds and 6 foot with another 6 foot guy around 130 pounds behind him.
Damn, how did you manage that, a giant shoe horn? My bestfriend is only 5'-8" and around that same weight and she had to have the seat all the way back just to fit in, and even with it all the way back she wasn't exactly perfectly comfortable in the car. I guess my definition of a useful seat is just different as to me really it has to be a practical useful seat, you get in, you sit down, you have room, to me if it involves squishing people in and some kind of human oragami it's not a useful seat, maybe when I was in my late teens/early 20's I would have thought that was acceptable to call a seat useable, but not now.
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:53 AM   #17
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This guy claims to have gotten 4 "dudes" in the FR-S during his test drive.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shizuma View Post
Damn, how did you manage that, a giant shoe horn? My bestfriend is only 5'-8" and around that same weight and she had to have the seat all the way back just to fit in, and even with it all the way back she wasn't exactly perfectly comfortable in the car. I guess my definition of a useful seat is just different as to me really it has to be a practical useful seat, you get in, you sit down, you have room, to me if it involves squishing people in and some kind of human oragami it's not a useful seat, maybe when I was in my late teens/early 20's I would have thought that was acceptable to call a seat useable, but not now.
If she is 5'8" and had the seat back that far then I would guess she is either 70% leg or had the seat much further back than is really necessary. Most people sit a lot farther back than is needed or even ideal for driving. Sitting closer may feel uncomfortable at first, but it's something that you will quickly adjust to.

Stolen from:http://www.ferrari-talk.com/forums/f...position-2274/
Proper driving position, according to Ralf Schumacher

1. Seat height: as high as possible.
2. Distance from steering wheel: your outstretched arms meet the sides of the wheel at the wrists.
3. Distance to the pedals: with the clutch fully depressed, the knee is still bent.

"A Formula One driver wouldn't be able to drve more than a few hundred yards in the seating position used by most drivers...

...The best seating position for ordinary drivers is not quite as extreme as in motorsport, but the principles are similar...

...A high seating position automatically provides a better all-around view and a better view of the instruments. Of course, there are limits to height adjustment: there should be at least enough room between the ceiling of the car and the top of the driver's head for a clenched fist...

...The angle between the backrest and the seat should be 90-100 degrees, i.e., nearly upright. Most drivers prefer a more shallow position for the backrest, and initially find this most comfortable. That's not ideal, however, because the backrest supports the entire back only when the spinal column keeps its natural shape...

...The headrests are not just there for comfort; they also protect against severe injuries to the neck vertebrae. In a head-on crash, the driver is first preopelled forward, then diagonally backwards and up. Therefore, the top edge of the headrests should be at least level with the top of the head or higher. Whiplash injuries and dangerous injuries to the cervical vertebrae frequently come about because the headrests are set too low..."
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:46 PM   #19
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Well she is a big girl, as in heavy, so it was tight for her.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aethelwulf View Post
1. Seat height: as high as possible.
2. Distance from steering wheel: your outstretched arms meet the sides of the wheel at the wrists.
3. Distance to the pedals: with the clutch fully depressed, the knee is still bent.
That's actually almost exactly how I have my seat adjusted, no clue if my knees are bent with the clutch depressed since it's an automatic, but they are always when pressing the gas/brakes, the steering wheel is exactly that distance away and the seat is almost all the way up height wise.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:04 PM   #20
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Quote:
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This is a real rough image of what i'm thinking of doing, so the top of the box would have a layer for acoustically transparent fabric so the subs wouldn't be visible and the top of the box would be flush with the center hump so the back seat could still fold flat when needed, also I would put speaker grills over the speakers but under the fabric so I can put stuff back there without worrying about damaging the subs.
This sounds like something I would want to do, just to get the car shaking. Although that's if I choose to have a car to be casual vs. track oriented.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:22 PM   #21
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Post pics when you get this project dun! I want to see
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-17 View Post
This sounds like something I would want to do, just to get the car shaking. Although that's if I choose to have a car to be casual vs. track oriented.
Yeah, my car will likely never see a track ever, it's just my daily drive so making sure I shave every pound of weight off the car I can isn't a concern, and no way I could live with the lack of bass in the factory stereo for too long, going from a car with 2 12" subs and 4 6.5" woofers for bass to a car with simply 2 6.5" woofers for bass is painful, the music sounds so lacking and hollow to me, my $40 Skullcandy headphones have more bass sadly :/

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Post pics when you get this project dun! I want to see
Yup, I certainly will once I get everything in
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:28 PM   #23
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Today I finally got a chance to poke around back there and pull the rear seat out which was easy (putting it back in was a bit of a pain though) and it looks like if I go with a fiberglass enclosure I should be able to fit the 12" subs I have in the back there without interfering with folding the rear of the seat to get access into the trunk.
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:32 PM   #24
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the rear seats can be removed in minutes with simple tools. It took us about 5 minutes or less to remove them the first time.
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:40 PM   #25
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the rear seats can be removed in minutes with simple tools. It took us about 5 minutes or less to remove them the first time.
Yeah, it took me more time to find the right size socket to unbolt it than it did to actually take it out, was just a pain getting that back loop to latch back in place when putting it back in.
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:15 AM   #26
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It looks pretty simple..any need to disconnect the battery? I'm not in the mood to get thumped in the back of the head by an airbag while doing it.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:18 AM   #27
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I didn't disconnect the battery when I took one of the seats off, really there should be no reason to have to do so.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:26 AM   #28
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There is no need to disconnect the battery to remove the rear seat bottoms. There are no electrical connectors there for the airbag system - only the fuel pump stuff.

To those who still haven't figured out how to remove the rear seat bottoms, 1x 10mm bolt holds it in place at the forward edge nearest the front seats, and a hook (on the seat cushion) and loop (bracket bolted to the car) system at the trailing edge nearest the trunk for each cushion. Unbolt at the front, push down and pull out at the rear, and presto your seat bottom is out.
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