Poll: Rust Proofing - An Analysis by Numbers

[roddy]

I used Rust Check, and had holes drilled, but not in the frame, so I didn't select "holes drilled in my frame".

[Demandred7]

Bought one of the rust inhibitor modules. Time will tell if it really works. Certainly no help for the exhaust (probably due to the rubber isolators).

[Kevstra]

I didn't get it because:

A) I don't drive my BRZ in the winter. That's what beater cars are for.

B) My father's 1972 Datsun 240z is rust free after being a summer car all it's life and they didn't give a rats ass about corrosion in those days, and after over 40 years it's in perfect shape. I feel like the BRZ will only be better.

[Canadian Greg]

I use electronic rust control module. Dealer installed and guaranteed against corrosion for 10 years.

[Burrcold]

Originally Posted by Canadian Greg

I use electronic rust control module. Dealer installed and guaranteed against corrosion for 10 years.

Aww you fell for that snake oil?

[Canadian Greg]

A lot of doubters out there I know...

The science is sound, and oil doesn't really work.

NASA has been using this technology for 40 years.

[davidp]

they put those electronic things on snow plows for decades now and it seems to work

[Burrcold]

There is an absolute difference in the type of module a dealer puts on your car, and the ones used by NASA and Aeromarine applications. Do a little research and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about.

[Rayme]

Originally Posted by Canadian Greg

A lot of doubters out there I know...

The science is sound, and oil doesn't really work.

NASA has been using this technology for 40 years.

I can tell you it clearly didn't work on my friend's mazda 3.

I rust proof my cars myself when I switch the tires to summer, I just use cans of rust check and apply it to all the fasteners and suspension parts under the car, it's mostly to save trouble from future repair/upgrades. New cars are very rust resistant, they take from 5-7 years to start rusting from what I can tell, unless you have a mazda 3 lol.

[tinma]

got mine rustproofed from the dealership....i made a thread about it and how shitty of a job they did lol....basically made my engine bay look terrible

Here is the link to the thread
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=rust+proofing

[Canadian Greg]

True. But the technology is still the same.

Why folks resist these advancements I will never know.

Oiling is cerainly NOT the way to go. Messy, unreliable and no warranties.

[Burrcold]

Originally Posted by Canadian Greg

True. But the technology is still the same.

Why folks resist these advancements I will never know.

Oiling is cerainly NOT the way to go. Messy, unreliable and no warranties.

Because these "advancements" are unfounded and unproven (for automotive use). Sorry, but SNAKE OIL!

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe...article535224/

http://www.wheels.ca/feature/no-evid...ctually-works/

[PMPB]

For those electronic "anti-corrosion" modules to work, they would need to be wired to each portion of the car, especially the metal that is far away from the engine bay.

As you know, electricity will take the shortest circuit it can. If the module is wired from your battery to your frame, and because the frame is grounded to the battery, it will take a very short circuit from the location it's bolted to the frame, back into the battery. There may be a very small portion of the engine bay that is protected against corrosion.

On a boat in the ocean... every part of the hull is connected to the anode ( a huge chunk of sacrificial zinc) by the salt water. Big ships will have these zinc anodes at regular intervals along the hull to ensure coverage.

The premise of the module is not to be sacrificial, but to use a small amount of current to reverse the flow of electrons that naturally try to leave the iron (oxidation) and bond with water.

To do the same in a car, we could either submerse the car in salt water, ensuring that all portions of the car form a circuit with the module, or fusion weld many small insulated wires every couple inches to every body panel or chassis component, and run them all back to the 'module'. This isn't practical of course, and if we tried to increase the current, we'd just short out the electronics, and possible cause over-protection, and just cause oxidation of the lead at the other battery terminal (+ve IIRC).

Salt/water/steel will always form a local circuit, which is why galvanizing steel is the only way to protect it, in an air environment. Galvanizing is a sacrificial zing layer, than can help protect steel for many years, even if the galvanizing layer is cracked.

[LDN2012]

Didn't rust proof as I'm leasing and I'll get the car washed once every two weeks during the winter to get the salt off (underbody as well).