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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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01-30-2015, 06:57 PM | #15 |
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01-30-2015, 09:30 PM | #16 |
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01-30-2015, 09:55 PM | #17 |
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It's a slow car, what'd you expect?
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01-30-2015, 10:20 PM | #18 |
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If not wanting to effect warranty then lighter wheels / tires (to reduce un-sprung weight), drop in air filter, aluminium drive shaft and change your diff ratio. OFT or a custom tune would also do wonders, but impact on warranty. All said and done though mine is pretty good and seems to be improving as I wind on the km.
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MY15 CWP A/T BRZ | Leather heated seats | STI CAI filter, A/T leather shifter, strut brace, V-brace, draw stiffener, battery tie down, Radiator cap, Oil cap, push start button | TRD door stabilizer | YoSpeed STI console garnish | Pioneer AVIC-F70DAB + Rev-camera, TS-WX710A sub | JL speakers, Amp | TOMS' Clear Brake Lights | Cusco 4.556 FD | Driveshaft Shop aluminum shaft | Tein FlexZ, EDFC AP+GPS | Crawford BPB
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01-30-2015, 11:17 PM | #19 |
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throttle controller http://www.avoturboworld.com/avoshop...2007-p-58.html
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01-31-2015, 12:06 PM | #20 |
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It seems pretty responsive to me.. I have like two days driving the brz and it does not feel slow like many people claims to be. it pulls hard and sound sweet even as stock!
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01-31-2015, 12:14 PM | #21 |
I love my series blue brz
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i think my BRZ low end is pretty responsive and that is what sold me the car. 3k-5k felt pretty pathetic however and that is the famous power dip
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02-02-2015, 02:19 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
Torque is what is dipping, and it only ~15lbf*ft, that is 10%, anyway, in few mouths i should get BRZ and experience terror myself of that famous dip |
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02-02-2015, 02:35 PM | #23 |
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What you could buy that would actually make a difference. All of these combined would basically make a NA short track monster for sure.
1. A tune 2. High quality headers 3. light weight fly wheel 4. Light wheels 5. Light weight drive shaft 6. New rear dif (to shorten the gearing) 7. Throttle controller 8. Light weight crank pulley 9. High quality air filter 10. Clutch adjustment on the manual (feels nice, it helps) 11. larger downpipe/mid pipe (the back end really is all for sound)
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02-02-2015, 02:41 PM | #24 | |
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So saying the HP does not drop, but the torque does is nonsense. It's like those people who say "It's not the volts that gets ya, its the AMPS". |
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02-02-2015, 03:26 PM | #25 | |
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Torque is dipping 10%, so power should dip too, but it stays nearly flat. And yes, only current is killing. two different persons can have different effect on same voltage, but will have same exact effect on same current, due to variations in resistance. |
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02-02-2015, 03:38 PM | #26 |
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Try sprintboostersales.com. Not sure they have an application for the twins. Pretty popular with the R8 crowd.
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02-02-2015, 05:22 PM | #27 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
HP = (Torque X RPM)/5252 If torque dips, so does power (UNLESS you have a corresponding increase in RPM). So IF you change the Torque at a given RPM, you also change the HP. You cannot change one without the other (at a given RPM). But since we are not talking about one point in time (fixed RPM), then saying "dip in torque" is ambiguous. Is it a "reduction of torque at a given RPM" or is it "lower torque through the same RPM range"? or "Torque decreased as RPM increased" which might be a constant HP And as far as the current vs voltage: Current differs from voltage by a constant R. So current and voltage "track together". (they differ by a constant) So I can argue that since the Voltage DRIVES the current, it is the voltage that kills you. OR I can argue that Current is DEPENDENT on Voltage and Resistance So the current kills you. OR I can say that it is your body's resistance that kills you because IT is what lets the current flow. See all three comparisons are meaningless. In truth, it is the POWER that is dissipated across the resistance in your body that kills you. |
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02-05-2015, 01:06 PM | #28 |
Still 17!
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...."It's the watts!" LOL
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